I gotta check this now too. Should I disconnect the bar from the kite or can it be done still set up????? I'm also eager to change out the chicken
loop this summer some time. Was thinking the new infinity, but its almost worth more than the kite complete.
what I fly/ride:
19m Flysurfer Speed 2 SA
12m Flysurfer Speed2
6m Ozone access xt
1.5m Ozone imp trainer
144cm Airush Switch
152cm lib tech skate banana
MBS Pro 90
Jereme Leafe Pro 95
What I did - laid out the lines.
Looped a spare bit of line through the ELCs (bar side) at the kite then tied that line around a solid object.
Back to the bar - pick it up and lean back a bit, putting the lines under tension ... the theory is that if the lines are all balanced then the sag in
the lines should be the same and you should have to apply extra force on the CL to pull it out ...
There's a Cabrinha tech tip that shows the procedure ...
According to the Facebook app then by shortening the C and B line you are making the kite more stable by reducing the chamber of the airfoil. It also
says that it makes the kite more prone to back-stall and slower turning. So there are trade-offs. Although wouldn't this be assuming that all the
bridles are stock. Isn't the adjustment to also compensate for stretch of the front edge bridles in relation to the C and B or does that happen? I
have been resetting mine to knots straight across.
I learned a lot from this test. It seemed crazy at first, but makes sense once you finally put it all together. Like you mentioned the kite seems more
stable, but I notice the backstall. Which makes me think that it needs to be on a lighter steering setting. Correct me if I'm wrong here, but this is
my understanding.
softer steering=less rear bridle tension, less direct feedback,less backstalling, possible better upwind performance, (more chance of overflying if
not careful????)
Harder steering=more rear bridle tension, more direct feedback, more backstalling, possible less upwind performance (Less amount of overflying??????)
From that observation is why I'm thinking the harder steering is more suited to someone new to these kites. I could have it way out of proportion, and
please correct me if I'm wrong. I'm kinda relating the characteristics to the vpc and internal strap settings on a peter lynn arc. That is similar to
how my PL manuals describe what is happening when you adjust the settings on an arc. Again I could have it all backwards and have an open mind, to
those who know better than I do.
what I fly/ride:
19m Flysurfer Speed 2 SA
12m Flysurfer Speed2
6m Ozone access xt
1.5m Ozone imp trainer
144cm Airush Switch
152cm lib tech skate banana
MBS Pro 90
Jereme Leafe Pro 95
shaggs, did you check your front-back line lengths? not sure what the last post referred to, the mixer or the front-back line length test. If
you're front lines are long, and you shorten them, there should be less backstall.
Ad7, ya, my understanding is that the mixer would do both. Adjust it for stretch (to get a happy medium between performance/stability), then that's
the new zero point, then adjust it for varying conditions if you want.
But really, if all lined up is working for you, maybe just keep it. Although, if you haven't tried anything other than all lined up, and you have a
bit of time on your hands, you might want to tinker,...it is an interesting experience. I need to do more of it myself.
I was talking mixer adjustments, and hard/soft steering in regards to AD72's comment on more stable profile, but at a cost of more backstall. More
explaining what I've come to understand about how the mixer adjustments affect the flying characteristics. after watching all the available videos on
the subject. I haven't checked my lines yet, its been raining non-stop for the past week. Hoping to sneak a session on the morning before the rain
starts back up in the afternoon.
what I fly/ride:
19m Flysurfer Speed 2 SA
12m Flysurfer Speed2
6m Ozone access xt
1.5m Ozone imp trainer
144cm Airush Switch
152cm lib tech skate banana
MBS Pro 90
Jereme Leafe Pro 95