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Author: Subject: I think i am going to fix up my kite trike
shortlineflyer
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[*] posted on 5-12-2012 at 06:51 PM
I think i am going to fix up my kite trike


It has been sitting in my basement with some rust on it. I am going to grind and clean off the rust spray a few coats of clearcoat on it and fix it up. plus get better bolts so i can be harder on it if I want to.

When I rode it a while back I had some speed wobbles problems when I got in the upper 20s (mph speed of the buggy) any one know what I can do to fix it.

I really liked riding that buggy, but the speed wobbles could be scary sometimes.
might also put some foot straps and make a new seat for it or just use my big seat for it.



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[*] posted on 5-12-2012 at 09:20 PM


I am planning to fix my since April WBB ..... and keep forgetting ... Broken front fork attachment ... Now when winter is almost here all my attention is focussed on snow ...



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[*] posted on 5-12-2012 at 09:36 PM


shortlineflyer, how does it compare to your Peter Lynn?
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[*] posted on 6-12-2012 at 04:03 AM


I went throught mine about a month ago- you'll find the rust is just surface- looks worde than it is. Then I used a primer that turns rust into metal and painted it Black.
Couple coats of clearcoat too. Replaced all bolts with grade 5.

Put 16x6.50's on it (front can't:thumbdown:) and put a backrest on. Thought I had the seat buckle issue worked out till my 1st run heard the "pop" and my left ass cheek was draggin!

Never had speed wobble though, I have mine extended to the 2nd from last holes if that helps. Is it the back or front that does the shimmy?



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[*] posted on 6-12-2012 at 07:08 AM


I don't know the name of the product off hand, but I have used it on a really rusty basement door. It's basically a paint/primer that you put right on top of the rust. After you rub it with a wire brush to get the loose stuff off (prep). It's some type of chemical reaction to the rust that turns it back into a primer sort of so it's paint ready. Did three projects with it years ago and they all look great and are still holding up.

Stainless steel bolts will take care of the rust problem in the future and get the nuts with the nylon washers built it. They tend to not seize up and are easy to do and un-do easily.

Just use a high quality enamel paint (oil based)....If you can't find one at Lowes or a True Value type place go sweet talk the sales rep at Sherwin Williams...they carry stuff that the gen. person usually can't buy (and can do any color)

That's all I can think of for now to help you out.



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[*] posted on 6-12-2012 at 07:13 AM


On wobble issue.....

Some things to check:

Is bolt axle slightly bent?
Is tire seated on rim properly?
Has rim been deformed?
Is bolt correct size(width) for bearing?

Okay...I'm out of ideas..anyone else... Bueller?:roll:
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[*] posted on 6-12-2012 at 08:09 AM


I have one of these with a wobble in the front wheel. When I got it the front you're was bad,I got a new barrow tire and tube from the local hardware store put it together and wobble. The original tire was 3.5 not 4, don't know if that had anything to do with it. Hopefully I will get a chance to play with it and work it out. Maybe better tire, smaller tube, readjust, out someone told me about some stiff you put in them to balance them. If my son starts going faster I may just replace the whole wheel if I can't fugue it out



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[*] posted on 6-12-2012 at 08:26 AM


Comparing it to an xr+ I really like both. the pl is definitely louder since the rails are not bolted to the axel. the back axle on the trike is fairly wider and the tires are narrower than std pl tires.

All of the axle bolts are 12mm so if you plan on being really hard on the buggy get at least grade 5 bolts.
If I can find em online I might get Titanium bolts.

The rails on the trike are completely different than the PL.

the height of the foot pegs on the trike are adjustable which is nice. before I had the PL I never really played with the height of the pegs. now knowing more about buggying, I wish I had.
the pegs also have a textured surface to give your feet more traction on the pegs.

my plans.

I think I want to make a copy of the original seat and play around with it. If that doesn't work out I will make a custom seat molded to me and the buggy. In fact I might just do that.



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[*] posted on 6-12-2012 at 08:46 AM


I dont think its the wheel. I think its the fork



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[*] posted on 6-12-2012 at 11:11 AM


Quote:
Originally posted by BEC
I don't know the name of the product off hand, but I have used it on a really rusty basement door. It's basically a paint/primer that you put right on top of the rust. After you rub it with a wire brush to get the loose stuff off (prep). It's some type of chemical reaction to the rust that turns it back into a primer sort of so it's paint ready. Did three projects with it years ago and they all look great and are still holding up.


Product is called Loctite Extend. Goes on white, dries to a black, slightly elastomer primer coat.

ATB,
Sam



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[*] posted on 6-12-2012 at 02:33 PM


Its called Rustoleum Rust Reformer
$4.99 @ Harbor Freight.



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[*] posted on 6-12-2012 at 03:46 PM
if you think its' the fork...


...check the headset. Easy check.

You need to see if it wiggles(sided to side..or even up and down ). Lift front wheel off ground. Hold downtube(frame) steady. While holding fork low , see if it will move side to side- pushing and pulling- within the head tube(where fork swivels). If fork shifts even the slightest bit....that's your problem(or one of them). Fork should spin only......there shoud be no other movement of fork within head tube -side movement or up and down.

If so...you either need to tighten(don't overtighten- it has to spin:spin: freely)..or you need new head set.

If not.....:puzzled: It's either wheel or headset.
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[*] posted on 6-12-2012 at 05:45 PM


The bearings in the Headset are pretty poor at best- basically ball bearings in a race- found a new set at a local bike shop but..... my race in the headset was already grooved so it won't last long. There is a very fine line between tightening and crushing the bearings in this trike.

Make sure your nut on top of the flat tightening washer is tight too- use blue thread locker.



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[*] posted on 6-12-2012 at 09:31 PM


Kite trike's down tube is suspect. Vlado had his fold. You might want to beef it up. Fortunately, Vlado was not going fast when it failed.
S



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[*] posted on 10-12-2012 at 08:59 AM


that race may be standard in a lot of bicycles and some little kid tricycles. In my tinkerings I've tapped(lightly hammered) them out and put them to use in other applications. Check some small junker bikes and trikes.



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[*] posted on 23-1-2013 at 12:32 PM


the buggy is almost complete
I need to work on the bearings and get tubes and that is it

I put the XR+ seat on the buggy and was amazed at how comfortable it was. it was alot more comfy than the same seat on the XR+.

I plan on doing a full comparison of both buggies to see the differences.
I will do the comparison in a separate topic.



Elliot Kites sigma 360 --- Rev Blast 2-4 --- HQ Scout 5.0 --- HQ Crossfire II 10.0 --- HQ hydra 350
2010 Liquid Force Havoc 10m -- Slingshot ranger 12m -- Peter Lynn Scorpion 16m -- EH Cabarete Freestyle

MBS Elements mountainboard
MBS atom cruiser (stake trucks and wheels)
Peter Lynn XR+ kite buggy (std wheels and wide treads)
KiteTrike
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[*] posted on 23-1-2013 at 02:30 PM


Did u change the fork.?



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[*] posted on 23-1-2013 at 02:40 PM


No, I am keeping as many of the original parts as possible



Elliot Kites sigma 360 --- Rev Blast 2-4 --- HQ Scout 5.0 --- HQ Crossfire II 10.0 --- HQ hydra 350
2010 Liquid Force Havoc 10m -- Slingshot ranger 12m -- Peter Lynn Scorpion 16m -- EH Cabarete Freestyle

MBS Elements mountainboard
MBS atom cruiser (stake trucks and wheels)
Peter Lynn XR+ kite buggy (std wheels and wide treads)
KiteTrike
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