I got a recent request for a buggy rack build. I talked to numerous folks on what would make a good buggy rack. These are my build requirements:

1) sturdy : with some kind of hitch locking system to prevent swaying
2) Universal : fit on standard 2" hitch and fit most buggy
3) compact : easily to stow away when not in use

Here's a sneak peak ... I still need to finish adding hook attachments, the rubber pads, and paint. All main tubing are 3/16" thick wall and supporting tubing at 1/8" wall.

more pics on my website album .. http://www.vantantech.com/buggies/Gallery/Rack/

I could give you some advice here dude, the bit the axle sits in, get some pipe clamps(plumbers) they plastic and split in two. Sits snug around the axle and top and bottom fasten with allen key bolts. You wont need bungees to tie down the axle. Just some feedback, other than that it looks good

like this

http://i01.i.aliimg.com/photo/v0/243537879/Heavy_Series_Pipe...

Cheers
D

those pipe clamps look really nice and secure. I've never seen those before.

Great tip KiteBoyza.
Beamer: I am not sure if many hardware stores have them, but plumbing supply houses should. They are called pipe clamps or tube clamps depending on who you talk to. Here in the US, Behringer Corp is a major mfg/supplier of them. If they will not sell direct then you can order them from Applied.com, they have 350+ stores nationwide. Just put "Behringer" in the search field and hit search...

An nice thing about these is those clamps are modular by design. One size metal plate can have plastic inserts for a variety of tubing sizes. Hopefull many of the buggies are in the same size "range" that way you could buy one size of metal plates to keep onhand for orders and then just provide the appropriate size plastic insert for the customer's buggy.

Quote:

Originally posted by BeamerBob those pipe clamps look really nice and secure. I've never seen those before.

we been using them for a long time in Europe, you can also make a double buggy rack with those clamps. I used to transport a race buggy on bigfoots and one on discs like that, similar sort of rack :wee:

They make all the sizes needed. Replace the bolt with something you can tighten with your hands and done. No straps.

Quote:

Originally posted by kiteboyza Quote: Originally posted by BeamerBob those pipe clamps look really nice and secure. I've never seen those before. we been using them for a long time in Europe, you can also make a double buggy rack with those clamps. I used to transport a race buggy on bigfoots and one on discs like that, similar sort of rack :wee:

You have pics of that rack? I'm already talking to Van about a double buggy rack.

no but I can do you a rough drawing and scan and email it, u2u me a email addy dude

That's a nice idea with the pipe clamp. I was gonna line the bracket with the rubber non slip piece but those clamps looks nice!!

btw .. I added an additional piece on the hitch tightener to really beef it up. I jumped on it trying to get it to budge and it wouldn't even move a millimeter so it's totally solid. Feels like it's part of the vehicle.

Van - Here is another idea to help lock the rack to the hitch on the vehicle. This is how my Yakima trailer hitch bike rack mounts to counter swaying

second pict

3rd pict

How does that apply pressure between the hitch and insert? Just tightening up the nut just squeezes the hitch tube doesn't it? You need something inside the tube it seems.

On my pictures? the inside of the tube (3rd picture) is threaded on one side... it does not pinch the hitch, it tightens that side of the rack against the side of the hitch... the other side of the "bolT" is just a pin to engage the other side of the hitch and rack as well.

I know exactly what you mean .. I thought about doing something similar but the solution I came up with was the simplest and its full proof. I jump up and down on it and it wouldn't even budge so it's solid. It does pretty much the same with both method. The idea is just to tighten the side of the tubing against the hitch receiver. This method also allows me to choose what bolt size to use. I almost went with a 3/4" bolt but thought it was over kill so went with 5/8 since it's happy medium between the 3/4" and my usual 1/2" bolts.

Van ,you can custom fit it by welding a few beads on one side and sanding it down with a flapdisc
until it just slides in. I have also used sheet metal and welded it to the side to take up the slop. The movement isn't gonna hurt anything,it's just annoying to the driver.

Makes sense van, just wanted to share other ideas in case you had not seen or might like better.

Your idea has the added benefit in that you (or any user) can buy a locking hitch pin at the local auto store and secure the rack to the vehicle!

Quote:

Originally posted by van I jump up and down on it and it wouldn't even budge so it's solid.

If you weighed 200lbs it would be something to talk about but you can't weigh more than 100 or so right?;-) I can picture you out there jumping on the back of the car.:wee:
Looks good, any thought of how to lock the bug to prevent theft or loss?

I figure none of the buggy weighs more than me .. hahaa.. I did take my black widow buggy with bigfoots which is pretty heavy. I am guessing around 120 lbs?? Drove on the highway , did some donuts in the parking lot .. no sway and the buggy was still there. Good point on the anti theft device. This would mean some type of locking clamp?? The hard part is the rack comes apart. Even if the axle is locked to the rack, that part of the rack can be removed with one bolt. Each one of the piece will have atleast one ring for strap attachment so maybe you can use something like a bicycle locking cable??

Looks great! Using something like those pipe clamps would really deter theft in themselves,(take too long for your average thief to mess with) but you could probably modify one of the clamps to accept a lock. Fine work!

Hi Van, top effort and I really like the folding top feature. First class job.

I find where you have welded the nut to the outside flat side of the square tube on the base (to restrain the internal square tubes) that it will still rock from side to side unless done up really tight. This then compresses/ distorts, the internal square, as the bolt is compressing the flat side.

The trick is to weld the nut to one corner of the RHS first and then drill the hole through the nut undersize and then tap it out to the correct thread.
By doing this there is plenty of thread for strength. The pinch bolt takes out all movement, as its pushing the internal square tube into a corner. More importantly its loading the internal tube on its corner where it has the most strength/support and will have less distorsion. Fit a lock nut onto the bolt before fitting it and when done up they will never work loose.
I welded a nut onto the corner of my reciever on the car and solved the wobble as well.
Hope this helps.
PS. I LOVE your workshop toys!!!!!!!!!
Cheers Chook

Quote:

Originally posted by bigkid Quote: Originally posted by van I jump up and down on it and it wouldn't even budge so it's solid. If you weighed 200lbs it would be something to talk about but you can't weigh more than 100 or so right?;-) I can picture you out there jumping on the back of the car.:wee: Looks good, any thought of how to lock the bug to prevent theft or loss?

First laugh of the day! This makes me picture a squirrel jumping up and down on the rack. Van is not Little Ricky's size in his defense.


Van the rack is looking fantastic. Loading and unloading 3 buggies yesterday makes me eager to have a double buggy rack.

Chook,

I knew there were other great mind on this forum!! I was gonna have TWO bolts, one on each side to prevent movement in both direction but your idea of a nut on the corner is very smart. I just need to find a simple and easy way to weld the nut into the corner like that. So much easier to weld on a flat surface. The gap is only 1/16" between the tubes so there's not much room for movement. I've size the tubing thickness to withstand the bolt pressure so shouldn't have any distortion issues unless you are tightening the bolt with an impact wrench :tumble: The bolts will all have an extra nut on there to act as a jam nut. btw .. I've made 2 more so if anyone is interested, hit me up.

This works for me on my rack to keep down theft.

http://www.etrailer.com/Locks/Master-Lock/1470DAT.html


They are asdo avail. at Walmart and Kmart.

I was gonna question your wieght as well! :P But I'm late on the list:tumble:

You would be surprise what I used to weigh before I got married .. it wasn't that far from Jeff's guess. It's amazing what good food can do for you. :singing:

Sounds like you have it under control beautifully as is always the case. (I like your ideas)

To weld the nut on, I just thread the nut onto a long bolt a few turns and use this handle to position it while I tack weld it into position. By drilling the hole through the nut after welding and then tapping the thread, the position isn't as critical.
Always remove the bolt before it cools as the fully welded nut will shrink and nip onto the bolt.

Keep up the great work.

Chook

I finished up the first one and ready to be ship out to Todd. Only thing that I might need to modify is the hitch pin position. It seems that this hole is not standard so it's a different distance from the hole to the end of the hitch for each vehicle. I might have to make an elongated hole to accomodate different vehicles.

Here's some final product pics:

That is a SEXAY lookin rack!

Van, you need to put your signature on these because they are going to be all over the country. I wish I could get enough time to design a double rack and get it cooking.