Anyone have a good source for thin spectra for building bridles for power kites. It needs to be uncoated since I initially plan on splicing the loops so that I can adjust each line individually. I used to have a small tool for this but couldn't tell you where it went. So a source for that would be great too.

I was thinking of using multiple weights of line like 50lb feeding 100lb. Anyone tried this?

awindofchange.com
windstarkites.com
kitebuilders.com

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Originally posted by mdpminc awindofchange.com windstarkites.com kitebuilders.com

From what I can see all the spectra is coated. Not sure about the Shanti though. I'll have to call to be sure.

I've heard that the fishing spectra line has a sticky coating which might work for my application, not sure I need some samples to be able to determine usefulness.

I got mine from goodwinds.com, it came in colors also. Worth a look, they are in WA State.

50 and even 100 # is pretty light for power kite bridles IMO. I believe I read recently that Flysurfer uses 100kg lines on their weakest bridle connections.

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Originally posted by B-Roc 50 and even 100 # is pretty light for power kite bridles IMO. I believe I read recently that Flysurfer uses 100kg lines on their weakest bridle connections.

Flysurfer use pound rated little break away loops between the bridle and kite's loop so they can use stronger line?
Maybe ????:puzzled:

I think it depends on how many bridles you are talking about...

Take a Vapor and there are not too many bridle lines on it!

You can use different strengths on the main -> secondary lines and so on.

I would think 100lb would be the lightest I would try.

Just my 2 cents:

+1 for Goodwinds, good stuff, great service !
Corey at windpowersports dot com has some nice fine fids (spleevers) and Spectra 1000 in 50, 90, 150 and 200 weight as well.

I've used 100 over 150 on up to an 8m NPW style wing with good results.

I can't find it any more but look for "super thin" super glue to set your back splices permanently. It wicks into the splice nicely and doesn't degrade the line.

depending on what the bridle set up is like and the load distribution you really don't need excessively strong/thick lines. A NPW has a little more direct loading than the final legs on a foil - 100lb should be fine for the legs attached to the kite and progressively stronger outward. Depends if you looking to get speed out of a kite. If you were boosting big air and hanging off the kite then go stronger.

Sheathed Spyderline with sewn loop is killer but a PITA. Single braid spectra is easier. Like greasehopper said, 100# primaries and 150# secondaries if the kite is old school bridled almost every rib. But I'd think more like 150-200# primaries and 250-300# secondaries for kites with dribs where you are only bridling every third rib.

My new favorite Spectra line is Jerry Brown line:
http://www.meltontackle.com/products/jerry-brown-line-one-ho...

Brummel splices are most secure. But standard eyesplices do allow you to tune line length if you leave the tails long and hanging out. But you have to clip and glue or sew them. Brummel splice how-to
http://www.neropes.com/SPL_12Strand_EyeSpliceBrummel.aspx

The best fid for kite bridles is homemade - see the pic. Music wire with a diamond shaped eye bent in the middle. Then chuck in a drill and wind it up. Drill a hole in a dowel and epoxy a lot of the twisted shank into it for a handle.

krumly

I have Shanti line in stock and also some small fids.

Laser Pro is coated, you will need to scrape off the wax first if you want to splice it. Shanti is un-coated which is nice because it doesn't pick up the dust and dirt as easily as the coated line. Shanti Warp Speed Line is 100% spectra. Shanti Skybond is a poly-modulus bonded Spectra line that would be very difficult to splice.

Quote:

Originally posted by krumly The best fid for kite bridles is homemade - see the pic. Music wire with a diamond shaped eye bent in the middle. Then chuck in a drill and wind it up. Drill a hole in a dowel and epoxy a lot of the twisted shank into it for a handle. krumly

How do you attach the wire to the drill to "wind it up"?

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Originally posted by B-Roc How do you attach the wire to the drill to "wind it up"?

Guitar string works but it gets a bit fat for use on small line like 50 lbs. I find it difficult to position the wire in a drill chuck, I use a pair of safety wire pliers for a bit more precision. Harbor Freight has them occasionally. Ebay has listings all the time at around $20 a copy. Find an airframe mechanic, he's probably got a red tag bag full of them.

For the fid, make the loop and clamp that in a vise or pliers. Just grip the pair of ends in a drill chuck and wind. If the wire is too fine for your chuck, bend the ends back once, even twice, to give you more grip area.

With fine piano wire, I can go down to 50-75# line if it's a loose braid.


krumly

Krumly, do you push or pull your fid if splicing line. I'm thinking it is more of a pull with that configuration. Meaning I'd first enter the line where the tail will be buried, push it down, loop the bitter end in the diamond and then pull it up and out, correct? Or how do you secure the line for a push?

Lots of suggestions and ideas. I like the DIY fid, I'll have to make one of those. Looks like I'll be calling you soon Kent. I'll have to try the uncoated shanti first. Low cost if I remember right.

BTW, I am rebridling an RM+. Boyza says a 30% increase with proper tweaking, gotta see if I can get there. Haven't decided on what size to start with, maybe a 5 or 6.

B-Roc: Pull the line with the fid. I always taper cut the bitter end, and you don't have to hook much in the fid to get it to wedge tight while you pull.

I have a set of Samson push fids for heavier line 3/16" + diameter. I gotta say for single braid up to 5/16" these homemade pull fids are much easier to use. Cheap, and you can make them any length and whatever stiffness you want. My local hobby/model supply shop has music wire in a wide range of diameters.

krumly