LOL! I'll be in the front seat, so providing I've got some speed on, all the exploding bits should be behind me!! I'm reminded of the scene in Pitch
Black where they are standing on the ship looking at the trail of debris left behind.....
Yeah, I'm intending to keep it on the sand. Probably replace the treated pine with some similar size alloy rhs. Need a beefier hitch too. And the
ubiquitous gopro mount....
It takes a special person to work in mutimedia. Get some chrome paint on that thing and let the bragging begin!
2.6 , 3.9 , 5.3 , 6.8 PL Vipers
5 , 7.5 HQ Apex II
14m HQ Montana VII
5m naish element
7m ss turbo diesel
10m pansh blaze
5m beamer dearly departed into a tree
3 "snowspider" homebuilt kite sleds
3 homebuilt buggies
1 skate board with seat on wheels or blades (the c0ckroach)
OK, didn't like the pine so I replaced it with some box section alloy and some good SS bolts and nylocks. Now it feels like I can jump up and down on
it with impunity. Looks a tad better too..
The wheel mounts are still a bit scary:o But looks way safer! Did you put spacers in the boxes where the bolts go through to keep it from squashing?
We need video.
Pansh Ace 5.0 X2
North Husky 6.0
PL Guerilla 13, 18
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Home made Rat Buggy
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Blades Of Death, \"thanks Fran\"
I would think the wheel brackets would be stronger and more stable if mounted under the axle bar? With any weight on the trailer now it will
introduce fairl extreme twisting and sheer force on that bracket. I can see the bracket twist and maybe bolt failure due to forces twisting and
shearing at the bolt heads? Mounting underneat puts the force into the base of the braket and puts the load into the bottom of the xale, the bolts
woulf only be to hold the plate to the bar, not support the weight..
Don't get me wrong it is a sweet little set-up! and something I can (WOULD) do if I already had a bug. I mean I am building my own x-over bar rather
than just buy one we all know works :-p:Ange09:
Old Dual line Delta
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cooler , for sure you could double the L brackets to make a U and really give the axle end stout up grade...bolt for the tire could go in the open end
of the box tube , and thru bolts holding both L brackets with room for axle bolt...
Double L U bracket would be trouble PHREE for sure. Good move on the axle .... shiny is almost allways better.
2.6 , 3.9 , 5.3 , 6.8 PL Vipers
5 , 7.5 HQ Apex II
14m HQ Montana VII
5m naish element
7m ss turbo diesel
10m pansh blaze
5m beamer dearly departed into a tree
3 "snowspider" homebuilt kite sleds
3 homebuilt buggies
1 skate board with seat on wheels or blades (the c0ckroach)
Did you put spacers in the boxes where the bolts go through to keep it from squashing? We need video.
I didn't think of that. I have a scaffold/step ladder of the same construction, and yes, the alloy does squash if I tighten the bolts up too much. I
was careful not to overtighten and the nylocS-P-A-M-L-I-N-K-s should stop it coming loose. But some spacers would be easy to add....
Quote:
I would think the wheel brackets would be stronger and more stable if mounted under the axle bar? With any weight on the trailer now it will introduce
fairl extreme twisting and sheer force on that bracket. I can see the bracket twist and maybe bolt failure due to forces twisting and shearing at the
bolt heads?
Good point - something else I had not considered. I'm not worried about the brackets - they are 4-5mm thick and feel very robust. Also, the
breaking strength of two 12mm SS bolts would be pretty high - in the order of tons, but continued flexing could still be an issue as could the 20mm
nuts working loose. Underneath would have been better. I'll be keeping an eye on it for sure.
Quote:
you could double the L brackets to make a U and really give the axle end stout up grade...bolt for the tire could go in the open end of the box tube ,
and thru bolts holding both L brackets with room for axle bolt...
I had considered this for the bracket that holds the hitch, but as the holes are pre-drilled, they would not line up on either side of the alloy -
shorter bolts might fix this but they'd be a bugger to tighten up with the end of the alloy now covered. The best fix would be a post stirrup (a
u-bracket as you suggest) - most of the ones I have seen are for 90x90mm posts but I will keep an eye out - if I can find the right size stirrups, it
would be better for sure.
Thanks guys, some good ideas there and food for thought. I'll keep an eye on the crushing/twisting stuff and keep some spanners handy.
Hopefully we'll get some good weather down at Sandy Point at the end of the month with plenty of passengers and video to test it out properly.
Had to replace my original hitch - nuts came loose and wrecked the thread. Swapped to a 12 eyebolt. Using nylocks on everything apart from the
wingnut on top of the hitch bolt - just for convenience and it's easy to keep an eye on.
I put some spacers in the ends of the axle to stop the alloy box section from crushing - thanks for that tip.
Couldn't talk my wife into a ride around the paddock!!! So all that remains to be done now is get it down the beach and get a bum in the seat......
that should be Speed Week at the end of Oct. Will be nice to have a camera
operator in the back too!
Update - had a few passengers down at Sandy Point and it was a hoot. It ran smooth and quiet, even when empty. Mind you, it was a very smooth
beach. Even put a friend in the front (her first bit of buggying) and yelled instructions at her from the back seat - it all worked extremely well.
Didn't get any video from the trailer (darn it) as circumstances and weather didn't quite line up for the camera...
I reckon I could take it down the beach and charge 20cents a ride!!