I attempted to landboard for the first time today with an AK103 board with Talon bindings. The binding seem really narrow with the aluminum angle
brackets. I wear size 12 shoes and the bindings were slotted to the widest. I really like the pads on kiteboards better. Maybe just what I am used
to. Any advice? Drill wider hole positions? Or do I just get used to it? I kept the straps loose so I could kick off the board if need be.
I had a similar issue with them. Size 9 shoes would not fit without using the wider position and that was even more uncomfortable for me. In a
discussion with GI they indicated that the design is a love/hate thing. Some outright love, some outright hate. As I understand, talons are designed
to lock in on your foot without adjustment by sliding your foot in then twisting your foot forward to snug up the bindings and supposed to fit up to
size 12. My knees just aren’t happy with that motion.
I had already adjusted mine to my satisfaction when I talked to them. Here is how I described the adjustment: I moved the binding’s outer mount inward
on the width and outward on the length of the board by 1.25” each. I have room to slide my foot in and out of the bindings without a “duck” position
torqueing my knees. This position fits my feet loose for the learning curve, yet I can still slide the mounting points in to be snug on my feet if I
pursue a tighter feel. Also, the new angle of the binding pulls down much more evenly on my foot.
I ride with the front foot at 45 and the trailing at 90. If I'm ever sorry as I progress, I can move them back.
US74 HQ Beamer IV 2m, 3m: Apex III 3m, 5m PL Synergy 15m GI Patrol (DAKITEZ special build)
What I’m after:
5-6m lifty something or other
Syn\'s little sibling
Hmmmm... buggy?
Told the wife \"The fuel is free and I won’t have to change the oil.”
the talons are designed for the forefoot , roots are better going high over the bridge of the foot.
can be adjusted either way though with custom setting which YOU choose.
the roots are solid and retain great retention the foot can be placed deep very secure, with the middle metal buckle being the weakest point and will
break .
the talons, the buckle ratchet needs lube and attention or craps out under pressure and rust. the talons are snug arcoos the forefoot and makes
super easy in out.
take time to set them in super smooth in out position. the " twist and in" will wreck your foot and ankle.
thats how it goes "have tool will change". really not a big deal. the high inside area of attachment is where to start, you don't have to both
ends of each strap, just the inside .
As the AK 103 is 9 ply maple, if you are drilling new holes, you might want to fill the old holes with resin. If the new and old holes are close
together, it well keep the wood from fracturing and the bolts pulling through. Just as importantly, it will prevent water from getting between the
maple plies and causing delamination.
ATB,
Sam
"I never had any friends later on like the ones I had when I was 12 - Jesus, does anyone?" - The Body by Stephen King
I moved the bindings a bit to the outer settings and pivoted the inner binding for clearance so I don't have to twist in. Will give it a try -
thanks. I am borrowing it from Dagon so can't make woodchips of it yet.
In addition to the adjustments of the L-brackets, the adjustment of the lean angle of the bindings (Page 2, Step 4) makes a lot of difference in how
easily it is to take your feet out of the straps and reinsert them. It also impacts how much stress is placed on the ladders (plastic "tongue" that
feeds into the ratchet). I found the stock setting for where I placed the L-brackets, caused an unnatural bend in the ladder, so I canted it forward
a bit more. That, in turn, made slipping in and out of the bindings feel more natural.
Post back if you have questions.
Haven't tried downhilling without bindings, as bumps can cause you to inadvertently steer. If it is a really gentle bunny hill and
has a nice runnoff, you should be able to do it without too much grief. In the Expert Village tutorials, the beginning downhills are done without
bindings (the boards doesn't even look like they had them... older video).
Here's the video:
ATB,
Sam
"I never had any friends later on like the ones I had when I was 12 - Jesus, does anyone?" - The Body by Stephen King
As a 56yr total newbie I took the board down to a park, (no kite) suited up with protective gear and gave it spin.
During the first run... I'm thinking as I'm picking up some speed, how do I stop this thing without crash and burning. I rode it out while saying a
few choice words, during the ride down and then moved to little deeper grass and less grade.
After a few runs i got the feel for it and went back where I had started and put in about more 20 runs. I found out that the bindings do make a
difference when I started latching them down. It made it easier for control.
With your help posting the manual, I can now tinker with the bindings to see what I like...
By chance, is there any information or manual on the bionic trucks?
I also know that tire air pressure makes a difference, any suggestions or is it personal choice depending on the surface your rolling on?
Can't wait to get my first kite, learn it, (static with handles) and then add the board... Later on move up to a bar and a d-powered kite.
Fat Sands Productions also puts out a nice instructional DVD called: Progression Kite Landboarding. It presents the material using multiple passes
and breakdown of the moves. At the end of each section, the DVD goes over common mistakes and ways to avoid them.
At $35, it's a little spendy, but it's a niche product and an import (UK) at that. SO shipping tends to be very reasonable ($1.50, I think) using
media mail.
Hope that helps.
ATB,
Sam
"I never had any friends later on like the ones I had when I was 12 - Jesus, does anyone?" - The Body by Stephen King
Sorry about the duplicate link.... corrected now. One of the dangers of typing with a cat perched on your shoulder.... that and interesting claw
marks.... ouch!!!
I would take a pass on the Drill 1 DVD. It's spends too much time on basics (different kite types, wind condiions, etc. and runs out of steam before
getting to the good stuff. At this point it's a bit dated and there is overlap with the Progression DVD which presented the material in a better
fashion (IMHO).
There was supposed to be a follow-up DVD called Drill 2 which showed some promise, but part way through filming, a lot of the filmed material and
camera equipment was stolen during a break-in.... the project seemed to stall after that and no second DVD made it to the public.
If you are interested in riding the board without the kite, the updated MBS Ride Guide DVD might be of interest to you. I considered getting just to include in the library, but balked at the $8.50 shipping for a
$14.95 DVD (FedEx rates rather than Media Mail). If any of the MBS dealers carry it, it doesn't seem to be heavily advertised of any of their
websites.
ATB,
Sam
"I never had any friends later on like the ones I had when I was 12 - Jesus, does anyone?" - The Body by Stephen King
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