I need it to have loops on both ends.

You can buy a Flexifoil strop here:

http://www.coastalwindsports.com/servlet/the-500/Harness-Rop...

Or, you can make your own out of leader line material or something similar. I made one with a quick release using this design:

http://kiteboarderz.piczo.com/projects?cr=6&linkvar=0000...

Thank you Seanny

I also have the Peter Lynn Strops...

http://www.coastalwindsports.com/servlet/the-674/Peter-Lynn-...

...and am happy to make you a custom length if you need

Or can link you with what you need to make your own

What are you connecting the strop to? You might not really need loops on the end. Only the flexi prolink handles would require a loop and there is still a way to work around it with them. You might just need a length of amsteel. I've made strops for every fixed bridle I have and didn't need loops. The premade strops can be nice on the other hand.

i have Peter Lynn Strop lines instock ... so if you contact any Peter Lynn Dealer they can order one up for you.

You can see the length of line I'm working with on the handle on the right(top with a plain knot):

http://www.bigmikeskites.com/images/Reviews/SDT-4big.jpg
http://www.bigmikeskites.com/ReviewPages/ReviewSDT28.html

What kind of non line breaking knot could be used to connect the two handles together with a plain piece of amsteel?

I was just planning on tying a double overhand knot close to the handles and then using a larks head with the premade and sewn strop.

Or for the DIY approach, just get some sheet line from a marine store. the width and length of the line is really personal preference. I suggest spending 5$ and getting several different length and widths. You should be able to find 500-2000lbs sheathed line for dimes per foot.

If your handles have lines out the back for a strop, you can larks head the line onto your handles lines or better I prefer a slip knot, just make sure that the slip part is the part of the line that goes between the handles. It'll never come off by accident. If you handles don't have lines for the stop, then you can clove hitch the stop line below the steering lines.

For starters, I believe my strop lines are 22"... but it all depends on your arm length, kite turning input needs, and how for your harness/pulley/roller bar is from your body. Gotta just try it out!

Line on the right is the side that goes between the handles. I'd also put a figure 8 or overhand on the loose end (left side). Pull tight. Good to go! And easy to get off (on purpose) if you want to change it to other handles.

I agree with you that spliced loops are way better. Indecently those can be DIY aswell http://www.samsonrope.com/site_files/12S_C2_EyeSpl.pdf
Also in video. http://www.samsonrope.com/12-strand-class2-eyesplice.cfm

I like to larkshead the strop onto the leader line coming off your handles. Put an overhand knot at the end to prevent it from pulling through.


Strop 2 by BMuse1, on Flickr

Quote:

Originally posted by BeamerBob I like to larkshead the strop onto the leader line coming off your handles. Put an overhand knot at the end to prevent it from pulling through.

that's exactly how I do it. Quick and easy to get on and off if necessary.

Until my supplies show up; I measured the length of my Ozone strop and cut a piece of 550 cord to use as a temp strop tomorrow. I don't think the hook on the harness will wear through it? Knots should hold?

i doubt it will wear through unless you have a barbed rolled bar The knots should be fine just pull them extra tight, I personally don't like to use a larks head if the line is not looped, but it's a personal pref. A note, I don't think it matters either way if they are tight but you have the free end of the line away from the handle, bob has it towards the handle.

Quote:

Originally posted by WIllardTheGrey I agree with you that spliced loops are way better. Indecently those can be DIY aswell http://www.samsonrope.com/site_files/12S_C2_EyeSpl.pdf Also in video. http://www.samsonrope.com/12-strand-class2-eyesplice.cfm

This is precisely what I use for my Amsteel. They end up looking much like the Peter Lynn Strop that I just sent to rtz, but with hand stitching.

I wanted to give this thread a bump in case anyone is tinkering with making their own strop. I have an ozone strop that is 16". It works great on my twister but when I tried it with the blade in light variable wind (which is when I normally fly that one) I had a hard time keeping it in the air. I went to a west marine and bought some 3/16" 1200 lb braided rope with polyester core (they didn't have amsteel in stock). I made a couple different lengths and found that my blade liked to be steered with just as much top line input as brake line input. I settled with a 22" strop as being my preferred length for that kite and I used the BeamerBob no loop larkshead knot to attach to the leaders on the back of the handles. It is super simple allowing one to make strops of different lengths to try out on site. I also liked this method because tying a loop in 3/16" rope results in a large knotted mess by your handles. Obviously splicing works good but I haven't seen the need for that.

I'm sure with all the pics & links you have found what info you need however.....really nice (strong) rope can be purchased by the foot at places like Eastern Mountain Sports, REI, or any Rock climbing place, etc...they will come in all sizes... 4mm ,5mm, 6mm etc....play around with them before they cut it...some are much easier to tie knots with pending diameter size...