Xanthiax - Sean (ssayre) is spot on of course and has more experience than me by a long shot. At times I've had different four line kites that I've
flown on the same handles and lines. The knots I usually think of for adjusting the effective length of the break lines are the thicker lines that
attach to the lower loops of the handles themselves.
By tightening the break lines (moving the kite line to knots closer to the handles) you are going to increase the sensitivity of the kite to small
movements on the handles as you flex your wrists vertically. Get the brake lines too short and the kite will tend to want to back down the ground or
not want to take off from the ground at all.
I've found that as much as anything that this becomes somewhat of a comfort issue. Different brake line lengths tend to cause the handles to orient
themselves at different angles as the kite attempts to obtain the pitch it wants. This will force your wrists to flex in more or less comfortable
positions, so in that way, fine tuning can make the handles feel better in your hands.
Bottom line, there is a basic range of brake line lengths that will work. You want to make sure there is enough tension in the brake lines such that
you have some response at the kite when you try to work the brakes from the handles, but not have so much tension that the kite won't fly right or
your hands end up in an uncomfortable position.
Fiddle around with things and find what works for you and your kites. Feel free to move the knots up and back a little on the handle lines. Just
make sure you are symmetrical on both handles.
HAVE FUN! :karate:
Born-Kites:
RaceStar+ (3.0m, 5.0m, 7.0m, 9.0m)
NasaStar-5 (2.5m, 4.0m)
NasaStar-4 (2.5m)
NasaStar-3 (3.2m)
Ozone kites:
Access (6.0m)
Flysurfer Kites:
Peak-5 (2.5m)
Buggy:
Peter Lynn BigFoot+ nose & tail; midsection VTT rail & seat kit; home-brewed AQR
NAPKA Member US2815
SWATK Member UT0003