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Demoknight
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[*] posted on 23-2-2016 at 12:49 PM
Tubes for my tires


I am sick of having to get the pump out every time I want to ride. Sometimes I have to go as far as reseating the tires, and after enough times I am sure the bead loses some of its ability to seal.

Does anyone have recommendations for some tubes to be used in PL Extra Wides? I barely know anything about tire sizing, and I know even less about where to look for tubes, but I know how to mount tires just fine. I want to slap some tubes in these things and forget about it. My back axle goes flat all the time. Sometimes it leaks down in the middle of a ride and I just don't have the gas left in me to pump them back up so I pack up and go home for the day.



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ssayre
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[*] posted on 23-2-2016 at 01:03 PM


This doesn't answer your question but I put slime in my tires a year ago and haven't had to touch them since.

Tubes would probably solve your problem though because mine were mainly leaking at the bead.
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[*] posted on 23-2-2016 at 01:10 PM


Quote: Originally posted by ssayre  
This doesn't answer your question but I put slime in my tires a year ago and haven't had to touch them since.

Tubes would probably solve your problem though because mine were mainly leaking at the bead.


I'm with Sean here. Not an answer, but sliming may well address your problem. It worked for me in the past.



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[*] posted on 23-2-2016 at 01:12 PM


We have tubes in stock if Slime doesn't work or if you don't want to go that way.

Standard tube works for the smoothies, ribbed and wides.
http://www.awindofchange.com/product/innertube.html




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Demoknight
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[*] posted on 23-2-2016 at 04:05 PM


Yeah, I don't want the mess of slime if I change tires or rims in the future. I want to be able to try out bigfoot tires later on the same rims. Tubes it is. Thanks for the tip.



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[*] posted on 23-2-2016 at 05:02 PM


the bead reinforcement may be broken in the tire. the tube will kinda help but as soon as you start ripping on it it will jump off. if its jumped before its the end of the tire. might save you some headache.



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Demoknight
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[*] posted on 23-2-2016 at 05:58 PM


I've only had one tire jump once, and that was over a year ago. Way before I had the leaking problem. It was from power sliding over a rut to avoid a dog. Flipped my buggy and came up screaming at the owners. I have video somewhere. They don't come off the seat even when they leak down pretty low. The only problem is the leaking. I think tubes should fix me right up.



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[*] posted on 23-2-2016 at 10:12 PM


I was just looking for this same thing. Thanks! I will have to look though because my rims might be different.



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[*] posted on 23-2-2016 at 11:55 PM


Take the tire/wheel off and pump it up. Stick the entire thing in a bucket or pale of water and look for the bubbles, now you will know where the leak is. I have found that 90% of tire leaks are the valve stem, which is an easy fix.
The numbers on the side of the tire tells you it's size, for instance 480-8 / 2 Ply. You order a tube that's 480-8. The 2ply denotes the thickness of the tire sidewall.
The only hard part is the configuration of the valve stem, center of the wheel, off to one side, strait or bent.
If your going to buggy you might as well learn about tires now.:D



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[*] posted on 24-2-2016 at 10:04 AM


You can get the tubes at any place like Northern Tool & Equipment or the like (they are not expensive at all... less than $10 a piece). The Midi's use the same sized tube as the Barrows. I cannot remember the size though because its been a while since I've bought them. You will have to remove the valve stem from the plastic hub though, which can be a pain, but really not a big deal.... I prefer running tubes myself... Ive just had better luck that way and it makes seating the tire all the more easy. It is tricky to get it started because you have to use a pair of pliers to hold the tube's valve stem until it starts inflating, but its worth it IMO.



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[*] posted on 24-2-2016 at 02:03 PM


Bigkid, I know how to check for leaks. It leaks at the bead like I said. I have remounted and cleaned with soapy water several times, and after I seat the tires to the rims I re-check with soapy water around the bead and stem. They usually look nice and tight right after I seat them and get the pressure I want, and then they leak during riding. I am not messing with tires anymore, so I just plan on getting a set of tubes and being done with it.



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[*] posted on 24-2-2016 at 05:06 PM


One of my tires would always leak as well. I checked for leaks around the bead and stem and found none. It turns out that there were very small cracks in my rim. I discovered these cracks when I added some
Slime to the tire. I ended up purchasing new a new rim and decided to run tubes in all my tires. I find it easy to do field repairs with tubes. I typically just swap out the tube and repair the puncture later on.



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[*] posted on 24-2-2016 at 05:27 PM


I think you still have the plastic rims that came with the pl? I didn't fully investigate the source of my leaks prior to slime, but you will notice on the picture the slime leaking out at the bead. When I'm done riding there will be slime leaking out the bead a tiny bit on all wheels. Slime is the quick and dirty answer but tubes do sound like a better long term option. I think I've read that it's pretty common issue on pl wheels to leak around the bead.



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[*] posted on 24-2-2016 at 06:05 PM


there was a batch of rims that came out a few years ago that were prone to leakage. the problem was the thin casting mark that was on the rim that was created when the rim was formed in the mold. this small line caused some tires to not seat tight at bthe bead and would allow air to escape ever so small when under stress or sitting over time. super easy fix was to just sand down the casting line with some sandpaper where the bead is so it is smooth. this was mostly common with the rims shown above that had the pressure release button on them.



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[*] posted on 25-2-2016 at 07:11 AM


Errol,... go tubes... easiest fix. Done... Pretty sure they are 480/400-8.0. As I said, the same sized tubes for midis as for barrows.



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[*] posted on 25-2-2016 at 09:54 PM


Been there, fixed that, bought alloy wheels.

You might want to look real good at your wheels for a hairline crack near the bearing races and in the center.
Big Kid's stick it in water will show bubbles for sure but sometimes the gap is so small that it will only open up under stress.
A tube will address that issue until the crack opens up and pinches it. A boot around the wheel on the flat will save a pinched tube down there. You can cut a boot strip from an old inner tube. I used contact cement when I booted my plastic rims. Boom, no more leak downs.

Get off the nickel Error and get another set of wheels and tires.

The less you fuss with them the longer they'll last you and... use Slime! It might save you from a loooong dead buggy drag back to your car. A flat at speed could be a real pain in the butt as well as other places. IMHO



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[*] posted on 25-2-2016 at 11:39 PM


Quote: Originally posted by awindofchange  
there was a batch of rims that came out a few years ago that were prone to leakage. the problem was the thin casting mark that was on the rim that was created when the rim was formed in the mold. this small line caused some tires to not seat tight at bthe bead and would allow air to escape ever so small when under stress or sitting over time. super easy fix was to just sand down the casting line with some sandpaper where the bead is so it is smooth. this was mostly common with the rims shown above that had the pressure release button on them.

That's what you get when you sell the company and the new boss thinks he has a better idea and can save more money with a new style and design while using less material. We won't talk about the PL wheels that failed the pressure relief valve test and blew off the outer portion of the wheels. Never had any problems with the old style PL wheels.
Along the same leak problems, Sysmic had an issue with the finish work on a few of the holes where the valve stem was inserted. You change out the valve stem with a tube and then the tube leaked at the hole for the stem. As soon as the hole was filed and sanded smooth the problem went away.



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Flexboardz. Blokarts.
PKD Century Soulflys. NPW's. Nasa Stars.
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[*] posted on 9-3-2016 at 08:05 AM


tubes solve the bead leak issue but wouldn't do a whole lot for puncture resistance. Sure you can repair the tube but you can also plug the tire even easier if not using tubes so I don't see that as a huge advantage.

Has anyone tried the tubes that come with slime in them already? Seems like the best of both worlds if it works.
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[*] posted on 9-3-2016 at 08:32 AM


I am not worried about punctures. I ride exclusively beaches and rarely grass. I will plug or replace a tire if I have to, but in three years of riding buggies, I haven't had a single puncture. I have rolled tires off the rim by catching ruts, but that is fixable.



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Ozone R1 V3 7m
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Peter Lynn Charger 2 12m
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Peter Lynn 2013 Reactor 5.5m
Peter Lynn 2013 Reactor 8.6m
Prism Tensor 5.0m

Ride:
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[*] posted on 9-3-2016 at 08:54 AM


I guess your lucky. My one and only puncture happened at your beach
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[*] posted on 12-3-2016 at 06:09 AM


Tubes. Switched year ago, leaks are now non issue. My pump is rusty now. I get them cheap $8 at local SSI Ace Hardwae, lawnmower section




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