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martinipro
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[*] posted on 15-7-2012 at 12:04 PM
Kiteboard questions


I recently started kiteboarding.

To start I figured I would get a wide/big/flat board that would be easy to learn but not too big that would affect my progress. I went with an RRD 10 KNOTS (146 x 46). A relatively cheap board that I would care less if I scratched, chipped, or even lost it.

The last few times on the water have been great and I have been able to get my first rides in. Next step is working on Upwind and Transitions! Well, needless to say I am really enjoying my time on the water.
During these times I've noticed that I really struggle with my board when the water starts to get a little choppy. Often crash, splash water on my face and all. Would this be caused because my board is too flat and not good for choppy water?

I also got to try Distort's Spleene Fun Tech Door 60 side by side with mine. I was by no means underpowered and it felt like that board goes upwind way better than mine. (May have to do with my lack of skill)

Eventually my plan would be to replace my board with a Big low wind board and a smaller every day higher wind board.

Are the issues I'm having due to my technique or are they board related?
Would it make sense to switch boards now or wait a little till I'm a better rider?

How is the mako king for a beginner? I hear good things about it for light wind and/or choppy waters. How about for flat water?
As a smaller board I was looking somewhere along the lines of a CrazyFly Raptor pro 132 x 39?

Mainly ride in a bay that has some choppy water, no waves yet.
Riding my 8,11 OR Rise and 19 Speed3.
Winds so far during the summer have been 6-18mph.
Weight around 165#



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[*] posted on 15-7-2012 at 12:36 PM


Mako King is a great board for chop and learning. When it is flat water I switch to my Xenon Laluz 135. Getting used to the changing surface of the water is just time. I can ride either one in chop. The Mako King is smoother. It is also a good board to learn how to ride directional and toeside. After you learn to use it in twin tip mode you can set it up in mutant mode with the straps further aft.
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martinipro
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[*] posted on 15-7-2012 at 01:40 PM


Thanks Andre. Upwind performance how does it compare to a Door-like board(flat and wide)?

I'm also looking for info on the raptor pro as an all-around board. Specifically the 132x39 and the 132X43. User friendliness, upwind ability, performance as a beginner freeride board if anyone has some info on them.



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[*] posted on 15-7-2012 at 04:59 PM


The Mako King works well upwind. I frequently go a mile upwind and then do a downwinder with it to end the day. The Door probably works better for low wind performance in flat water.
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[*] posted on 15-7-2012 at 06:32 PM


the board you have sounds decent almost TOO large for your size. its width and chop are a tough mix with out some serious weight. skips out easy and just out of control i would think. power isn't the problem, managing the grip with the edge is sometimes the issue AFETR you get going. this is where EVERYONE likes concave bottoms esp. the lighter crowd.

prolly too much power for slick bottom at your weight. a concave something will lend itself to a much smoother control

the smaller board will feel so much better.



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[*] posted on 16-7-2012 at 05:21 AM


The Mako 140 sounds like it would be an ideal board for you size wise and chop wise.

The Makos seem to cut through chop instead of riding on top of it. They also turn and carve easily which is good if you have snowboard or skateboard experience.

They definitely have a different feel from the square'ish boards, but most Mako riders (like me) seem to really enjoy them.

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martinipro
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[*] posted on 17-7-2012 at 05:58 AM


Thanks, so it sounds like the 146 x 46 is on the bigger side of what I should get. (Maybe I will think about replacing it with a 150 Mako wide eventually if that makes sense?)
How do Makos do in low wind conditions? I'm talking 6-8 knots(regular summer days around here) with the FS Speed3 19.

Regarding a smaller concave board for everyday riding, would 132-134x39-43 be a good idea?
Would I be looking for a wider or narrower board? What difference does it make?

@Phree yes it seems like it skips out of control a little on the chop but im blaming my lack of skill to that.(I am not edging properly/hard enough).



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[*] posted on 17-7-2012 at 06:32 AM


6-8 knts that is light, 134x39 seems a good choice for decent air. starting 12kts and up.

19m with 146x46 is a huge combo, if thats working for you. stay with it til some control is predictable. the range is gonna be very small. at 12 knts you are gonna feel out of control

with more air the ride will be completely different.

a good combo you have is the 11m rise and 146 that should get you on in 10kts or so.

your weight like <160?



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[*] posted on 17-7-2012 at 06:43 AM


Weight around 165#.
I've been able to hold the 19 with that board till maybe 13-14knts, I think a smaller board would work great 13+.
I think I will be adding a 12m Speed3 to the mix.


I am still trying to get used to the 8, 11 Rises(Still not sure about inflatos, may get rid of them and go all Foil for now).
I need to take a kiteboarding lesson and test a few tubes to see what I like.



FB - Flexifoil: Rage 2.5 | Gin Tonkawa 3.1/5.4/8.7
DP - Peter Lynn: Venom 8/10/13/16, Phantom 12
TUBES - North EVO 7/9/11/13, Dyno 15/18
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[*] posted on 17-7-2012 at 07:30 AM


the 11m even better 12m S3! and RRD would be more comfortable and controllable.

the smaller board with the 19 will be fun .. your size will allow a wide range of combos.

a controllable board will make a difference. the BIG board is like you wearing clown shoes , yes you can get around in them, just TOO much to control .

your light air set up is DONE . "move to proper fitting running shoes"

only point in question is the bottom design , if you have LOTS of power /wind a concave bottom will feel like magic, with the foils staying with a flat (less concave )will feel better.

as you progress a 12m and smaller board will be preferred, but keep working the combo you have and a 12m S3 (LESS KITE)is gonna help with the wind drive and not so much HOLY CRAP ITS ROUGH AND I"M OUTTA CONTROL feeling.



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[*] posted on 17-7-2012 at 08:08 AM


Thanks Phree! Exactly the type of info I was looking for.

For a smaller board What would a 132/34 x 39 do for me? It is what was recommended by someone

If I found a good deal on a 132 x 43. What would be the differences between both boards? What would be the advantages or disadvantages of the wider board?



FB - Flexifoil: Rage 2.5 | Gin Tonkawa 3.1/5.4/8.7
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[*] posted on 17-7-2012 at 11:28 AM


the wide will plane in lighter air but you are of the size it won't matter get the 134x39 it will see a ton use and a tiny bit of rocker mostly on the tips will help with the chop. a directional is the end all solution to chop but IMHO if you have chop you don't have big waves, no decent waves why bother, BUT the MAKO is some of both and a decent TT. the short fatty132X43 only if your air tends to light i would go for that, but if you have days 15+ the 134 X39 will be a fraction smoother and have more range.

at your weight its hard to make mistake on choice EXCEPT for going TOO big, good for starting out and 6KNOTS! but limited



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[*] posted on 18-7-2012 at 10:25 AM


Quote:
I am still trying to get used to the 8, 11 Rises(Still not sure about inflatos, may get rid of them and go all Foil for now).
I need to take a kiteboarding lesson and test a few tubes to see what I like.

The OR Rises will sell quick. I have a 9 and 12 I progressed on much faster on than the FS I started on.
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[*] posted on 18-7-2012 at 11:23 AM


I would lean towards the smaller range of boards for your "high-wind" board. I have a 132x40 that I use in stronger winds. I was pushing 185 at the time, but that board was/is amazingly fun. I would rather ride that board with a larger kite than grab my door... Easier to switch boards than kites during a session, but S3 12m + 132RS is pure awesome.



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[*] posted on 18-7-2012 at 11:37 AM


Good stuff! I'll be on the lookout for a 132x139 or similar board then.

@AD yes I have heard wonderful things about rises but they felt unstable and twitchy once I flew them. I was starting to think I got busted kites(bought them used). But the same day i tried a Cabrinha Convert and it felt very similar.



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[*] posted on 18-7-2012 at 11:58 AM


compared a soft kite (FS PL) tubes feel rigid and nervous twitchy standing around. its just the bar feedback kinda takes a while to weed out the kites "normal" feedback and esp. 09,'10,'11 everything started going to ultra light bar pressure and getting a balance tube with a smooth feel was a challenge with LE weight like in tubes. the smaller the kite the more you notice this nervous feel more so. around 10m or less is where it starts and kinda gets worse in some brands. but some is present in most. my 9m tube has multiple attachment points at LE points and FINALLY got a smooth balance feel without collapse isuues. its all VERY MINOR and a tube rider may not be able to discern this so its only a matter tase and exposure . you obviously have taste and far more exposure compared to most.



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[*] posted on 18-7-2012 at 12:16 PM


Interesting.

Can you elaborate a little on the "collapse".

I found that if I stopped paying attention to the kite for a few seconds and the wind wasn't consistent, If I did not keep tension on the lines at all times they would go slack and the kite would just drop off the sky(hindenburg?). This is what completely made me revisit my choice for inflatables.(Happened on both Rises 8,11 as well as the Cabrinha Contra12).

This did not happen on my 9m Naish Helix at all but I felt the Helix was just too fast for me to learn on.



FB - Flexifoil: Rage 2.5 | Gin Tonkawa 3.1/5.4/8.7
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[*] posted on 18-7-2012 at 12:42 PM


I had the same issue at first with going to tube kites. You must keep back line tension. Not a lot. Just enough otherwise the kite will tip over the leading edge and fall from the sky. This is the opposite of the PL which will hang out at zenith on the front two lines. You don't want to keep a tube kite at 12:00 when walking around with it either. Keep it off to the side. It will be far more stable. It is just a matter of getting used to the difference coming from ARCs. For the same reason you don't want to pull on the front lines at launch like you do with an ARC. Keep some back line pressure to control the kite at the edge of the window.
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