I've been watching youtube and practicing brummel splices, locking splices, zacher knots, etc.all day and just tried this method
and find it hands down to be the super easiest method for tightly woven spectra. I've been doing it on 485# hollow braid dyneema to make up my
sliding wingtip lines. It uses more line beacuse of how much extra line it buries but it locks things up super secure.
I'm thinking I'll do one side like this always and then zacher or hand stich the other loop eye for security as I'm not sure I can figure out how to
make the line the length I need it to be yet with this method done on both sides.
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That was like magic! I've done splicing before and made my own waterski handles, added midline loops and end loops, but that is really clean. I have
to try that myself.
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Even though he says its locked tight, I'd add some stitching as I discovered last night that the loop can be pulled out if pulling only on the tag end
side. Not likely to occure after being larksheaded to something but you never know.
Depower Quiver: 14m Gin Eskimo, 10m Gin Eskimo III, 6m Gin Yeti, 4.5m Gin Yeti (custom bridle and mixer)
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Rides: Ground Industries
I never had any luck with that method - but I used regular-sized 'fids' in my attempts which may have been why it inverted in a messy way...
Regular ol' eye splices are 'the best' IMHO but something to be aware off that I saw the other day - one site recommended that you bury 72x the width
of the line :o I'd still stitch it though...
Originally posted by Kamikuza
I never had any luck with that method - but I used regular-sized 'fids' in my attempts which may have been why it inverted in a messy way...
I'm using a #12 guitar string and I think that helps alot as it flips over itself fairly easy and that seems to be the key.
Where they use tape in the vid, I have had good luck with a half opened paper clip to keep the inverted loop open and then you can use a pen or your
fid to push the line through the hole and unroll it (something not really discussed in the written details but maybe in the associated video?? - I
can't watch at work). All the videos use large strand 12 braid which is a whole lot easier then tightly bound, low diameter, spectra / dyneema.
ditto on the tapering, that is important. I've been going about 35x the length in my tails. Longer is better but 72 is a bit much for me as it could
create a situation where the tails run into each other if your are loop splicing both ends on shorter line segments.
Depower Quiver: 14m Gin Eskimo, 10m Gin Eskimo III, 6m Gin Yeti, 4.5m Gin Yeti (custom bridle and mixer)
Fixed Bridle Quiver: MAC Bego 400, JOJO ET Instinct 2.5 & 5.5, Lil Devil 1.5, Sting 1.2
Rides: Ground Industries
Tapering the tail is most important. If you don't taper, your line will have a stress concentration at the end of the tail.
Stitching will keep the tail in place, but does not add any strength to the splice.
S
Is it possible to design for strength, if the designer doesn't really understand what strength is?
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