robinsonpr - 6-2-2015 at 09:56 AM
So I normally hot launch my Peak directly downwind (I'm talking on grass here, not snow). I've mainly been flying it in light winds so don't even
need to weigh it down prior to launching it, and it's fine to launch straight up through the power in those winds.
But, in higher winds (>15mph) I've had some hairy experiences, leading to a couple of questions....
1. How to best secure the kite on grass for a direct downwind launch? I've got a couple of sandbags and I had one on each side of the
kite about 6 inches from the wingtips. In spite of making sure no bridles were obstructed by the sandbags, when I launched somehow one of the bottom
bridles snagged a sandbag and it caused the kite to flip and I had to reset everything again.
2. How to do a edge of window launch? I'd much rather not hot launch directly downwind if it's above 15mph, I've been taken on a
couple of unwelcome scuds doing that. I know how to launch an arc at the side of the window but how do I do that with the Peak? Ie: where should I
position the kite? Where and how to secure the kite? How to ensure bridles don't get fouled? etc...?
Appreciate any tips!!
Demoknight - 6-2-2015 at 11:15 AM
You side launch pretty much every kite the same way you do an arc. Put a little sand bag on the upwind tip so that it can't tangle in the bridle,
then walk back slowly with the bar at a 45 degree angle until the downwind tip starts to rise. Keep walking back and if you do it right, the kite
will start to stand up and you won't have the sudden shock. It should lift up into the air and settle pretty close to where it sat on the ground,
ready for you to have your way with it!
Feyd - 6-2-2015 at 03:49 PM
Don't fight the kite. The Peak can be hot launched in some pretty stout winds , definitely >15kts if you leave the bar out and let the kite take
you until it's at the zenith. It's a total commitment move but relatively mundane when you get used to it and if you don't fight the kite. There is
nothing wrong with scudding, sliding or walking downwind 20 feet as the kite launches. It reduces the kites power considerably, gets the kite up and
the rider out of the launch area fast with out the risk of things going bad do to a shift in the wind window.
The 45 degree angle launch only works if the wind direction is constant and IMO and frankly out of date given the amount of depower a kite like the
Peak has to offer.
Follow the video link.
At 00:26 Peak 6m hot launch in 20kts. The footage is real time, not sped up. You see how fast the kite goes into the air but pay close attention to
how I move. I simply go downwind until it's at the zenith then turn my skis and put the kite into a power stroke.
http://youtu.be/ziI6hs1co48
robinsonpr - 6-2-2015 at 04:10 PM
Thanks for the tips guys! I'll stick with the hot launch a few more times and try going with the kite rather than trying to hold my ground. And if
it's nuking steady I can give the arc style 45 degree launch a go!
What about securing the kite on grass prior to hot launch? And tricks for sandbag placement? And how many to use?
4w7s - 6-2-2015 at 05:56 PM
In light winds I usuallly hot launch the larger Peaks wihtout an worries, but obviously you want to use the 4m in stronger winds and hot-launching can
add some stress factor.
I usually weigh one wing tip down, make sure the bridles and lines are laid out carefully to the side and not fouled, then I walk the lines out while
walking a bit upwind, and slightly to the side.. Then when I am ready to launch ( I usually like to put my skis on first) I move to approx 45 degress
upwind position of the kite and then start slowly putting some tension on the lines. when you see the wing taking a shape a little you might have to
adjust your position slightly to get the kite to fill nicely, and this can vary slightly depending on wind conditions. If you stand too far upwind and
tension the lines the kite will want to rotate/flip forward.. and if you are too far downwind the kite will not fill with enough air to form the
wind..so you have to find the sweet spot. After a few times/different wind speeds you it will be more intuitive.
Feyd - 6-2-2015 at 09:54 PM
If you don't anchor the brake lines then obviously you have to weight the wing. I like simple. 3 weights, one for each tip and one for the center. 5
lb weights in my sand bags works well for me. Just be sure the bridles are clear for when you launch and no problem.
But I always opt for brake stall/anchor than hauling weights. :D
robinsonpr - 6-2-2015 at 11:40 PM
Feyd can you explain a good way to anchor the brakes on the Peak? I know you use ice screw (which I won't be able to do being on grass) but maybe I
can use a decent ground stake.
How do you actually secure the brake lines to the anchor so they are easy to release when you are ready to launch? And what about the bar and
chicken loop, is that just left free?
Do you still use that technique in deeper snow and you can't use an ice screw?
robinsonpr - 8-2-2015 at 01:31 AM
Actually as well as wondering how to secure the brakes.... How do you set the kite up in stronger winds without weights?
I inevitably find that when I unpack the kite that sometimes the bridles need to be untwisted. Not a mess, but maybe just the Z bridle has gone
around the others. And frequently I find that when I walk the lines from the kite to the bar I find the bar has to be rotated at least once to get
the twists out.
So how to get the lines and bridles all squared for launch with no weights??
Feyd - 8-2-2015 at 06:01 AM
If you aren't on ice where you can use a screw and you aren't on frozen ground you can use a cork screw style anchor. Often kite stakes, like the big
honking lawn dart style Ozone makes, will work but we like the screw in variety for added security.
If you are still running the peak without any added brake line crossover handle what I do is pull the brake lines in, both left and right and larks
head the leader lines to my carabinier on my anchor be it a screw in or ice screw.
The brake lines should be sufficient for keeping the kite in place while you check the bridles. Especially with the Peak 1. Unless you have really
shifty winds.
robinsonpr - 8-2-2015 at 06:56 AM
Gotcha, thanks!!!
Bladerunner - 8-2-2015 at 08:56 AM
To avoid bridle tangle Fold the edge , or wingtip on top of itself and put your weight on top. In theory this pops your weight away from trouble.
Whenever in doubt side launch is the safest way to go. Perfect it and it's not only easy but looks cool to outsiders.
I simply do a single loop around my screw or stake with the brake lines and set the bar behind with safety attached. Safety to a separate screw is
actually best. ( but I rarely do ) Kite stakes come in a variety that are made from metal spikes. They pound into hard earth. You can make a simple
one with a long spike from the hardware store and a golf ball.
I never have to create an anchor point on deep snowy fields. 
I have my buggy tow rope and a carabiner to wrap around a heavy object as a method of anchoring in the bag though. :smug:
Feyd - 9-2-2015 at 07:31 AM
Depending on the snow conditions, using a dead man or fluke works really well.
https://vimeo.com/63963124
In the super dry powder we have now you would use multiples as the dry snow isn't super secure. They work best in heavier or wet snow.
robinsonpr - 10-2-2015 at 03:58 AM
I tried Feyd's suggestion of larksheading the brake leaders to the ground stake yesterday. Worked a treat!
Feyd - 10-2-2015 at 05:42 AM
Glad it works for ya.
I almost forgot, if using a temporary anchor in snow, assuming the snow is deep enough, driving a ski down works very well also. Then just pull it,
hold the brakes and step in.