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Author: Subject: So I've had a couple of flies on the Flow
Superdog
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[*] posted on 29-4-2009 at 05:38 AM
So I've had a couple of flies on the Flow


And it's a really fun kite, however the handles are linked by a rope (don't know the technical term for it) which restricts my control of the kite somewhat especially in left turns because my forearm isnt built up enough yet to brake-turn when the kite is powered up.

Is there a way to remove this without damaging the handles?

Sorry for such a noob question :(
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kiteNH
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[*] posted on 29-4-2009 at 06:29 AM


Its called a strop line. I removed it from my Ozone handles in the past. It wasn't hard to do. Not sure if the handles are still the same or if they've changed them. Post up a picture of the strop connection.
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[*] posted on 29-4-2009 at 07:04 AM


The way I remember it, you have to remove the kite lines from the leaders and the strop has to slip over the top and bottom ends of the handles to come off.



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[*] posted on 29-4-2009 at 09:53 AM


Bingo, just pick them apart carefully.

I'd say start trying Brake turns, slide your hand down from the top of the handle an inch or two.

Apply pressure to the top-backside of the handle with your thumb to help the first brake turns.

It doesn't require much strength and shouldn't require body building as a pre-reque.



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[*] posted on 29-4-2009 at 10:53 AM


hmm, i've just been told to hold the handle with my forefinger above the main lines which means moving my hand down is pretty hard. Should my finger be below the top line then?
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[*] posted on 29-4-2009 at 10:59 AM


No, keep your finger above the top line. With practice you will be able to get better at your brake turns.

To remove the strop (link line), first remove the flying lines from one handle only. Then pull the larks head knot apart that is holding the strop to the handle, slide the loop all the way over the top of the handle and pass the rest of the handle (and kite killer if attached) through the loop of the strop and it will then come off the handle. Once you get one handle off, just slide the strop out of itself from the other handle, reconnect your flying lines and your good to go.

The strop is a great tool if you are flying with a harness but it can get in the way if you are not. I hardly ever use a strop unless I am going to be hooked in.

Hope this helps.



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[*] posted on 29-4-2009 at 01:09 PM


You are holding the handles right !

I sometimes move down on my big kites when landing but still fly with one finger above.

You don't NEED the strop until you are ready to hook in.

I find I like my little home made Q.R. for releasing the handles in order to straighten things out.



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[*] posted on 29-4-2009 at 01:30 PM


I would leave the strop line attached so you learn good technique. I have found when teaching newer fliers one of their most common mistakes is using too large a motion to control the kite which leads to over control which leads to overcorrection which usually leads to a crash.

I put the strops back on the kites I let others fly so they understand that you don't need to crank your whole arm back or spread them out as far as possible to turn the kite you just need to flick a wrist forward while pulling the other wrist back. For instance, to turn left I pull on the bottom of the left handle while flicking the bottom of the right handle forward. You only need slight offsets from either handle to get the kite turning fast. The more (or less) the offsets the more (or less) speedy the kite turns.

I prefer to fly with all my fingers below the power leader but some handles make that far more easier to do than others. I have a set of ozone handles and my guess is I fly with my fingers below the leaders on them but I don't recall and I'm often hooked in which means I just need to pull on the bottoms of the handles to turn and definitely don't put the leader through my fingers when hooked in.



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[*] posted on 30-4-2009 at 02:19 AM


thanks for the tips guys.

Also with regards to brake lines me and my friend are trying to find the right balance...

What position should the handles be at when the kite is under no brake at all?

At what position should the brake lines start to be activated?
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[*] posted on 30-4-2009 at 03:28 AM


Quote:
Originally posted by USA_Eli_A
Bingo, just pick them apart carefully.

I'd say start trying Brake turns, slide your hand down from the top of the handle an inch or two.

Apply pressure to the top-backside of the handle with your thumb to help the first brake turns.

It doesn't require much strength and shouldn't require body building as a pre-reque.


i think Top Ten - Eli is trying to explain this for ya.

method a:
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o7/ripsessionkites/Misc/I...

method b:
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o7/ripsessionkites/Misc/I...



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[*] posted on 30-4-2009 at 06:54 AM


You have women's hands, my lord! :singing:

Either that or they're big diameter handles ... my PL ones are tiny, maybe 1/2 - 3/4 inch diameter. Get mega-cramps in the fingers after prolonged flying. And my middle finger gets crushed between lines and handles :( I've ordered some Flexifoil Pro handles from an online kite shop ... it took 3 weeks just to get to the point where they accepted that I'd agreed to the shipping costs :crazy:

Anyway my point being - where do I get big diameter handles? :lol:



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[*] posted on 30-4-2009 at 09:17 AM


Quote:
Originally posted by Superdog
thanks for the tips guys.

Also with regards to brake lines me and my friend are trying to find the right balance...

What position should the handles be at when the kite is under no brake at all?

At what position should the brake lines start to be activated?


The position of the handle depends upon how tight your brake lines are set up (i.e. what knot are the flying lines attached to on the brake leaders).

Its easier to address this by looking at brake line sag than by handle position. Most (not all but most) kites will fly better when their is a slight droop in the brake lines when the kite is close to the zenith and not in the middle of a turn.

Another thing to look for is a slight crease in the trailing edge of the kite when the kite is in a neutral position at the zenith.

Too much sag and the kite will be sluggish and possibly overshoot the zenith. Too tight lines and the kite won't make it to the zenith.



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[*] posted on 30-4-2009 at 09:20 AM


Yeah its all good, holding the handles with your forefinger above the top line is the second part to learning.

At our school we don't let you bring the kite up to the zenith until you can demonstrate bringing the kite to 45 degree angle, with nearly equal tension on all 4-lines, and then down, repeat this a few times successfully then you bring the kite to zenith. Then we go to the 'emergency landing' which is a hand position change applying full brakes.

As instructors we have to teach each one there limits and how to stay there safely.

Imagine wind at Ground Level feels 5mph, you bring your kite to 45 degrees and it's 30mph, WHAT DO YOU DO!? So putting your finger over the top leader is dangerous if you are learning because if you can't apply enough pressure to land it you could get pulled off your feet.

Not being able to turn your kite can lead to danger. So bring the kite up, use the brakes to bring it down.

I've taught probably close to 1,000 lessons, you can never be too careful. You will find 'intermediate syndrome' to be the case on this forum. Confidence can get you spanked. Staying within your limits will not. Take advice as you will, but know our biz relies on this sport not being banned. EACH entry level pilot should seek calm conditions or an intermediate/advanced pilot to share experience. Assuming your winds are variable you need to use more caution.

If you find time for a session at the coast I can demonstrate the correct hand positions while bringing the kite up.

This is what I do, kiting is who I am!

The flow is very easy to brake turn,

WHAT RICCO POSTED FOR PICS IS EXACTLY WHAT I'M TALKING ABOUT.


Quote:
Originally posted by Superdog
hmm, i've just been told to hold the handle with my forefinger above the main lines which means moving my hand down is pretty hard. Should my finger be below the top line then?




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ripsessionkites
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[*] posted on 30-4-2009 at 12:32 PM


Quote:
Originally posted by Kamikuza
You have women's hands, my lord! :singing:

Either that or they're big diameter handles ... my PL ones are tiny, maybe 1/2 - 3/4 inch diameter. Get mega-cramps in the fingers after prolonged flying. And my middle finger gets crushed between lines and handles :( I've ordered some Flexifoil Pro handles from an online kite shop ... it took 3 weeks just to get to the point where they accepted that I'd agreed to the shipping costs :crazy:

Anyway my point being - where do I get big diameter handles? :lol:


yes, i have small hands, and im small too.
The diameter of the U-Turn handles is stand, probably the same as the PL / Ozone diameter.

If you need a bigger diameter, the quick solution is to get Replacement Foam Handle Bar for bikes and double up.

you could also make your own handles from PVC Pipe too.

hope this helps. :smilegrin:



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Superdog
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[*] posted on 30-4-2009 at 02:52 PM


Quote:
Originally posted by USA_Eli_A


If you find time for a session at the coast I can demonstrate the correct hand positions while bringing the kite up.

This is what I do, kiting is who I am!



I live in the UK mate I guess from your name you do not ;)

I only fly on the coast though so get quite predictable winds, which is nice. will try moving my hand down a bit or maybe tightening the lines a little. Thanks for advice :)
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