Ok this will be a fairly long post.
A few months ago came upon videos and pictures of the MK Splitter race quick release. The one place with the best description and a bunch of pictures is PTW page. Was really intrigued by the fact that it releases both the kite from you and you from the buggy simultaneously. Also really liked that the head rotates on a ball bearing making it easier to spin the handless without spinning the kite. Looked for one high and low, and besides the quite heavy price they are impossible to find. One came up on kites, landboards & buggies fb page a few months back and was snatched within 20 min.
So, always in search of a new project, I searched for pictures of the splitter online (most of them are on PTW page). Racked my brain for a few days and when I thought I had figured out how it worked, drew a few sketches and started machinning.
I have a mini mill and a mini lathe but not a machinist's skill so it took many hours to make (what they sell for does not seem that expensive anymore), and the finish leaves a lot to be desired. Finally complete, heavily tested in the house by pulling myself out of the buggy through a hook in the ceiling and it seems to work like the real thing. Will try a few times under real conditions (kite & buggy hooked to it) to make sure its good. Once i am 100% satisfied with functionality I will polish everything so it looks decent. Now to my question, does anyone have any ideas about how to seal and protect aluminum. Obviously there is anodizing, but i have no clue how to or where to do it. Does anyone know of any surface applications that give a fairly durable protective coat on aluminum.

What a great project, really hope it works as it's supposed to.

I've been in the trucking industry for 25 years and Ive polished plenty of aluminum in my time, just never put a sealer on it. Most aluminum wheels from Alcoa come with a clear coat protectant on it, but after time it starts to spider crack and peel. I've actually always hit the clear coat with acid to take it off and periodically polished the wheels to my desire with jewelers rouge and a microfiber cloth. As for sealing it I'm just not sure. There is that new stuff out called top coat and it's supposed to be pretty awesome. You could buy a bottle and apply it to this and the bottle would probably last years

This sounds like it was what I call an R&D project (review and duplicate). I do simular projects quite often. Your planning and fabrication work looks great for a first article. Safely test it and let us know how it works and if you continue to change and develop it, let us know how and why. Keep up the good work.

On my AQR for the carbine I used this product.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007RQ3MSC/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=...

I liked its adjustability in the field. I stated off shorter and kept making the leash longer after accidental releases. I also preferred this cheaper plastic one to the heavier aluminum one mainly because it was easier to adjust the cord in the cam mechanism.

As far as sealer goes I have either done a basic clear coat or just re polished as necessary.

I found "shark hide" at the local boat shop. It is made for aluminum parts on boats, a bit pricey but does the job.

I know 3M makes a Marine Aluminum Polish/sealer. Also you could probably use Mothers Aluminum Wheel Polish. On the ships, granted we dont have much aluminum. But what we do have we use Marine grade which is more resistant to corrosion. But we don't typically use any sealer.

Thank you guys. I did not realize that there are products made just for putting on aluminium like the one that Jeff mentioned above.
I thought if everything else fails I will put a coat of varnish on top and see how it holds up but after checking out shark hide, a few other similar products sold at marine stores came up. So will probably give one of them a try. if it starts peeling and cracking to quickly than I will go back to just polishing every so often.

I know for a fact that simple is best and Big Kids AQR works! Simple just like Jeff :D
I just had to put a longer pull lanyard on it for me to find.
If I would have been using it I would have never been lofted 4 years ago. Got in a hurry. Forgot.

As a rule I believe AQR's are good for our sport and our bodies. Every time you use one your
glad you installed one that's for sure! Sooner or later everyone will have a OOBE.

I was reading popeye's website on this. From what I understand it said that when the strop line was released, the pulley remains with the pilot and that the handles remained in the pilots hands. I could see the advantage of not having a pulley flying off but I do not see how the handles could remain in your hands. Let my know if I'm missing something...

With Jeff's style of AQR if it releases, you have a choice to hang on or not. I have learned not to hang on and if the handles fly off, they fly off.

I am currently using Jeff's AQR and it works very well. In the little time that i have been using it (three long outings to date) it has released once and I am not sure if I was on my way to an OBE or if I slid to far forward in the buggy and engaged the pull cord.
The MK works very similiar in that it releases the strop. At that point you either can continue holding onto the handles or let go/get the handless ripped out of your hands. Yes the hole contraption stays with you but it releases the strop as well as it releases the pull cord which remains with the buggy.

Cerokote clear works excellent. Incredibly durable and seals.
https://www.clearcoating.com/products/metals/

Would Cerokote be good for a new set of Sysmic rims?

Bling, bling

We all could use a little bit of aluminum in our buggy diet.

I've always been a fan of powder coating but not sure how it would work with a device such as that. Very durable and protective coating for car rims and such but might be a tricky application for something like that.

Thank you guys. A bunch of good ideas. From what I have seen powder coating leaves a relatively rough surface so not sure if it will work. I dont know how i did not think of cerokote because I have used it before on guns. The only problem with it is that while being very tough, if it chips it is almost impossible to patch. I will probably give a first try to one of the marine sealers similiar to shark hide.

I would consider black anodized
Or
Let it slowly self anodize.
Aluminum does that.
Not shiny but self protects.
Just be sure to rinse off salts where
dissimilar metals contact to prevent
electrolysis.

Quote: Originally posted by Wind_dog

Let it slowly self anodize. Aluminum does that.

Did you mean to stay oxidize?

self anodize more or less = self oxidize

My untrained belief is:
Anodization is oxidation done in a controlled, accelerated manner.
Anodized colored aluminum looks really nice (black looks best IMHO but scratches show)
Not sure how that holds up compared to powder coating.

Aluminum will naturally oxidize forming a self protective finish akin to anodization.
As long there is not contact with a less reactive metal in the presence
of an electrolyte (Think Stainless Steel in contact with aluminum and salt water)
aluminum lasts a very long time without additional protection.

PS. I remember decades ago when some frugal fellow sailors
wanted to protect CLEAN NEW aluminum masts they used
a poor mans anodize option:
1) Prime with Rustoleum zinc chromate primer (mustard yellow stuff)
2) finish with Rustoleum Gloss Black enamel

Thanks wind_dog.

Tested it this weekend riding (both Sat and Sun) and I am very satisfied with the end result. I think at this point I will go with Rich's advice and leave it unsealed. Just polish and shine and then do it again when it darkens up. After two uses I see scratches , so i think any sealer will rub off quite quickly.