So Once again Thanks to G00f for the CL.

I am pulling the softloop system off my Depower bar and converting to a mroe up to date set-up.

So I have bar, PL Zero4CL, camcleat, couple pulleys.

My 1st queation is, what is a typical throw range for the bar, from depower to full power? The old 2 line softloop set-up had a maximum physical throw if ~15" is that more than normal, less?

The line on the 04 is only 20" and will need to loop thru the camcleat, so lookingh at losing quite a bit of travel, but does it matter? Ihave long arms so I could use long travel, but I know there must be a limit to the overal AoA change a kite can use?

I think the Zero7 bar that came with the V2's had about 26cm of trimstrap and about 33cm of depower line bar throw that could be extended to about 37cm by moving the stopper ball up the line. You should be aiming for something close to that to get the most out of the V2.

Thanks Zero! I just opened up the Arc set-up page. (I saved it to my Hdd) and see that for the 07 bar. Given I have a camcleat I can get the adjustment no problem and not affect overall bar throw. I just have to undo a few lines.

I will take a few picts one I have it roughted up to see what you all think.. Now the fun begins!!!:wee:

OK,
Based on the "arc setup" page and the 07 bar( original bar for V2) measurements here is what I came up with. I am going to end up re-using the double length line originally with the bar. 1. it is already firmly attached to the cam cleat.
2. It is thiner and the line that came with the CL will not fit thru the bar.

Click on picture to open full res version.

I will knot and feed the line thru the built in sleeve of the cam cleat, then thru the pulley and back down thru the cleat mechanism. The Arc set-up page shows 90-380 adjustment which is 290mm (11.5") so that will be my goal for adjustment, maybe shoot for 12"

370-390mm of movement between the two stopper balls. Should I cut the black tubing at the cam cleat back a ways and put the non adjustable stopper behind the free floating stopper ball, so it does not chip the sheathing away if I release the bar against it? Can it depower to far?

Nothing fancy here I will loop the line thru and under itself like the original line that was with the CL then knot it off. The excess I will use up on the Camcleat if long enough, if not I will buy more line. The small lines are original to the set-up, one being a sliding ring that I will connect to leash to flag the kite out.


Thoughts? Do I have it set-up properly overall? The booty in the last picture will of course be put over the qr assembly to hold the safety ball up for easy access..

1. Setup the bar and lines in a place you have enough room to stretch all the lines.
2. Tie the chicken loop line to clamcleat block. Use a bowline knot as on the arc page. (if you have an adjustable stopper ball add it on the line)
3. Fasten all 4 line ends that are at the kite to an anchored point
4. Adjust the depower line in the clam cleat until the bar is pulled tight against the loop and all 4 lines have tension.
-This should be the stall setting for the kite. make a knot in the line at this point
5. If you have a ball with a hole add it to the line so it is something you can grab on to to adjust the trim.
6. pull in the trim a few inches to launch.

Ok - you added pictures since my post.
Looks good. The only dodgy part now looks like the front line going through the pulley loop. Make sure there is enough clearance that the line can go through the loop without binding up or snaping. Obviously your leash goes to that. Maybe use another ring than what is on the pulley.

Here is a great video showing modifications kiteboard race champions are using much in line with the clamcleat setup you have. The big difference is their kites safety on the two front lines. an arc must flag out on a single front line. So you will have to make sure that front line is clear for travel.

My set-up is going to roughly mirror the 1st set-up shown in the video with the 1:1 adjuster, Only I have a different camcleat.
The dark part on my cam cleat is hollow, and the line goes thru it. On the original dual line soft loop the line slid thru that and around a big block then thru the cleat. I am just using it to anchor my adjustment line and using a smaller, cleaner pulley. I do not have it assembled in my picts as I need the thinner 6mm line to be cut off the other line to feed thru. The pulley assembly in my pictures was what came with the rig. I am 99% I will replace the small lines off the pulley soon, they look tired.

Thanks to the step by step, that was my next question was how to set baseline WOOT!

You can see in the video the guys setting the baseline as well as they pull the bar against the end of the CL and the adjuster line knot is at the end of travel in the clamcleat.

Yeah, GREAT video AD!

nice , once you get some fly time on it . then you can tweak it to favor top end or lower end.

i have couple bar/line sets without trim or means of adjustment, mostly favored to DEPOWER so i can take it out in 30mph or 8mph.

you got it, very nice

Well build is done! Picture below. Simple, basic, clean. still have to do the line tention test like in the video. I will likely redo the powerlines above the slipring as they are looking freyed and this new set-up added length to the power lines vs rears.




I also want to work on setting everything up as "kook proof", but need the kite back so I can see how it's pigtails are set-up..

nice , looking above the pulley on the slide ring, too many knots going thru that . take out the leaders on the main . larks head right to the ring with the sleeved line front line.

its a lot to pass thru, it will work but whipping bitter ends/knots will catch. leaders only on the bars ends.
always pass thru a fixture with a larks head...like the ring, like the CL, like web strap loops. knotting a bow line is a LAST RESORT if the other end is fixed.

pic helped a ton.

thanks fo the tips phree!!

Hoping weather hold so I can hook up lines tonight.

Who makes that aftermarket mod to the Clam Cleat? I have an older Slingshot bar set up similarly,except machine screws go directly through the cleat, then the line, then into a ss t-nut. Total PITA to replace. This looks like simple machining on a piece of Delrin.

And AD72's link to the race rigs video is great. Clean and simple, lots of throw. Like it. Lamrith - one problem with the 2:1 setup like this and big red stopper ball is you end up with a huge amount of loose rope hanging down like a pendulum, either just out of reach or flopping around your other lines. The set-ups in the video take care of that by securing the loose end. I think Ozone bars deadend the trim line down near the bar too.


krumly

Mine is only a 1:1, not a 2:1 like is mentioned in the video. I think the 2:1 would require a block with 2 pulleys?

Max adjust I will have about 11" of adjustement. I like the looping back idea also, but ran out of line. What you see is every 0.1" of line I had available. once I egt some time on it I can re-evaluate and maybe lengthen the adjustment line so it loops back like in the video.

The Camcleat I have came with my bar. It is something most likely made for WindWign back in the day. The black piece like you said is probably delrin with a hole thru it.

It goes over a pulley so you get the mechanical advantage so it is a 2:1. 2 Pulleys is a 3:1.

DOH! To true, I should have known that!:dunno:

I just can't wait to get this rig in the air!!