Google the materials used for grips on fishing rods. Hypalon is one of the better materials. The come in different lengths, internal diameters,
profiles (round, oval, octagonal, etc.), and materials.
The upside is that because of their intended use, they are generally well suited to salt water/UV environments.
Comes in
Round, oval, and trinagular/octagonal (harder to find) profiles
Various internal and external diameters
Various levels of cushioning
Assorted colors
Pre-Cut and Custom Lengths
Hope that helps.
ATB,
Sam
"I never had any friends later on like the ones I had when I was 12 - Jesus, does anyone?" - The Body by Stephen King
Not really the ends of the bar are still on with no visible ways of removing
them ie. no rivets :dunno: how you'd get a tube over it all with adhesive on the back :o
Will have a troll through a fishing store though ...
Originally posted by Kamikuza
Not really the ends of the bar are still on with no visible ways of removing them ie. no rivets how you'd get a tube over it all with adhesive on
the back
I was afraid of that. If you have bar ends that can't be removed, it's still doable. The Hypalon tubes can be very carefully sliced and glued to the
bar. You need to be careful not to use too much glue/contact cemet and use one that has a reasonable set time. Wait for everything to fully cure. To
address the seam, you can cover the hypalon in heat shrink. Fishing supplies stores sell a unique kind that office have a "flocked" grip pattern on
them. Diameter shrinkage is generally around 50%, with little of no decrease in length. Shrinking temperture is around 150 degrees farenheit, so
you don't have to worry about slagging other bits, although it wouldn't hurt to remove leaders and go slow.
Quote:
Originally posted by Kamikuza
Oh WHAT do they really use and where do they get it?!?!?!
If "they" is kite manufacturers, most use EVA foam tubes that are custom made and branded. They generally have the advantage of being able to
assemble the grips before the bar-ends are installed.
ATB,
Sam
"I never had any friends later on like the ones I had when I was 12 - Jesus, does anyone?" - The Body by Stephen King
I found some thin (2mm) EVA foam sheets (about 14"x17") in a variety of colours at a dollar store in the crafts section. I saw the same stuff at a
bigbox craft store too.
I cut it slightly over sized so one side overlaps the other, glued it with a waterproof outdoor contact cement to an aluminum bar I made. Trim the
overlap off with a sharp knife to achieve a nicely butted up fit at the joints.
2016 CORE Section wave 6m and 9m
CORE Sensor2 controlbar
2016 5'2" North WHIP surfboard
Zeeko Spitfire XLW foil and 5'0 custom foilboard
Electric Outback MountainBoard
Any old $100 snowboard
I'd like to avoid glue ... as with electronics, I have a very poor success-rate with glue and it ends up absolutely everywhere, don't ask me how. Hence the desire for self-adhesive stuff :D tape I do ok with
What ZeroG found sounds like what I've found - on the net personally, I'd rather
pay to have stuff glued though Looking at Chinook now ...
I think I went the route I took because at the time Chinook grip needed to be glued on and I was having trouble sourcing a better solution too.
Here are some illustrated instructions for glueing (it's technique and tips would apply for tape too)... How to regrip a boom
2016 CORE Section wave 6m and 9m
CORE Sensor2 controlbar
2016 5'2" North WHIP surfboard
Zeeko Spitfire XLW foil and 5'0 custom foilboard
Electric Outback MountainBoard
Any old $100 snowboard
How about this stuff? 2mm medium density EVA foam ... self adhesive tape ... won't ever find out if it feels right without just buying some though :o
am betting i get raped on shipping but
If the bar is eventually bound to the water, make sure the adhesive is marine grade. Some adhesives don't maintain their integrity in salt water
environments and the result in not pretty.
ATB,
Sam
"I never had any friends later on like the ones I had when I was 12 - Jesus, does anyone?" - The Body by Stephen King
Bought from a boating site, they're used as deck grips for optimists and things ... I have a spare bar to test on too we'll see - I've blown more money on stranger tests :D
I’ve thought about this issue/problem allot. I’ve come to pretty good conclusion.
Step 1 Dissemble depower bar
Step 2 dip in a latex/poly-blend paint of your choice. (this will be up to you) I’m not going to do your research.
Step 3 reassemble and have fun
2011 17 Best Taboo
2008 Caution Mayhem 9m
Flysurfer Speed 5 15m
Legend 3
Ace II 8 - for sale rarely used....
You were bored one night and posted pics of a container that you found/modded for storing something... forgot what exactly, but you had basically
created a little niche/compartment for all the related things.
ATB,
Sam
"I never had any friends later on like the ones I had when I was 12 - Jesus, does anyone?" - The Body by Stephen King
Got them the other night - looks just like the real thing! Did a trial mount onto a pole thing - worked fine, looks good ... should be the shizzle!
Now, to figure out how to get the bar ends off ....
Just ordered some Wilson tennis overgrips to re-wrap a bar. Will post the results. If that doesn't work, I will probably just use hockey tape or see
if I can find some EVA foam and Aqua seal.
I've done tennis grip and bicycle grip (the non-cork) with success in the past. Depending on the size of tear or if I'm replacing the whole thing. I
love that bicycle grip comes in so many colors, and has worked out a bit better for me than tennis grip. Let us know how the overgrips go Proletariat,
that stuff is always so thin, I can't see using it as the bottom layer.
Cool. I'll post before / after pics. The factory grips on the north 5th element are totally trashed. Seems to be a theme with these kites (as is
valve failure?). I'm peeling the whole damn thing off and starting over. The bar is pretty thick so I was just going to wrap it as is.
Should I use cement, aquaseal or something else on the wrap or just wrap it tight and secure the ends?