OffAxis Oblique Buggy Build

I've been getting the itch to join you awesome folks at WBB and should probably get my self a buggy before that event. As I researched my options, I can't believe how expensive a simple buggy chassis is. So I've started working on designing my own kite buggy and want to get input before I dive into fabrication. Admittedly, it is a clone of the PL Classic buggy that I found on popeyethewelder's site. I need all of your experiences to help me make this into a nice affordable starter buggy.

My goals for the buggy are as follows:

Keep cost down: I think I can fabricate something sweet for less then they can be purchased
Sturdy frame but not crazy heavy and overbuilt: I'll use tubing sizes that are available in my areas.
Stainless or Steel: Probably steel to start, but will price out stainless option for comparison.
Seat: Find a seat that fits or make my own.
Other things: hitch plate to attach a second buggy, make a ski option for winter time, other hard mount points for accessories, splash guard option, seat belt option.

Ultimately I would like to make this buggy available to the community as a dependable budget buggy allowing more people to get into kite by bringing down the barrier to entry. The plans and info will be open source. If there is enough interest I could make the buggy available for sale. I envision that they could be sold either DIY weld kit or finished product.

Things on my list to do:
Finalize the frame shape design
Design front spindle and fork
Design rear axle inserts
Build a BOM
Source tires and rim options
Get quotes for all parts from local metal shops
Get pricing for everything else
Build first buggy
Test it out at WBB!!!
Kite Buggy!
Design Skis for winter

Current Frame Tubing Sizes:
Rear Axle: 1-1/2" x .083" X 37.5"
Rear Axle Sockets: 1-1/4" x .083" x 5" qty. 2
Rear Axle Threaded Inserts: Custom 20mm threaded inserts similiar to 1.5"x.120" x 3/4"-16 Threaded Insert
Rear Bearing Spacer: 21.25mm ID X 25.75OD X 47mm Long
Wheel Bearing: 6204-2RS Precision Sealed Bearing 20mmID x 47mmOD x 14mm Wide
Rear Axle Bolt: M20x120mm with Theads to match axle insert
Seat Side Frame: 1" x .083"/.120" x 35" Left and Right
Down Tube: 1-3/8" x .083" x 20"
Clamps halves: Flat Laser cut plate
Front Spindle" TBD
Rear

Tires: Barrow Wheels or Midis. I'm probably going with Midi. Don't use steel barrow rims. Purchase the proper PeterLynn Plastic rims, they are not that expensive and work great.

Let me know what you think!





I love my local hardware store:

Quote: Originally posted by ssayre

blitzhound, no one here is against someone building their own buggy, but the reality is you don't save any money by building one. I think they were just pointing that out.

Having now built 5 you are dead right. It is only that you have a buggy that meets your needs exactly (or can be further modified to do so) Get a kick out of riding something you have designed and built yourself. The time taken to build them easily exceeds the purchase cost of a production model if you took labour costs into account.

Quote: Originally posted by OffAxis

Well this wasn't quite to feedback I was expecting. Regardless, I'm still interested in features or designs of buggies that you guys like. Also it was mentioned that weight distribution, rake and trail are important. Any input on those parameters?

I can't help on those, but I'd definitely recommend talking to Popeye/looking up his stuff, as he experimented a lot on those.

One point to keep in mind for designing will be planned wheels/tires and compatibility for them. I own a Sysmic S2 and it's the generation before they redesigned the front to fit a proper large wheel (either tall disc or balloon for the beach). These can also have some affect on the steering and affects from the other. I have two extra sets of wheels for mine currently, a set of midis (it came with), a set of smaller motorcycle wheels that I can run all 3 wheels on for lower traction since my usual surfaces I don't sink in on (and were picked up cheap, for when I don't want to deal with handling issue from the last), and lastly a set of wheels just for the back that are super light motorcycle wheels that are extra tall. Reason for those is I wanted easy extra ride height for the easiest to get to field, so I could keep my seat low slung, without the occasional hitting bottom on the rough grass spots/transitions for where I get out most. I can't fit the same size wheel in front, so it handles a bit differently different size wheels (significantly) for the front and two rears.

I'm excited to see where this goes. I was planning on welding up my own buggy and trying out a few ideas, not sure how much I'd save over a used one, but I enjoy fabricating and the experience would be worthwhile, but then I moved rental houses, and none of the outlets in my garage will support my welder (they all trip, despite claiming to be their own 20 amp service and my welder not drawing that much), so I bought a used one here, which will probably last a lifetime, and the build will wait until I decide I want a dedicated freestyle or my wife wants her own and not just the adjustments I made to mine for her to fit.

Taper bearings would take the axial loading much better then a standard ball bearing. But I think this bearing should be fine: http://www.bmikarts.com/Flanged-High-Speed-Wheel-Bearing-34-...

I also think it is the same bearing hanging on the shelf at the hardware store:


It should fit into the hubs of those steel rims.

I'm beginning to find that i cannot find a precision sealed ball bearing with a 3/4"ID and 1-3/8"OD. See the note found in this product listing: http://www.azusaparts.com/ProductPage.aspx?catID=8&subCa...

If I reduce the axle shaft size to 5/8" it opens up options to having premium seals bearings with 1-3/8"OD.


This is the only one I could find in the 3/4"x1-3/8" sealed bearing size.

I was thinking of using these wheelbarrow rims. But might purchase the PL plastic rims because the price is very similar.

These are the bearings that are compatible with the wheelbarrow rims:


I have watched the popeye video and plan on doing the same. It will look something like this:

Quote: Originally posted by OffAxis

I have a feeling Flexifoil and PeterLynn concluded that using a bolt bearing spacer was the most economical choice while maintaining effectiveness. I'm also going to assume during their testing, they have determined that a left hand threaded bolt is not required and using thread tape or lock tight is sufficient to prevent the bolt coming loose.

It's been interesting watching this thread progress.
I am about the least technical person on this board. I want to get in a basic buggy, and get down the beach, and back, with as little risk as possible.
I have a stock PL XR+ and have never had an issue with the axel bolts (20mm) coming loose - no tape or loctite. Like you, I can only imagine that if they're selling it that way, it's probably for a good reason (even if it is just plain old economics).
Now, I have had an issue with the stainless bolts on the side rails seizing, but then I learned about anti-seize, and life was good again.
I look forward to seeing your buggy - custom, stock, or otherwise - at WBB.

Quote: Originally posted by OffAxis

Quote: There is always 20mm round bar ,then weld a short 3/8 bolt on the end and use a locknut and washer to keep the wheel on. That is my current setup . Works great! Not cheap though.... http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=22286&step=... How do you set your end play on the bearings with this method? Or do you just get it close and let the bearings walk. I guess you could stack shims/spacers/washers and get it to tighten down to lock the inner races in place. With a bolt method and proper spacers between the bearings, you can tighten down on the inner races and lock them into position. But then a Left Hand threaded bolt should be considered for the rear right wheel. Thoughts? I have a feeling Flexifoil and PeterLynn concluded that using a bolt bearing spacer was the most economical choice while maintaining effectiveness. I'm also going to assume during their testing, they have determined that a left hand threaded bolt is not required and using thread tape or lock tight is sufficient to prevent the bolt coming loose.

You just cut it to size and use a washer with a nylock nut, right hand on both is fine. In 10 yrs. I have only lost one wheel. A steel one like in your pic.... Weld cracked on the hub and the whole wheel came off.Luckily it was the upwind rear so nothing bad happened.

In terms of wheels, I picked up fairly cheap from CL a set of motorcycle wheels (two actually). Total paid for both (one set of two front GSXR wheels with tires, one set of two rear and one front steel spoked wheels) was around $120. Another $20 was spend on bearings/pipe to cut spacers for all the wheels. Ironically the Spoked wheels came with 15mm bearings, but I needed 20mm (and they were old/rusted/groady), one GSXR wheel came in 21mm and one in 23mm.

Fairly cheap overall for wheels that'll last me, and look good. The spoked ones still look a little rough, I'm slowly getting the steel wool to them to get them looking shiny again. The others are gorgeous in my eyes. Nice and tall (and narrow enough) for back wheels for the grass fields with too many divots/empty dirt lots so I don't bottom out like I occasionally did on my stock wheels. Weight is a bit higher than some would want, but I'm not trying to freestyle with them anyway and don't have a very light buggy.

Can anyone confirm that the spacer length is correct. I do not have a PL Rim to measure the distance between the inside of the bearings.

Both options, I think need some type of spacer or washer between the bolt or nut to not pinch the bearing seal. But it looks like the PL and Flexi buggies don't have anything.

Option 1:


Option 2:

You are waaaayyyyy overthinking this. Sideloading isn't an issue.If you get pulled sideways too hard , you just sideslip a bit. And in10 yrs.,I haven't heard of a bearing causing a wheel to come off.

Quote: Originally posted by OffAxis

Can anyone confirm that PL or Flexi does not use a shim between the bolt head and the bearing on the rear axle?

Yes.
Outside to inside: bolt head, bearing, spacer, bearing, axel. (If you make it to the other end of the axel, reverse the order ) No other metal, just the wheel and tire (and a little anti-seize on the 20mm bolt).

Quote:

Yes. Outside to inside: bolt head, bearing, spacer, bearing, axel. (If you make it to the other end of the axel, reverse the order ) No other metal, just the wheel and tire (and a little anti-seize on the 20mm bolt).

Perfect, Thanks.

The Master's Degree in Counseling I just earned tells me that you are more interested in us confirming what you already think is right (in spite of it being excessive and/or not so right) because like many young people, you appear to be convinced that your education supersedes the experience of the great many people from who you are seeking advice.

My experience in rebuilding and modifying my own buggy tells me that you are really making this much much much too complicated in almost all aspects. Listen, I'm (like BigKid) not trying to be a jerk, but you would do much better to actually listen to the advice (which you posted here seeking!) than to be convinced of your right-ness... its called humble pie,... eat some.

I WILL agree with you on the point of axle bolt size being changeable with the ID of the inner race of the bearing. I use bearings with an OD that fits the standard PL hub (which I use) and a 3/4" ID and a 3/4" Grade 8 bolt. My wheels bolt through a 1/2" thick plate on either end of the axle and are held in place with a spacer between the wheel and the plate all held on with Nyloc's... VTT style, ...IMHO, it is the absolute most simple solution to the bolting the wheels on question:

Information for future reference.

Information for future reference.

Quote: Originally posted by abkayak

soliver, that looks way faster than a 28.5mph bug...even on the bench

... Thanks! it sure feels faster!!! and it sure does hold me in when my "Glorified beds sheets" get a little twitchy. I've redone so much of it that that I'm probably responsible for 80% of it myself... following Van's model of course!

Quote: Originally posted by OffAxis

Well this wasn't quite to feedback I was expecting. Regardless, I'm still interested in features or designs of buggies that you guys like. Also it was mentioned that weight distribution, rake and trail are important. Any input on those parameters?

Hey...

I am way late into this but...

As someone who has made their own buggy I will add what I learned.

PL and flexi geometry is good for one specific adjustment. As soon as you adjust the down tube length the geometry changes. That is why many others don't clamp the down tube as much of an angle at all.

Their seats are not deep enough for good bracing for the side pull.

Don't worry about wheels so much. There have been good ideas on attaching different wheels. Bottom line is if the spacer in the hub is good, nothing else really matters. I prefer my wheels to be tight! The proper sized spacer in the hub means you can torque up the bolts and you are not side loading the bearings. If you look at the shoulder on the nuts and bolts, you will see why a spacer is not needed. Nice bit of built in space like they were made just for us so bearings can run free!

Rake and trail will depend on the kind of buggy you are trying to build... Small sporty unit or an all out race machine will be different.

Look at what has been used previously and start there. Make changes and then... make more changes till you are happy.

Ron

I'm slowly constructing the 3d model. Mocked up the front fork finally. I've also been digging around the internet for a supplier that can bend and flatten tube just to see what their price would come in at.

I adjusted the front fork to fit these tire sizes.

Tire Sizes:
Standard Ribbed and Smoothie tires: 4" wide x 16" tall x 8" wheel.
Wide Tires: 6" wide x 16" tall x 8" wheel.
Big Foot Tires: 6" wide x 21" tall x 8" wheel.

The clear green wheel is the big foot tires. The gray wheel is a midi wheel.

It would be best to get hold of some wheels with tyres to see the different sizes,
The midi is considerably larger than the barrow wheel. and the bigfoot is very much larger than the midi.

Here is a photo of my midi next to a bigfoot, i will be able to measure them properly if you wish.



From the looks of your buggy, it seems you are copying a peter lynn buggy. i own one, and i find the seats are not supportive enough, and way to shallow, There is no back support in them.
and your legs are typically up around your ears in them.

Have you had much experience riding in a buggy for long periods of time ?

In the PL (and flexi) low rails make it difficult to hold power down against those low rails. This kind of buggy is fine for cruising and fields. but for long rides it can become quite uncomfortable.

Higher (longer) side rails for a deeper seat, swan neck vs downtube for better rider position, and definitely some kind of backrest.

The european buggies are built much longer and the rider sits lower to the ground with side rails up under the armpits further,
this allows you to hold more power and a more secure ride.

sorry i can't explain it better, i am just not got at 'words'

Peter lynn, good for a giggle in the park, but lower, longer, wider for the reel cruiser feeling. a buggy you are sitting 'in' rather than 'on'

i figure if you are going to go to all the trouble of making your own, make it a good one :) and not just another PL/flexi clone

good luck with your build :)

Quote: Originally posted by igeighty

It would be best to get hold of some wheels with tyres to see the different sizes, The midi is considerably larger than the barrow wheel. and the bigfoot is very much larger than the midi. Here is a photo of my midi next to a bigfoot, i will be able to measure them properly if you wish. From the looks of your buggy, it seems you are copying a peter lynn buggy. i own one, and i find the seats are not supportive enough, and way to shallow, There is no back support in them. and your legs are typically up around your ears in them. Have you had much experience riding in a buggy for long periods of time ? In the PL (and flexi) low rails make it difficult to hold power down against those low rails. This kind of buggy is fine for cruising and fields. but for long rides it can become quite uncomfortable. Higher (longer) side rails for a deeper seat, swan neck vs downtube for better rider position, and definitely some kind of backrest. The european buggies are built much longer and the rider sits lower to the ground with side rails up under the armpits further, this allows you to hold more power and a more secure ride. sorry i can't explain it better, i am just not got at 'words' Peter lynn, good for a giggle in the park, but lower, longer, wider for the reel cruiser feeling. a buggy you are sitting 'in' rather than 'on' i figure if you are going to go to all the trouble of making your own, make it a good one and not just another PL/flexi clone good luck with your build

i80 nailed it. Many of us own PL buggies and pretty much wish we didn't. I've gotten part way towards what i80 is very correctly referring to with a VTT rail and seat upgrade kit for my otherwise stock PL Bigfoot+. Well not quite stock as I did upgrade to Sysmic rims and new tires that I bought from the venerable Utahtami (speed demon extraordinaire), but the wheels were a pure pimp-my-ride upgrade and had nothing to do with form or function. I've thought long and hard about upgrading to a swan neck front end and may pull that trigger someday for the functional reasons noted by i80.

Memory serves that early on in this thread it was suggested that you contact Van for insight as he went through an evolution of sorts along exactly these lines. Having gotten to know him a bit over the past year I too can join the long and distinguished list of folks that are very glad they know Van. Dude knows his stuff and you would be well served to reach out to him in the event you haven't already done so. At the very least, consider working towards designs more akin to his buggies than standard PL or Flexi styles.

Please trust what you are hearing; the sitting "in" versus "on" stuff is real. The side pull you experience for long periods of time such as during beach runs or long shots on dry lake beds really put a strain on your body after a while. Why go to all the trouble of a build and then a long ride only to be unnecessarily uncomfortable?

I've enjoyed this thread from afar. I hope your build goes well. This does look like a fun project! Good luck.

Has any every tried making a hammock style seat? Thoughts?

Hi Offaxis

The large wheel is a Kenda beach racer 21x12-8 on a Sysmic 8x4 inch alloy rim.
The wheel next to it is a Kenda Midi Tire 16x6.5-8 on a Peter Lynn 8x2.5 inch rim.

I started life in 1995 on a Peter Lynn Mk1. It was a tiny thing with a webbing seat, i would always get mushed up bluebottles spraying of the front wheel on my balls with the webbing seat. It was a great little buggy. but at the time there were not any other designs out there.

After a break i returned to kiting and bought a Peter Lynn Comp XR+ (pictured below) just because it was what i knew. but being nearly 20 years older i found it had no back support and i always felt like a hunchback riding it. although an improvement over the mk1, it still felt like i was sitting 'on' it rather than in it with my knees around my ears.

I then bought a GT race buggy after sitting in some of the other guys bigger buggies that where so much more comfortable. There are a few peter lynn's down under. However most guys have bigger buggies.

Peter Lynn comp xr+ with larger front fork. and midi wheels


Front to back,, my GT-Rapide++ (beach racers) Roblukins GT-Radical (midi wheels), john holgate's libra vmax (beach racers)


GT-Race rapid ++ with beach racers


Notice the low sitting position with straighter legs ?


Johns Vmax,it has a very low body centre, much more comfortable for long rides. He uses beach racers and midi's depending on the surface. Robs radical is essentially a smaller GT-Rapide, same thing, low body centre, very stable, very comfy. He is usually first on the beach and last off. (most of the time the quickest)

There are many many different designs out there. But i my opinion (others may not agree) i feel you dont need to 'race' in a race buggy, but they make VERY good cruisers with a deep seat, good back support and longer distance to the pegs via the swan neck. the tradeoff is that they are inherently larger. I used to get very exhausted in the peter lynn, but in the GT i can ride it all day and still much it up the sand dunes at the end of the day.

Sysmic made a great buggy that was not as large as a racer, the S1. it maintained the low centre of gravity and length, while still keeping it relatively small. A fellow we buggy with, Michael has one, as it is a real rocket.



I love my peter lynn, don't get me wrong. I think they are a great buggy for ratting around a park or oval and before getting my bum into Clives libra majestic, i would never have known the difference. however once i did park my ass in race buggy. i was amazed at the difference in the comfort, not to mention the control. and how much extra speed i can hold down. I'm not sure i could go back 60 kph in a peter lynn is a bit of a brown pants moment, but 60 in a larger race buggy just feels good.

As for your hammock seat design, peter lynn and flexi used to do this method, as did land lizard and other 'vintage' bugs. Its what we had back in the day. Everyone had seats made of webbing, but they are a bit sketchy when compared to a fully protected nut sack in a nice firm cordura seat

Deep seating position with firm back support is fantastic. unfortunately my peter lynn even with its newer style seat just doesn't give me that support. Nearly all the guys who have one extend the side rails and make back rests. and for the cost of a peter lynn or flexi or zebra, a few extra dollars gets you a lower sleeker and more comfy ride.

Get your ass parked into as many different buggies as you can, and you will see the pro's and cons of the many different designs.

If i was welding my own, it would definitely be something more 'race'

good luck with it man. i am envious of anyone who has the smarts to build there own

regards.
Doug

I have the xr and with a simple backrest its very comfortable. I'm only 5'9". I would not recommend it to anyone taller than that. I agree, in it's stock form it's barely usable, but with a couple simple mods it's very comfortable as long as your short.

Save whatever money you have for the build and make sure you get to WBB!

There will be all sorts of buggy designs there to pull inspiration from. Like the RC group you will be among friends who want to share what they know and encourage you. Or at least send you home on a more clear path.

You have never really replied to what you have for pilot skills and kites? 90% of this game is kite control. An engineering degree ( or even pilots licence ) can't give you that.

Notice how even Van suggests that you are better off getting a basic starter buggy and building from there. If you listen to ANYBODY, listen to Van. He has been through exactly what you are trying to do.

Design reboot....

Welp, after busting out a rim on my kite trike I've decided to rework the design and get more serious about building a better buggy. The kite trike will then hitch as a tandem to this buggy when needed. Here's what I've come up with for general shape and fit. My wife laughed at me sitting on the floor measuring out what I think would be ideal buggy size for me.

Here are the specs:
Me: 5'10", 175lbs, 32in waist, ~38in chest.

Oh, you were expecting buggy specs...:

Material: Plain Carbon Steel
Tires: Midi (16/6.5-8) or Barrow wheels
Axle Dia.: 20mm all around
Length (Axle to axle): 66in. max, 51in min.
Axle Width: 57.5in.
Trail: 2in, 3.125in, or 3.9in
Head Angle: 65deg
Seat Back Angle: 60deg
Seat Base Angle: 15deg
Rear Axle Tube Dia.: 1.5in sch40 pipe
Seat Frame Tube Dia.: 1_1/4in sch40 pipe
Fork Width: 8.7in
Fork Tube size: 1in sch40 pipe
Neck Tube size: 2.5in sq. x .120in tube
Sheet metal parts: .250in or .3125in
Frame Weight: ~65lbs
Est. Total Weight: 100-110lbs

Rear axle adjustment length: 7in, 1 in increments
Neck Adjustment length: 8in
Seat position from front axle: 41in max, 33in min
Seat position from rear: 25in max, 18in min
Seat Clearance height: 7in
Seat Back height: 15in
Seat Width: 16.5in
Seat bottom length (back rest to clamp): 16in
Foot peg height: 8.9in to 11.8 from ground.

Comments: I won't always be riding on a beach, so I think a good amount of ground clearance is better. Maybe I should add some fork angle adjustment into the clamp design. I need to clean up the fork design and decide on a the fork bearing setup yet. Also need to add hitch point to the rear axle.


The lines shown in the picture represent the seat and body position at max chassis length.


Question to you all: How much adjustment is necessary to be able to dial in the buggy to achieve the proper tow point. The neck adjustment allows for setting the proper length between the seat and pegs, which also messes with your Center of gravity and tow point. To compensate for this change I've added the feature of being able to slide the axle forwards or back to help compensate for setting proper center of gravity and tow point. Is this feature necessary? I fully expect that once the buggy sets off on the maiden voyage, the neck and axle location would be adjusted as necessary then probably never adjusted again.

I have the seat 3in in front of the centroid of the triangle formed by the tires. The centroid should be close to the center of gravity of the buggy. From my reading, people recommend the back tires breaking loose first, so I bumped the seat forward a bit to keep the weight a bit forward. Let me know if this is bogus thinking and the seat should be located near the midpoint between the front and rear axle.

Let me know what you guys think.

Quote: Originally posted by Zipzit

OffAxis, Nicely done. I'm way curious, as I'm thinking of following along in your footsteps. I used to be an automotive design engineer, I'm a decent TIG welder, have tools and access to some decent tools, including high powered hydraulic tubing bender with complete set of mandrels. Unfortunately I'm a kite cart newbee, and I don't know a soul around here who has a cart that I might try. I've still got a lot of kite control (learning) work to do. At the same time somebody offered me up a set of 3 small trailer wheels (4 stud on 4" radius), with two hubs. A hub for the front runs around $47 for sealed tapered bearing setup, from our friends in Azusa, CA. Been looking closely at your content here. I'm really curious to know how those trail numbers work out for you. In fact I have one tool that might be of interest to you (and anybody else here). I spent a whole lot of time looking at custom bicycle and other related frame designs. I rewrote software to do all sorts of tubing miter work. Its online and free, includes simple miters, decorative sleeving, Seat Tube to Seat Stays joint, round to tapered, oval to round, engine exhaust collectors, airframe cluster joints, etc... Hosted on my site, all my work, feel free to use. The software generates full size paper templates. Cut on the line, wrap the tube, use a felt tip pen to mark the cut boundary, throw it into a vise and cut away. I've also included reference markings to make component lengths perfect. Click here for the TubeNotcher software Code is currently written in JavaScript, so it runs right in the browser, creates full size templates on paper (including large diameter tubing). Nothing to download beyond Adobe Acrobat Reader. Possible to get a copy of your solidworks model in exchange? I suspect I will want less ground clearance than you, (I'm only on a dry lake bed, and its way flat...) and I certainly have to accommodate my oddball little trailer wheels, but a model like yours would be a place to start.. I do have some specific ideas on a different front fork design I'd like to try. If my request is out of bounds, no offense intended. Many thanks for sharing the details you've already provided... Zip

Zip,

I'm pretty familiar with that lake bed you describe. :karate:

In fact, I'm wearing an IBX2017 t-shirt right now. As you may be aware, there was the year's biggest buggy (etc.) event on Ivanpah just a few days back. Sorry we didn't see you there.

What sized guy are you? I ask only because there are several great buggy guys that live in the greater Vegas area that are sponsored riders and have some great buggies in their own rights. You might be able to hook up with them. Brian Holgate and Bobby Muse (beamerbob here).

I'm not a machinist or anything like that, but my one piece of constructive input would be to say that if you are going to go to the immense effort to custom build a buggy (a super cool project btw) then I'd want to ensure that your wheels are the type you want for Ivanpah and not simply build your buggy around the wheels you have. Maybe your wheels are just right, but if it were my project I'd want to get just the right wheels. Just sayin'.

Go for it!

Steve

Zipzit, nice tool ! My 36 yrs of experience has shown me this one important thing . You don't need that CAD stuff,it's all fancy ,but if you can't draw it (and I don't mean on a pc),you can't build it.
Get a square , a set of dividers, a straight edge, a protractor, and level and draw it out full scale on the shop floor or fab table. All views........ Then build it .

Good luck guys, post build pics !