I am sure it has been discussed here before..... I just can't dig it up...... Sam????

Anyway..... I was out on a local lake I have been ignoring for a long time.... it is in a depression..... Lots of trees around the Lake, it just never looked like it would be a good kiting spot......

Me and my son loaded up last weekend and on a whim stopped by and WOW...... where did all that wind come from......

Talked to some guys ice fishing and found out the average ice depth was 12 inches.....the snowmobilers told us there is always wind on Cedar and its a pain...... Hatfield Lake lies between this lake and my house and has open water and is loaded with geese.......go figure......

The thing is after about 30 feet onto the lake.....no snow...... the lake is a polished sheet of glass......

My question:

How do you tune your edges? Never done it..... never bothered.... always had that and bindings done once every couple years or so at a shop.....

I want to get some sessions in out here but the surface is so fast and my edges are so dull......

Everything here is usually covered in piles of snow........

go to youtube and search ski tuning or sharpening edges - there a tons of great instructionals.

You need the right files and tools though - available at ski shops / hardware stores. Inititial investment will be more then a tune but once you've got all the stuff, you've got it and you only need to tune if you want a stone grind, base repair or structure type work done on the bases.

Feyd sais 88 degrees on the side all the way front to back, I grind the bottoms flat no bevel at the edges. He knows! I'm guessing! Try it you'll like it!

6 Part Guide on Franklin Crow's Channel:
http://www.youtube.com/user/groundhog574/videos?view=u

You can always break those up with Julia's video


If you signup for CleanCarve's newsletter (you can always opt out later) They provide 8 videos as well a text description of the different procedures and what tools/supplies you will need for each step.
http://www.cleancarve.com/pages/Free-Tuning-Guide.html

If it's really sheet ice, you might also want to check on the thread about the Switchblade or pm Kober or both .

ATB,
Sam

Good lord indi!! That was one great tutorial! Can't remember what it was about, but it was great!!

Awesome guys!!!

Thanks.....

How do you wax a snowboard again???

What snowboard....?

Well 1st post, didn't even get to introduce myself yet. But i know about this one. Be sure your tips & tails are dulled, free of burrs, nice and rounded. you only realy want sharpened the area under boot, to a foot or so in front and behind your bindings. Longer on bigger boards. Make sure to clean the bottoms and it's rust free, holes filled, sanded directionally (if Ness)......... Then you can think about waxing....dry patches on the bases are grabby ..........justsayin

Best resource I've found on base prep, edge tuning, waxing:

http://www.tognar.com/how-to-tune-wax-repair-ski-snowboard-d...

Great discussion on setting base and edge bevel relative to ski shape:

http://www.epicski.com/t/18076/base-and-side-edge-angles-on-...

Best tools for base and edge prep:
http://www.svst.com/SVST1.aspx?Category=0b4f1b0e-67ad-47ba-9...

I use a 10" mill file (single cut) with the SVST base and edge guides. Finish with a set of stones 220-600 grit and a hard Arkansas. I keep side bevels sharp with the stones and jig during the season, leaving base bevel alone unless there are nicks. I try not to use a file except for the initial prep at beginning of season.


With my Magna Traction twin tip skis, I prefer a 0.5-0.7 degree base bevel and 1.5 degree side bevel. Bevel runs to the ends as far as I can get it. Edges are sharp the whole length, but slightly dulled at ends just ahead of the pressure point at tip, and behind pressure point at tail. This keeps them from 'hooking up' prematurely in snow. Works well for me as a compromise on the lakes with a kite, or on the slopes in the Midwest. I can see where 0 degree base bevel and 2-3 degree side bevel would work really well on ice.

I strongly disagree with the recommendation that edges be dulled except under the boot area. Good luck getting that ski to hang on in anything but powder.

krumly

Second Krumly. Sharp tip to tail.

If a relatively straight ski, detune only to contact points if you can't handle the hook. Feather beyond contacts (lightly with a gummi) if you actually want to use the skis on the hill as well.

If it's a "shape" ski I do not recommend detune. You have relatively minimal active edge and the ski works best if it gets all the edge bite it can. If you have a modern ski and you ski old school, (ankles together etc.) then go ahead and detune.

My tune works extremely well on ice but if I were to take it to the hill it would be a lot of work to ride if I wasn't carrying speed and the slopes aren't boilerplate. Fortunately fast and boilerplate is New England skiing in a nutshell.

I am looking for a set up that will hook me up on the ice. These skis are for snowkiting only......

I could not hook up at all the day we were out on Cedar Lake, but then again that was my first go at black ice....... this is def Feyd's turf.....

I sure miss the snow....... I got a feeling if I get my edge right and get up on the ice I will get moving fast real quick......

I am just going nutz around here with no snow....... so I figured I'd get some info on prep'n the skis for ice and at least give it a go.....

Got full body armor, full face helmet, knee pads, and butt pads...... so the old man should be OK for one attempt on the ice.....

We got 6-7 inches of powder yesterday. (See Pic) Got first tracks for about 3hrs on one lake and the moved to another lake. The other lake had more wind and 2'whales had built up but it was still soft.

Get yourself a old school straight ski, throw a 88 degree side edge with flat base edge, sharp tip to tail and you'll have a lot more fun on the glass. You can go sharper than 88 degree but 88 will last a lot longer.

Remember to drive the edge tho. All the edge in the world won't hold if you don't put some power into it.

Thanks for the info Feyd..... awesome pic..... wish I could join you....... If you come this way for the Mile Lacs crossing you will probably be racing on glass this year.... We got a half inch of snow yesterday and the wind never let it settle on the lake.....there is nothing to speak of covering the fields.... Been looking for some straight skis but no luck around here so far..... I will have to check flea markets this summer for a set but that won't help now......

Taking my skis into the shop this morning to get the recommended edge setup. Don't want to wait until my order for do it yourself comes in.... Found a Toko 88 degree edge tool for about 30 bucks and the files and stones for a good price.

I was touching up my Yamahas this morning and realized they are dangerously close to the end of thier tune life. Just bought another ski as a backup.

It sucks to have a ski die due to tuning. Perfectly good, just no edge left and even less sidewall.

Too bad skis don't have replaceable edges, like brake pads. I guess the manufactures would lose out on sales that way.

Feyd really is spot on with the 88 degree edge. I have mine setup this way and can say that they really hold well when sharp. It took me a little while to completely trust my ski edges. At first I was nervous about leaning over on them that much but came to realize that the further I leaned over and drove them hard, the better they held.

Goof, you'll just have to head over this direction, we have snow on most of the lakes now:bouncing:

@Feyd... The tech that did my skis yesterday also told me there is not much life left in my K2's..... he said maybe a couple of more tunings......

@cheddarhead.....That might be the ticket when my son is on spring break for school if no snow has shown up here by then.......

Yeah, tuning a lot will kill the ski. Of course it depends on frequency of the tunes and how heavy a hand it doing the work.

But on the upside I've ridden skis with less than .5mm edge and had them actually hold well. You just can't afford to hit anything that may damage the edge.

88 is a good all round edge. You just have to commit to driving it and once you get the feel it's awesome.

Just remember to really pressure the shins and driver your big toe int the edge. It will be like you're on rails when it's right.