Alright i recieved the specs for my reactor from Peter Lynn and have all the correct measurements- so on to question #2:
Anybody have a jig recommendation as well as recommended knots to gaurantee the correct lengths as i start working reworking them?
thanks
scott

Use a 2x4 for a jig and fix one nail as your permanent anchor and move the lower per the bridle spec to assure proper length. Figure of 8 knot if you are tying is the knot to use. Depending upon how you twist the knot it may wind up shorter when you tie it off so you'll have to readjust accordingly. Why not splice it. Splicing is super easy and you can sew it or do a double splice to prevent it from slipping. You do need to account for some shrinkage as the line tucks in on itself but its much cleaner.

Or you could send the dimensions to John at powerzone and have him make them for you at reasonable price. Make sure you label all the legs and take pics or draw a diagram so you know you reconnect it properly.

Forgot to add - tie /splice your first loop and anchor it and then stretch the lines and then cut. You want the lines prestretched to half the working load. Give it a few slow tugs, a few long tugs and a few quick tugs. You will feel the braid lock.

Check the bridle splicing on page 3 in my conversion document.. Shows you have to tie the bridles essentially knot free.

http://www.riffclown.com/kites/HQ2.2.4Conversion.pdf

Thanks guys- did not think about splicing that would be the easiest way for sure- getting ready for wwb

Quote: Originally posted by riffclown

Check the bridle splicing on page 3 in my conversion document.. Shows you have to tie the bridles essentially knot free. http://www.riffclown.com/kites/HQ2.2.4Conversion.pdf

Nicely done. How did you twist your fid so tightly leaving only the open eye at the end. That's a clean fid. I don't braid my fids but for one x / loop so the tail / bitter end if you will, is open though wrapped around a key ring for pulling purposes.

Thanks, I just marked everything off so it would be consistent. The pictures say it all. there are no secrets. The line is literally just looped back inside itself and uses the finger trap style tension to stay secure.. Once you tighten the larks head, it holds itself very nicely. I've flown it in some pretty strong winds with no hint of loosening.

Quote: Originally posted by B-Roc

Quote: Originally posted by riffclown   Check the bridle splicing on page 3 in my conversion document.. Shows you have to tie the bridles essentially knot free. http://www.riffclown.com/kites/HQ2.2.4Conversion.pdf Nicely done. How did you twist your fid so tightly leaving only the open eye at the end. That's a clean fid. I don't braid my fids but for one x / loop so the tail / bitter end if you will, is open though wrapped around a key ring for pulling purposes.

My bud Riff has mad bridle skills. I've seen them first hand!

Quote: Originally posted by riffclown

Thanks, I just marked everything off so it would be consistent. The pictures say it all. there are no secrets. The line is literally just looped back inside itself and uses the finger trap style tension to stay secure.. Once you tighten the larks head, it holds itself very nicely. I've flown it in some pretty strong winds with no hint of loosening.

I get the whole splicing thing, what I was asking is how did you make your fid? It looks like piano / guitar wire that is tightly twisted which could make it a nice small diameter push fid if necessary and not just a pull fid. How did you twist it so cleanly and tight?

Oh, I misunderstood your question. It is indeed guitar wire. It's twisted a little before creasing it so it twist itself like a yoyo string. It's not nearly as tight a loop as the pictures seem to make it appear.

Also it's no good for pushing.. I use it to restring Marimbas and Vibraphones for the High School Band.