hey... Been getting going on coyotes and landboard lately on wet oceanside semihardpack sand, and had a few goes at keeping my bearings clean and
lubed.
I'm currently removing the bearing rings (the skinny washer-like things that cover the bearing race - rubber with wire support, they pop off with a
knifepoint), cleaning and scrubbing with WD40, then repacking. I used to run light oil just because the bearings ran smooth on that, but it doesn't
offer any protection. I'm currently repacking half with plain grease and another half with some "advanced ceramic lubricant" I got at a bike shop,
looks like vaseline.
But Question #1: How do i pop off metal bearing race covers? It looks like i would ruin it if I use a knife... Most of my land board bearings have
the black rubber covers, but all my coyote bearings have those metal covers, so currently I can only spray WD40 into them, which is almost useless in
the long term.
And Question #2: Am I doing the right thing with the cleaning and repacking?
I pack them full, is this best? This makes them rotate slower after the packing, but they run alright on the board.
Currently I can get used bearings from a recycler for about 20 cents each, but once I get the bearing maintenance sorted I'd like to get new ones and
run them proper...Kamikuza - 12-7-2011 at 01:30 AM
When I was bothered with it, I'd wash the bearings in citrus bearing cleaner then use bearing oil :D
WD40 .... Water Displacement formula 40, is it not? Not really a lube ... I wouldn't do grease cos that'll keep the grit in there and make a nice
grinding paste :o
On my hockey skates I use light oil from a spray can or teflon spray, silicon spray etc if I have it around ... I really don't care cos we don't play
a speed game
Some bearings you can't get into so don't try ... wash them out in a little tub of kerosine or some solvent like that to get the gunk out, then squirt
some lube in the seam and give them a spin then stop worrying.
Consider bearings to be consumable item like sunblock :ocsa_deadon - 12-7-2011 at 01:45 AM
Kami hit that one dead on. Some bearings are sealed and not meant to be cleaned and re-packed.
I've been using AMSOIL Synthetic Water Resistant Grease.
Just hose the wheels down after a day at the beach and all is good.
Mind you, living at the beach, salt water can play havoc on bearings even with a marine grade lube. I tear mine down every year and repack. May be
over kill but my wheels are still spinning.furbowski - 12-7-2011 at 01:55 AM
Quote:
Originally posted by csa_deadon
Mind you, living at the beach, salt water can play havoc on bearings even with a marine grade lube. I tear mine down every year and repack. May be
over kill but my wheels are still spinning.
Yeah, my situation too... So far a fresh-water rinse hasn't cut it, my bearing last one to three sessions before they seize up and require a full
clean and repack. I can get some function back with the WD40, but kerosene and light oil every session my be a way to go...
Consumable, eh? Yuck... But at 20 cents each from the recycler dude's little shack up on Canton road, at least they ain't gonna break the bank.indigo_wolf - 12-7-2011 at 03:17 AM
Bearings with metal side plates are generally single or double sealed and not meant to be broken down/repacked. Single use only. The bearing id is
sometimes stamped on them, if so, you can verify the details for your particular set.
The single or double seal is meant to keep out debris/foreign matter and the bearings are packed with a special grease meant not to break down over
the life of the bearing.
If you run in an environment where there is material that gets past the seals, it's a done deal.... a shotgun marriage from hell... bearings and
debris are joined until death or mechanical seizure puts an end to the party.
ATB,
Samgreasehopper - 12-7-2011 at 04:42 AM
Hre's a little cheat sheet on seal types and an explanation of their properties.
That aughta clear it up a bit...PHREERIDER - 12-7-2011 at 05:13 AM
metal shielded...i use to soak in mineral spirits in a sonic cleaner and air spin with a drop of oil. def a scavenging step and will extend life.
for the coyotes no water! no grease! a tiny bit of oil if too crunchy and then its over when it gets sloppy.
THE MOST IMPORTANT factor keep then dry! NO water! after they truly get wet its over parts too small to be stretched out. basically disposable.
roughly 2-300hours thats alot of boot time!
like inline skates keep them dry an it won't be an issue. i think they are standard 608 common inline size, not the minis , not the micro minis. SS
sealed offer best tolerance if splashed, regular will go down fast. tiny drop oil if needed.
oil/grease are best friends with sand/dirt. less is more with small bearings.Kamikuza - 12-7-2011 at 05:22 AM
20 cents a bearing may have something to do with the diminished life experience
just maybe though ... I'm pretty sure there's no reason why they should be $10 each :o
I remember back in the day when ABEC-5 bearings where something to be worshipped :D we were checking out the dump for washing machines, trying to
snarf those bearings cos they designed for several hundred of thousand RPM ... or so we believed furbowski - 12-7-2011 at 07:15 PM
@grease hopper... Yep that did, glad I can get 'em cheap!sigma - 13-7-2011 at 01:43 AM
I invested in stainless steal bearings, seem to be holding up better not just because of the alloy but the seals are higher grade. By them from an
industrial supplier not a sports outlet.
I use Phil Wood's waterproof grease however lots of cheaper marine greases are probably the same thing, the more complex grades have increased flow
when heated through movement so dont panic about viscosity.
