So, I bought a PL XR+ buggy (thanks markite!) and finally managed to get out in it today. My first time in a buggy and was overpowered (for my skill level) with a 2.0m Hornet in >30km/h wind. After a couple of (very short) runs (and 1 OBE), I decided to call it a day - better to stop before hurting myself than take that "one last run". Thank you Ziggy for your help and advice.

Then the problem started. While taking the buggy apart to fit it into my car, one of the nuts on the bolts that secure the down tube seized. Ziggy suggested that a little grease might ease it up, but no such luck. It won't tighten or loosen.

So, my question is: how do I remove the bolts from the downtube? Each bolt is welded on 2 sides and I'm not mechanically-inclined.

Any suggestions would be appreciated!
Howard

it is galled and you will have to cut it off and replace it.Always use anti-seizant on your bolts to prevent this.

if you really crank down on it it will shear the bolt in the threads.(weakest link)

and Kudos for not taking the"one more run". I will never do it again:wow:

I can bring my Grinder w/a cutting wheel to WWBB,then you could just use a regular bolt?

I have several times had stainless steel bolts and nuts seize together, you have several options. 1) double up the wrenches , that is , put the box end on the bolt and nut and put an additional box end wrench on the open end for extra leverage. 2) flatten the end of some pipe that will then fit over your wrenches or ratchets = extra leverage. 3) Borrow a little die grinder/Dremel tool with a "cut off wheel" and cut the bolt off. It sucks when a bolt and nut like that seizes because there is no good way to salvage it. I think Harbor Freight has cheap little electric grinders (Dremel tool) . Even if your not mechanically inclined they are pretty simple and you will find other uses for it.

Yup, only way to get it off is to break it or cut it. This happens from time to time with stainless bolts. Use anti-seize to prevent it.

Heat wouldn't help? (Not familiar with the behaviours of stainless nuts & bolts.)

You can try liquid wrench, but it's probably seized like the above said and not worth it. It's basically welded. You can grind or snap it off by torquing it if you have a pipe wrench and long handle. Once you get it off you can just replace with another stainless bolt, a few bucks.

Next time put some anti-seize or anti-galling goop for stainless. IMHO any brand will do. Stainless on stainless will seize if you get too aggressive on the tightening. e.g. the stuff is cheap, a little goes a long way but don't be stingy.

Used to have this problem- stainless is actually pretty soft. As said above, your only real option is to cut or break it off. I switched to zinc plated grade 8.8 hardware. Actually less than half the cost of stainless metric hardware.

Quote:

Originally posted by heliboy50 stainless is actually pretty soft.

Uh.... No.... Brass is soft. Stainless is extremely hard,that's why it galls. And you don't have to be agressive with it to gall it. Just a lil bit of friction and it will create enough heat to seize. If stainless was soft, it wouldn't be such a pain to work and polish.

WG:saint:

Hey WG, thanks for the offer, but I'd rather have this done before I head down to WBB. Besides, you've got better things to do than haul extra tools. I've borrowed both a dremel and a grinder and should be able to do the job. If I get really stuck, I'll recant and ask for more help.

I did try to snap the bolt, but I guess I don't spend enough time with the DynaBee. The Liquid Wrench didn't seem to help either. When I'm dumb, I'm dumb all the way. At least now I know more about stainless steel.

I'll take pictures...

See y'all at the Shalimar! (12 days and counting :bouncing: )

You just learned to weld stainless ... by accident

There is a fourth method that I almost forgot , put a box end wrench on the nut and whack the open end with a sledge hammer. This method has a high probability of success and an almost equally high probability of injury. Have a fearless friend hold the wrench in place with his foot , if the wrench doesn't break at least it will stay in place and you can finish the job.

Gee, didn't think we were talking semi precious/jewelry making. 316, or tool steel?

Quote:

Originally posted by heliboy50 Gee, didn't think we were talking semi precious/jewelry making. 316, or tool steel?

:LOL: All good Bro!

Quote:

Originally posted by snowspider There is a fourth method that I almost forgot , put a box end wrench on the nut and whack the open end with a sledge hammer. This method has a high probability of success and an almost equally high probability of injury. Have a fearless friend hold the wrench in place with his foot , if the wrench doesn't break at least it will stay in place and you can finish the job.

Does this fall under the axiom of "No holiday is complete without a trip to the emergency room."? :o

ATB,
Sam

Yup. Holidays and the first weeks of nice weather are always high risk times.

Well,
first I had to get the bolts off. since they were completely seized, this looked like a good idea.

but even after I had the nuts off, the bolt wouldn't slide out.
so...

a little bit of cleanup of the welded areas was needed,

and with new bolts it's as good as new.
(and no emerge room trips required!)

Thank you for all the advice!
Now on to WBB :wee:

Way to go ,I knew you could do it! Welcome to buggy maintenance 101. Before you know it you will be repacking bearings, swapping tires , etc...

Thanks Donnie!
Repaking the bearings is a cinch. I'm an old-school roller skater and used to work at the rink pro-shop. (no stainless steel there)
Now I'm worried about the wheel bolts. Am I going to have problems taking them out? They also went in before I knew about lube'ing stainless. If I can get them out, is there any particular grease I should use?
Maybe I just forget about them and get a second axel if I want to change tires? (seems a bit extravagant!)
See you in Wildwood :wee: