anyone know where I can get this? I am having trouble with the German website where I found this.

These are what you actually want. You have to remove the hinge rivet and replace it with a bolt or push pin.

2673 Wichard

1375 Holt Allen Block

Thanks Bob! Thats what I was looking for.

Quote:

Originally posted by BeamerBob 2673 Wichard 1375 Holt Allen Block

The HA1375 is the better of the 2, remove the catch, and getting in and out of it will be much easier. IMO. Also remove the screw holding on the roller and the bearings and apply some locktite to the threads, then you wont be out of luck when it does fall out.

Heliboy have you had any moments ??

How did it perform??

:dunno::dunno:

Still pretty new set up for me but feels pretty good. Past experience has told me that qr's are really only good after the first bounce, but it released quite nicely when Sean grabbed ahold of it and started dragging me.

Ditto BK and BB , one of my smaller HA4475 snatch blocks fell apart on me. You will love that setup on your Vipers.

Thanks guy's! I am going to rig this to an auto release, I have 5 kids to raise

I have been not able to get some pics of my QR so I will try to explain.
On the pic from heliboy, I replaced the ball with a steel ring. and the part that makes my set up better for me is,
I welded a piece of round stock to the end of the down tube where it fastens on to the siderail under my butt(mine is 7" long). I then ran an adjustable strap with a larks head around the round stock up through the drain hole in the seat(on one seat I put a new one in the right spot). At the end of the strap that comes right up as close to the family jewels as possible and with an easy workable catch of some sort, connect it to the ring on the wichard. Leave enough length to fly from side to side and then at the zenith. As you come up off the seat about 2" or so the strap come tight and pulls the wichard.
If you want to add KS-P-A-M-L-I-N-K-s to the system, instead of wearing them on your wrist, IMO, connect them to the down tube as close as possible to the fork.

EDIT- I don't remember about the kid part, but I do have a bunch of G-kids, the pain of a bad OBE is far worse.
The extent of an OBE is either a laughable story, or byby. IMO

Quote:

Originally posted by bigkid I have been not able to get some pics of my QR so I will try to explain. On the pic from heliboy, I replaced the ball with a steel ring. and the part that makes my set up better for me is, I welded a piece of round stock to the end of the down tube where it fastens on to the siderail under my butt(mine is 7" long). I then ran an adjustable strap with a larks head around the round stock up through the drain hole in the seat(on one seat I put a new one in the right spot). At the end of the strap that comes right up as close to the family jewels as possible and with an easy workable catch of some sort, connect it to the ring on the wichard. Leave enough length to fly from side to side and then at the zenith. As you come up off the seat about 2" or so the strap come tight and pulls the wichard. If you want to add KS-P-A-M-L-I-N-K-s to the system, instead of wearing them on your wrist, IMO, connect them to the down tube as close as possible to the fork. EDIT- I don't remember about the kid part, but I do have a bunch of G-kids, the pain of a bad OBE is far worse. The extent of an OBE is either a laughable story, or byby. IMO

Good Info! Thanks!

not sure I can bring myself to let anyone touch my buggy with a welder maybe I can replace one of the bolts that connects the down tube to the side rails with an eye bolt?

from a strikley rigging point those are some nicely machined blocks mabe a tad tight on the strop for beach use

link

Quote:

Originally posted by silvereaglekiter from a strikley rigging point those are some nicely machined blocks mabe a tad tight on the strop for beach use link

thats not a bad price, may have to order a couple for R&R. the wichard is the same style I use.

Quote:

Originally posted by MDK not sure I can bring myself to let anyone touch my buggy with a welder maybe I can replace one of the bolts that connects the down tube to the side rails with an eye bolt?

We tried that, not a good out come. If you are pulled out of the bug forward you have to travel to far before it deploys. You will end up with a seconded belly button from landing on the top of the fork.
Mine will deploy as soon as I leave the seat, in any direction. The more distance you travel before the deployment the greater the risk of injury. I don't want to travel at all.
One thing I forgot to mention is the clip on the end of the strap, or the ring on the wichard as to be strong enough to deploy the wichard but week enough to break if you have to exit the bug. Mine with break at 200lbs pressure, but will deploy with only 18lbs pressure.

Just trying to wrap my brain around this so be patient with me…. I think I understand that the auto strap is connected to the buggy and the wichard and will release the wichard from your harness but is the wichard and block not still connected to the buggy?

Edit: and most importantly by a strap next to the jewels? :o

Quote:

Quote: We tried that, not a good out come. If you are pulled out of the bug forward you have to travel to far before it deploys. You will end up with a seconded belly button from landing on the top of the fork. Mine will deploy as soon as I leave the seat, in any direction. The more distance you travel before the deployment the greater the risk of injury. I don't want to travel at all. One thing I forgot to mention is the clip on the end of the strap, or the ring on the wichard as to be strong enough to deploy the wichard but week enough to break if you have to exit the bug. Mine with break at 200lbs pressure, but will deploy with only 18lbs pressure.

I see your point with the location of the auto strap connection, I may drill a hole and mount an eyebolt to the end of the down tube directly below my seat.

But still a little confused with the rest.

I hope to feel better by this weekend and if so will post a vid or pics.

Quote:

Originally posted by bigkid I hope to feel better by this weekend and if so will post a vid or pics.

Fantastic! Thanks!

I have that style Wichard but every time that style is shown, multiple people say it won't release under load and the pin will pull all the way out. I've seen them where the pin pulled out, but mine never failed to open when I've tested it. I've never tried to open it under duress. I have since gotten the exact same setup as heliboy shows and he was more than helpful. Many thanks for the help!

ah yes "light Bulb" thats the diference.. with the wichard I pictured above the pin pulls out and disconnects the auto strap from the wichard but with the one in Heliboy's pic there is no pin to disconect from the auto strap. right?

I have an identical setup as BK but instead of welding anything I simply used a kite killer ,wrist strap arround side rail , stretchy leash as short as possible, cheap plastic keyring snap connecting leash to the winchard.
A strap type connection at your downtube siderail joint and a tensioned strap from there to your back axel will give you a point to fasten to below the family jewels and result in a short "travel to disconnect".
I may shorten mine and actualy start using it after my recent OBE at WBB , damn near broke my hip and that was with hip and butt pads on.

Quote:

Originally posted by MDK ah yes "light Bulb" thats the diference.. with the wichard I pictured above the pin pulls out and disconnects the auto strap from the wichard but with the one in Heliboy's pic there is no pin to disconect from the auto strap. right?

Right, just an arm that is spring loaded. You pull the release line and it pulls the arm down and allows the bail to fly open.

the difference is... with the pin type ,after a while.... Grit and debris get in and gall up the stainless pin and make it have a great amount of friction, which makes it HARDER to release. Mine is a 2673 TORSION wichard,not the pin type. The pin type are fine when new , but after sand and grit take their toll. Let's just say, mine's got way less friction to overcome. And, in a OH $@!& ! moment,every millisecond could count!

Quote:

Originally posted by WELDNGOD the difference is... with the pin type ,after a while.... Grit and debris get in and gall up the stainless pin and make it have a great amount of friction, which makes it HARDER to release. Mine is a 2673 TORSION wichard,not the pin type. The pin type are fine when new , but after sand and grit take their toll. Let's just say, mine's got way less friction to overcome. And, in a OH $@!& ! moment,every millisecond could count!

Your right WG, but as anyone who is in this sport, needs to check and double check there gear. You wouldn't fly with a line that was frayed and about to break, or use your bug with a loose axle bolt, right? We keep our gear in top shape or things happen more than they should.
I use the pin style wichard, and have replaced it once from not cleaning it enough, but most of that was due to R&R.
When I was Hang gliding, it was part of the set up ritual to have another pilot check your wing before you flew, they wouldn't miss something that you did.

The one WG speaks of is more sensitive to the touch as the pin style will require more input, to release.

I did notice that the guys who have the setup that MDK found also have a spreader bar with a ring instead of a hook,

well there shouldnt really be a debate between the two, I can see where the pinless would be a little better but wont work with an auto release. with the auto release we have to use the pin style so that the kite will detach from the harness and the buggy.

okay so I guess the pin dose not come all the way out? I guess I will be patient and wait for bk to post a vid or pics to see how to release from the harness and the buggy while useing an auto release.

Both types will work , here's what happens.
1--the wichard , releases the snatchblock which remains on the strop (handles , strop and block assembly are then ripped out of your hands with a force greater than your own weight)
2--the breakaway connection , from the buggy strap to the wichard (which remains clevised to your harness) may break ,allowing you to tumble away from the buggy if it flips or you get bounced out.

@ snowspider, Thanks! with everyones help it is coming clearer for me...flipping the wichard around to realease the block and now I get why the auto strap needs to have a breaking point to exit the buggy.

wouldn't it it be nice if the pin comes out completely releaseing you from the kite and the buggy at the same time?