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f0rgiv3n
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[*] posted on 11-9-2009 at 10:14 AM
Q-Powerline?


I was reading somewhere that you don't have to sleeve the 600lb qpowerline is this true? if so, how do you "terminate" the ends? What kind of knot do you do or what? i'm thinking about getting qpowerline and making my next set.



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[*] posted on 11-9-2009 at 10:49 AM


You are correct, no sleeving needed. Just melt the ends with a lighter and knot as preferred. Usually I use two single overhand knots to tie the loops in but others have used figure 8 knots which is said to be less stress on the lines.

Basically - fold it over and knot, hook up and go! :)

We have Q-Powerline already made up in pre-stretched lengths as well as bulk.



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[*] posted on 11-9-2009 at 01:56 PM


Thank you, that is what I needed to know!!



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[*] posted on 11-9-2009 at 05:18 PM


how is this possible. they claim it doesnt need to be sleeved but why? any photos?



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[*] posted on 11-9-2009 at 05:38 PM


I have Q powerlines on my Phantom custom made from CWS and they are figure 8 knotted with no sleeve. When I load up the Phantom real hard the kite actually moans, so those lines can take the pressure.



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[*] posted on 11-9-2009 at 09:29 PM


So can q-power line be spliced? is it a double braid or a 12 strand or something else?



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[*] posted on 11-9-2009 at 10:18 PM


Q line cannot be spliced, at least not in the traditional way (using the core of the line). The line is basically unbraided spectra surrounded by a very tightly woven sheath. The sheath allows it to be knotted without sleeving.

Hope that helps.



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[*] posted on 11-9-2009 at 10:25 PM


Sounds like it's spectra-core, and dacron-sheath.



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[*] posted on 12-9-2009 at 05:39 AM


Spectra core, Spectra Sheath.

The sheath is woven very tightly with the fibers at 90 degree angles to each other so that sand cannot work its way into the fibers and begin abrasion. The core takes all the load and the sheath is just protection. The sheath also helps the line hold its round cross-section shape under load which helps to cut down drag. Standard Dyneema lines will flatten like ribbons under load and vibrate, increasing its effective working diameter (and causes the "singing"). Q-PowerLine will sing, but at a much higher frequency, indicating less drag.

The Q-Powerline Pro has a smaller diameter and less drag for the same strength and less stretch. It does not need to be pre-stretched.

It is also very stiff line, which helps reduce tangles and bow-ties in a luff. In the picture below, the line with the loop tied in it is standing straight up in the vertical, like stiff wire. I only tie figure 8 knots and I hand-whip the loose ends. Figure-eight knots are 80% efficient, compared to overhand knots which are said to be about 50% efficient.

QLineExtComp.jpg - 70kB



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[*] posted on 12-9-2009 at 05:53 AM


Quote:
Originally posted by acampbell
The Q-Powerline Pro has a smaller diameter and less drag for the same strength and less stretch. It does not need to be pre-stretched.


The Pro portion of that statement is important, as regular Q-Powerline should be pre-stretched.



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[*] posted on 12-9-2009 at 08:48 AM


i think if i bought some of these lines i would still send them off to get sleeved and sewn. it would be worth the extra 10 or so bucks



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[*] posted on 12-9-2009 at 09:11 AM


Quote:
Originally posted by Houston AirHead
i think if i bought some of these lines i would still send them off to get sleeved and sewn. it would be worth the extra 10 or so bucks


its unecessarry... the outer shell acts as sleeving... i have used these lines... they work great



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[*] posted on 12-9-2009 at 02:01 PM


What does pre-stretched mean?



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[*] posted on 12-9-2009 at 02:05 PM


Pre-stretching means that you stretch the line before you tie it off to make sure that it's all the same length. Otherwise you'll come back from your first flight and find that all your lines are different lengths.



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[*] posted on 12-9-2009 at 03:06 PM


I have a carabiner hanging from an eye bolt in a tree in the back yard. From that spot, I have markers along the edge of the house and the front yard marking 10, 15, 25, 27 and 30 meter lengths. I put a loop in one end of the line with a figure-eight knot and hook it to the carabiner. After marking the length, I wrap the free end around a dowel a few turns. Using my 200 lb body weight, I lean back and give about 7 tugs, after which I feel no more stretch. Then I tie off the last loop. The amount of stretch I get makes up for the small amount of wasted line wrapped around the dowel.



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[*] posted on 12-9-2009 at 03:15 PM


Has anybody ever used a bowline? That's what's used on boats to tie loops...don't know it's efficiency.



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[*] posted on 12-9-2009 at 03:19 PM


Bowlines tend to work better on thicker materials. They are supposed to be at least as strong as the material that you're tying. The big problem with them is that they can potentially come undone if they are not under a consistent/constant load.



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