probably a dumb question but where should I attach the leash to my harness when I buggy. My leash is the hq leash that has a 6" long tube that says
eject with arrow pointed towards me. I have been attaching it to the side of my spreader bar that attaches to the harness but last time I flew static
I pulled the safety on the chicken loop and somehow the release on the leash was pulled without my input which resulted in me chasing the kite. I
want to avoid this because I frequently have obstacles downwind that could snatch my kite if it goes far enough.
On the hook itself? I'm wondering if your style of leash would be better. I'm gun shy about using my safety now because I'm still not sure why my
leash safety went off
I attach mine to the webbing that holds the spreader bar. Reason being that spreader bars can break and welds can fail over time. If your spreader
bar broke you would lose that, the leash and the kite. So mine is attached to the webbing which leaves the leash dangling off to the side but under
tension the leash release is still easily accessed.
Depower Quiver: 14m Gin Eskimo, 10m Gin Eskimo III, 6m Gin Yeti, 4.5m Gin Yeti (custom bridle and mixer)
Fixed Bridle Quiver: MAC Bego 400, JOJO ET Instinct 2.5 & 5.5, Lil Devil 1.5, Sting 1.2
Rides: Ground Industries
I attach mine to the webbing that holds the spreader bar. Reason being that spreader bars can break and welds can fail over time. If your spreader bar
broke you would lose that, the leash and the kite. So mine is attached to the webbing which leaves the leash dangling off to the side but under
tension the leash release is still easily accessed.
That's pretty much where I was attaching it. Like beamerbob said, I must have loosened it somehow before I pulled the chicken loop release. I might
hook it on the loop so I don't accidentally loosen it when it's to my side. I haven't used my harness enough to start breaking welds. At least I
don't think. Mine looks pretty solid where it's welded on.
If the leash becomes an issue, the latest HQ leash allows you to adjust the release tension:
As far as an attachment point, the Ocean Rodeo harness comes with a dedicated attachment for the leash.
It is a stainless D-Loop attached to a webbing loop. The is larks headed to the main bar of the spreader bar and passed through a port in the
spreader bar cover. You can see it in the right hand side of this pic. Sadly, even though it comes with the harness, it isn't sold separately, to
the best of my knowledge.
It's fairly easy to make something like this. All you need is a solded welded stainless steel ring from the local sailing/marine store and a
continuous loop of dyneema.
Larkshead the dyneema to the stainless steel ring. You can "lock it in place" with a suitably small rubber grommet or washer from the local Home
Depot/Walls.
You can then larkshead the free end of the dyneema loop to the main crosspiece of the spreader bar, leaving the stainless steel ring as the
designated attachment point for your leash.
ATB,
Sam
"I never had any friends later on like the ones I had when I was 12 - Jesus, does anyone?" - The Body by Stephen King
That's cool. Thanks Sam. It's a shock when you see a lot of money suddenly floating downwind towards hazards. I'm going to play with my current set
up a little more, but If I have another mishap i'm definitely getting a different leash. Also, I don't think it would be to hard to rig a set up like
that to the webbing to clip the leash to.
As others have said, use the hook itself. If the leash is hooked to the side of the harness then its easy for the leash safety to become wedged into
the seat with any movement potentially setting it off.
..and also a short leash is better than a long one dragging along the ground.
I use a full length leash, clipped to my hook, and it is just fine wadded up and sat between my knees in the seat. No ground dragging for me. That
being said, a short leash would be nice, because I can't see myself ever doing handle passes in a buggy... As long as the leash is still long enough
to clip up to my rear lines for landing that is really all I need.
NAPKA US8008
Kites:
Ozone R1 V3 7m
Flysurfer Sonic v3 15m
Flysurfer Speed 3 Deluxe 19m
Peter Lynn Charger 2 12m
Ozone Access Reride 6m
Peter Lynn 2013 Reactor 5.5m
Peter Lynn 2013 Reactor 8.6m
Prism Tensor 5.0m
I use a full length leash, clipped to my hook, and it is just fine wadded up and sat between my knees in the seat. No ground dragging for me. That
being said, a short leash would be nice, because I can't see myself ever doing handle passes in a buggy... As long as the leash is still long enough
to clip up to my rear lines for landing that is really all I need.
Ozone sells a short leash (no bungee)
and
PKS sells a short leash with bungee
(full size leash shown below it for size comparison)
ATB,
Sam
"I never had any friends later on like the ones I had when I was 12 - Jesus, does anyone?" - The Body by Stephen King
The bungee is good for lessening the sudden load on the line and canopy which is especially important on foil kites to avoid canopy or bridle damage.
When you activate the release, all of a sudden the whole force is going on one line until the kite looses it shape a second later. It probably also
helps ensure the line passes through the bar by jerking it a bit. Maybe I'm making this up.
On my slingshot LEIs sometimes my bar has a hard time going down the flag line and I jerk it a little so the kite flags out completely, I imagine the
bungee does something similar, or maybe the bungee is the culprit in the first place by lessening the load.