Hi,

I was searching around for a forum like this to post my question. A couple of years ago I bought a Peter Lynn Twister 3.0. I went to a kite shop and asked what would be a good starter kite with four lines. They advised me this one.

They told me some basics and I memorized the instruction booklet but I couldn't find some good information about something I noticed after trying to get the kite in the air. The brake lines were much shorter (around 20 cm) than the main lines, so the kite was pulled down the moment I tried to let it go up.

There was one sentence in the booklet about all four lines being of the same length, so I used the ajustment knots to overcome the differences. Now I can get it in the air, but I still have the feeling that I have to tilt the handles too much which isn't comfortable, but I can't ajust anymore.

Question: should the lines be the same lenth?
Thanks for the help.

Yes, all four lines should be the same length.

As the line set increases in length (90m-brakes are 1m longer because of wind drag) the brake lines need to increase more than the power lines.
Better to have a 25m/30m line set with the brakes being the same or a couple inches longer than the power lines. Never shorter power lines than the brakes.

The lines should all be the same length.
If there is a difference are you sure you don't have the power and brake line mixed up?

power lines are usually a bit thicker than the brakes
index fingers over top of the power lines when holding the handles...bottoms tilt forward some its natural
jusayin

It is normal for the handles to be tilted so that the brake ends are forward of the power end. You have a longer brake stroke that way and it feels more natural. As said before, all lines should be the same length.

I'm a little disappointed that a dealer recommended a lifty kite like a Twister for someone to learn on. That's neither wise nor responsible.

It sounds like you are on the right track.

If your actual brake lines are that much different from the ( fatter ) fly lines I would be taking them back to the dealer? If they are Peter Lynn lines they should stand by their product. If your dealer won't exchange them then I think HE may be a bit shady? Like Bob says, selling you a lifty kite to learn on puts up red flags. Did you buy the RTF package of Peter Lynn product or did you buy kite only and he has sold you handles + lines from a different ( Pansh ? ) dealer?

MOST imortant is that both back lines and both front are the same as each other. Then, as you know you can adjust at your leader on the handles and or move them up on your brake bridle leaders. Just add a knot .

When you are holding your handles in neutral. Basiscally flying with your index and pointer finger, fly line in between, you should have a slight arc in the back lines with handles relaxed. Essentially flying only on the front 2 lines. When you pull the bottom of the handles in all the way with your 2 small fingers you should be able to back the kite down.

Some folks like their brakes tight and some loose. Play with it until you find what works for you.

As stated, all four lines should be equal length. The Twister and all other Peter Lynn fixed bridle kites are all designed to be used with 4 equal lines. Your power lines (top lines) should be stronger and thicker than your bottom lines (brake lines)

You didn't state if you were using handles or a bar as the Twister is available for purchase with either setup. I am assuming you are using handles, if not then let us know.

The leaders on the handles should be extra long. This is so you can add in some adjustment knots. I usually recommend putting in several knots on both the top and bottom leaders, each about 1.5 to 2 inches apart. The distance between the knots are not that important but the knots must be equal distance from the left handle to the right. Meaning if you decide 2" knots, then make sure that the left handle and right handle have the knots in the exact same places. Set them side by side and stretch out the leaders to double check this. This will allow you to tune your kite to your flying style. Everyone has a different flying style so one setting fits all doesn't really work well. The adjustable knots allows you to find what works best for you.

To tune your kite to your flying style:
First make sure you have the proper winds to tune your kite. The winds should be on the lighter end of your kites wind range and should also be smooth and steady. Gusty conditions will make it very difficult to get your kite set up properly.

Once you have the knots on your handles in place, start by attaching the flying lines so that the top leaders are all the way out on the last knot (furthest from the handles) and the brake (bottom) lines are all the way in (closest knot to the handles). Try to launch your kite. The kite in this setting will normally be very difficult to launch (if at all) and maybe launch off the ground and then drop back down again. Move the attachment point of the flying lines on the bottom of the handles ON BOTH SIDES out to the next knot away from the handles and try to launch again. Continuethis procedure until the kite launches easily for you. If you reach the last knot on the brake lines (furthest from the handles) and the kite is still struggling to launch, start moving the top lines in towards the handles one knot at a time. If you get the top lines all the way to the closest knot on the handles and the kite still does not launch then you have a more serious issue with either the kite or the flying lines. If this happens contact your dealer to help you get it sorted out.

Once the kite leaves the ground with a good easy launch, fly it back and forth with your hands in their normal position. The kite should fly easily back and forth through the wind window. As it is moving across the window, pull the bottom of the handles in moderately (put on the brakes) and see how the kite responds. The kite should be easy to slow down with medium pressure and stall without having to really crank the handles in hard. The kite should stay in the air and not begin to reverse. If the kite stalls out really easy and starts to fly in reverse, your brake lines are still too tight and you will either have to let the brakes out to the next knot away from the handles or pull the top lines in to the next knot. Do this until it is easy to stall the kite. For reverse flight or landing you should be able to put heavy pressure on the brake lines and land the kite. This should be able to be done without having to really crank your wrists hard. If you are putting full force on the bottom lines and cranking your wrists and the kite is still barely starting reverse flight, your brake lines are too long and will need to be tightened up (shortened) by moving them to the next closest knot towards the handles.

Continue to adjust the connection points of your lines on the handles as you launch, fly, stall and land the kite until you have the best possible control with good speed through the window, easy stalling and good control landing the kite. This will tune the kite to your flying style.

Keep in mind that as wind conditions change, you may need to adjust your lines as needed. As big kid mentioned, line drag on the brake lines will effect the way your kite flies. Stronger winds will put more drag on the lines, causing your brake lines to slow or stall the kite sooner. You may need to lengthen your brake lines in stronger winds to compensate for the line drag. This will give your kite back the speed through the window and lessen the constant pull on your arms while you fly.

Also, as you fly your lines may stretch out a bit. As your top lines stretch, the brake lines will become tighter causing the same results as listed above. Play with your settings from time to time to make sure you are getting the best performance from your kite as the lines and conditions change.

Hope this helps.