The Chrono is lifty. And uber glide! (Soooooo much glide) But it's also pretty forgiving and so far. we haven't see it do anything we didn't tell it to.

The spare lines are for the bridle. They should have labels on them that correspond to bridle plan in the owner's manual. There SHOULD be a bridle plan supplement in the owner's manual. And yes, it comes with a spare safety bungee. All the ozones do as they use the non-bungee shorty leash and at some point (I have yet to see it happen) the bungee wears out. You would have to use the heck out it to get to that point.

Hey Chris while I've you in here answering questions....

I've read a post by you before talking about edge tune on your skis but I can't find it. I have an old pair of straight race skis that I'd like to put a kite specific tune on for ice conditions. I was going to try 3 degrees on the edge, and maybe 0 or 0.5 degrees on the base. Sound about right?

3 deg holds well but burns out fast. 2 degree is more user friendly and lasts longer. Try a fresh 2 and see how it treats ya.

Mind you, the skis my friends and I kite on, are tuned for riding the lakes. They would be treacherous for lift access/gravity based skiing.

Quote: Originally posted by Feyd

Mind you, the skis my friends and I kite on, are tuned for riding the lakes. They would be treacherous for lift access/gravity based skiing.

I'm starting to collect skis like I collect kites lol. These old things won't ever see the slopes. Some sweet late 80's K2's with matching Marker turntable bindings

I tried sharpening the edge last night but not sure it's going to work... The edge is almost flush with the side of the ski. When I set my file holder to 2 degrees, the file hits the side of the ski before it contacts the metal edge. So I'm shaving ski, not edge...

I might break down and buy some new old stock downhill racing skis on ebay. I reeeeaally need a ski for the ice and thin hardpack snow conditions. I've been using Volkl P40's and as soon as I load them up the ski wants to turn. I have awesome skis for deeper snow, but seriously lacking something that works when it's thin.

If you are hitting sidewall and not edge, you need a sidewall planer. Kinda $$$ but very handy. If you are steady handed like myself you can hit the sidewall with a dremel and cut it back. Most of my skis have caps and planers don't work on caps very well. The dremel gets it done but the risk of messing up is there.

The P-40 is has too much side cut. (although not enough by modern ski standards) I nice long SG or GS ski will treat you much better. :D

BTW, About packing the Chrono and the leading edge battens. They are tougher than you think and even Ozone states that unless you are racing or on an R1 there is no real need for the special bag. The worst I've see happen to the stiffeners is that they can twist inside the pocket that they are stitched into and deform the leading edge. 9 out of 10 they realign when the kite inflates fully and it's no problem. Worse case you massage them back into position.

We store our Chronos in the packs they came with. An we burrito roll everything.

Hmmm these look fast: http://www.coloradodiscountskis.com/store/product6803.html

That would help with my paranoia about a binding release when going over iced over tire ruts at 35mph

Well the wind started under 10mph and by the time I quit I couldn't feel it anymore, perfect Chrono weather! Still managed a 35mph run. Already getting comfortable on the kite and I love it more each time I fly it. The amount of depower control in the bar alone is pretty amazing. I'll attach a picture of my gps track. Upwind tacks are kind of sloppy, but I'm definitely getting better angles than on my other kites. I'm guessing if I was more powered up I could improve on that even further.



Speaking of tacks... I've been working on actual tacks (ski tips through the wind) instead of jibe-tacks (turning downwind and then back up on the new tack). I haven't been able to maintain any speed through the tack yet, but you lose zero ground during the maneuver. Anyone else trying this?

Quote: Originally posted by Memopad

Well the wind started under 10mph and by the time I quit I couldn't feel it anymore, perfect Chrono weather! Still managed a 35mph run. Already getting comfortable on the kite and I love it more each time I fly it. The amount of depower control in the bar alone is pretty amazing. I'll attach a picture of my gps track. Upwind tacks are kind of sloppy, but I'm definitely getting better angles than on my other kites. I'm guessing if I was more powered up I could improve on that even further. Speaking of tacks... I've been working on actual tacks (ski tips through the wind) instead of jibe-tacks (turning downwind and then back up on the new tack). I haven't been able to maintain any speed through the tack yet, but you lose zero ground during the maneuver. Anyone else trying this?

It looks like you are really getting to grips with the Chrono.
Tacking is an important part of buggy racing when you are beating up wind.
The trick is to get as much speed as you can and bring the kite up directly above your head slowly before the turn.
Once the turn is complete you can cross the kite over and bring it back down into the wind window.
It takes some practice getting the timing right but once you have mastered you will be doing all the time.
Then comes the suicide jibe, now that is fun in a buggy. not sure what it will be like on skis. I'll let you know if I manage it

2) don't be afraid to overbar steer. There's no rule that states that over bar is verboten and it's a technique that is really under utilized. Also with practice you'll learn to tip stall. Takes a lot of the work out of it.

whats "over bar steer"? please explain.

Over bar steering is when you grab additional line above the bar - taking your hand off the bar itself - to help the kite turn faster. You can find examples of it in this video at the 5 sec mark, or several examples in this video (13 and 27, 38 sec marks for example)

Not only does over bar steering allow you to turn the kite faster, you can also meter the amount of power the kite is producing through the turn by partially stalling one side of the kite (if you want to). It also puts a lot less strain on your wrists and is a very comfortable way of looping the kite once you get used to it - especially if you are doing multiple loops in a row for things like hill climbing.

Quote: Originally posted by Memopad

Hmmm these look fast: http://www.coloradodiscountskis.com/store/product6803.html That would help with my paranoia about a binding release when going over iced over tire ruts at 35mph

These skis, and others like them, are IMHO ideal for this application. You are absolutely zeroing in on the right type, viz., long, straight, and skinny. DH sidecut is ideal (50m+ ish) for this application since what you want to lay down is an endless straight carve.

eBay has a ton of DH skis too, but this seems decent for price. Go for it!

Quote: Originally posted by Windstruck

Quote: Originally posted by Memopad   Hmmm these look fast: http://www.coloradodiscountskis.com/store/product6803.html That would help with my paranoia about a binding release when going over iced over tire ruts at 35mph These skis, and others like them, are IMHO ideal for this application. You are absolutely zeroing in on the right type, viz., long, straight, and skinny. DH sidecut is ideal (50m+ ish) for this application since what you want to lay down is an endless straight carve. eBay has a ton of DH skis too, but this seems decent for price. Go for it!

They'll be here Tuesday, can't wait to try them out

I was going to go the ebay route, but it was becoming a hassle trying to find a good price on bindings that would work with the various older race plates that were on these DH skis. This combo takes the guess work out of it for me, and it really didn't seem like a bad price considering the bindings.

What DIN settings are you guys using for kiting? I'm not a pro level skier, but I have been skiing since I was 3 and am comfortable just about anywhere on a mountain aside from hucking off cliffs... I had the shop set my powder skis at an 8 or 9 DIN and that seems fine to me in soft snow. My question is more for the ice/hard/fast condition that these new skis will be in. I've taken some pretty hard hits with hidden ice chunks under the snow, and ejecting a ski at 40+ mph seems pretty terrifying. I also don't want to destroy my knees in a crash lol. Would a higher DIN be okay for kiting than normal slope use?

I'm 6'4 and around 230lbs.

Quote: Originally posted by nate76

Over bar steering is when you grab additional line above the bar - taking your hand off the bar itself - to help the kite turn faster. You can find examples of it in this video at the 5 sec mark, or several examples in this video (13 and 27, 38 sec marks for example) Not only does over bar steering allow you to turn the kite faster, you can also meter the amount of power the kite is producing through the turn by partially stalling one side of the kite (if you want to). It also puts a lot less strain on your wrists and is a very comfortable way of looping the kite once you get used to it - especially if you are doing multiple loops in a row for things like hill climbing.

The ozone bar system seems to be really good for this as you can use the rubber ends to yank the kite round

DIN settings. Set them at whatever the charts state. DIN is based on skier height, weight, boot sole length in mm and skier ability. (Beginner -xpert)

Race skis generally have race bindings. Usually race settings are outside the din charts. Essentially you would rather have the ski stay on at high speed under high load over releasing as a safety measure. Or, you would rather keep the ski on in hopes of recovery vs. releasing in hopes of keeping from being injured.

For my needs, 11 in the toe and 14 in the heels seems to strike the nice balance in a kite. I also like a bit extra forward pressure to keep things together if I accidentally over camber the ski.

Shops will set the din to whatever you want. But they will have you sign a waiver. :P

Quote: Originally posted by Memopad

Speaking of tacks... I've been working on actual tacks (ski tips through the wind) instead of jibe-tacks (turning downwind and then back up on the new tack). I haven't been able to maintain any speed through the tack yet, but you lose zero ground during the maneuver. Anyone else trying this?

I have been doing upwind turns on the buggy for a few years, but I haven't tried on skis. I imagine you could on ice since the resistance is pretty low. The hard part is finding the sweet spot between carrying enough speed to pull through the turn and getting lifted by the kite. It is like a slowed down pendulum jump if you are doing it right and you should feel very light, but still planted.

I needed more chrono in my life today...

Typical blowing 20mph all day till I get home from work, wind meter says it's blowing 12-13mph. In my experience, I should be well powered up on the 12m Summit at that point so that's the kite I brought out to the lake. HOWEVER there is a foot and a half of snow with a thick crust on top from freezing rain, so you break through and sink in snow but the crust offers a crap load of resistance. Like skiing through quicksand, ugh. So even though the kite was pulling fairly well I just wasn't going anywhere. Oh and naturally the wind dropped while I was out ending up around 5mph. I should've gone with the 18m chrono to start with, but I'm not used to needing that much power to get moving. The learning experiences keep piling up

So the Chrono 18 is a blast in 10-12kts if anyone was wondering :D Jumping it is like taking an elevator up to the 2nd or 3rd floor, and then sliding back down a water slide. Float for daaaaaays.

I was in about a foot of snow, 40 degrees and sunny so it was super wet/thick/heavy/sticky snow. Even fully powered up I only got 27mph out of the kite lol. Nice padding for crashes though :P

I've had some time on my 15m now and my experiences have been the same as yours minus anything over 12-13 wind.
Really had an example of the apparent wind acceleration this past weekend. We had 2-4" of soft snow on smooth ice that
provided a slick, easy to edge, quiet surface. The wind was 4-9mph sun shining, birds singing. Kite launch uneventful and
away we go. As I edged into the breeze we kept picking up speed with no wind increase. I made it to 24mph smooth as silk in silence with no fuss, leaning into the ride.

No question that the light air ride is the most expensive.
Might not it be the sweetest?

I agree with you on both counts, most expensive, and at least for me, the most fun. If every kite day was a 8-10kt day I'd die happy. With the chrono, depending on surface conditions I'd say 5-10kts and I'll die happy :D

Hi Guys,

Just a quick note on the Leading edge of the Chronos.
I was away on Ivanpah Dry lake last week and due to the lake bed surface being like concrete, I have worn parts of the leading edge down to the plastic batons. Not sure if it can be fixed yet, we'll see.
I guess I reverse launched about 4 times and during those times the damage was done.
I'm doubt very much that this will happen on snow but on Ice, I am pretty sure the same will happen if you drag the leading edge across it.
I don't think it is a problem with the kite. Rather something to be aware of when reverse launching on harder stuff

Fortunately it does not happen on snow and ice. Not unless you're super negligent and drag the leading edge a lot. The dual layers do well to protect against it on snow. Peak 1s suffered a similar issue but was improved upon with the peak 2 and the added layer of fabric which reduced the wear on leading edge batten fabric. The Ozones have always used multiple layers on the leading edge to reduce right so of burn through wear but anything that is rigid and wrapped in ripstop is going to wear quickly when in contact with the playa. Even packed beach sand doesn't seem to match the abrasion that a lakebed dishes out.

Depending on severe the burns are tape may do the job. We've seen good success with seam seal on the Peak 1. Worst case you have it patched which can be tricky with the leading edge radius but not impossible.

Quote: Originally posted by slapbasswoody

Hi Guys, Just a quick note on the Leading edge of the Chronos. I was away on Ivanpah Dry lake last week and due to the lake bed surface being like concrete, I have worn parts of the leading edge down to the plastic batons. Not sure if it can be fixed yet, we'll see. I guess I reverse launched about 4 times and during those times the damage was done. I'm doubt very much that this will happen on snow but on Ice, I am pretty sure the same will happen if you drag the leading edge across it. I don't think it is a problem with the kite. Rather something to be aware of when reverse launching on harder stuff

My 6.0m Flysurfer Peak3 suffered a similar fate:


[img][/img]


I deployed the safety going at over 40 mph and at least once dragged the edge of the kite on the band sander that is the playa surface. Not sure when I did this. I too wonder how I'm going to fix it. I have used this service in the past and been pleased with it:

http://www.fixmykite.com/

I plan to contact them in the near future and inquire as to whether they can perform this repair, how they would propose doing it and how much it would cost. I'll let folks know what I find out.

Sorry to hear about your kite too Steve,
Hopefully we can get them repaired

Quote: Originally posted by slapbasswoody

Sorry to hear about your kite too Steve, Hopefully we can get them repaired

Thanks Woody! Price of admission I'm afraid for stepping onto the playa (at least with my paltry skills). I think I did this over about 1-2 seconds. I remember dropping this kite's leading edge tip onto the playa when the kite was fully inflated and I was going at least 40 mph. Pretty much like dropping it onto a belt sander!

I got it off the ground very quickly so at least it's still a 6.0m kite and not a 5.5m!

I sent you an email about the repairs.