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Author: Subject: line tune up_older flysurfer pulse 2 foil kite
solamentej
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[*] posted on 11-10-2014 at 08:09 PM
line tune up_older flysurfer pulse 2 foil kite


Hello to all in forum...keep playing and trying to tune this older kite.... flysurfer pulse 2>>I am newbie.. so learning as I go :o

need some help...

kite is flying reasonably well.. I did the "mixer test" to the "default" setting

issue is: not stable at the ends of window.... tips will fold at the edge // also>> a kite has a tendency to overfly at the zenith

other than that..... reacts to bar changes quite well.. turns well in the middle of window

how should I adjust the pulleys ( mixer test).... more kite shape/ deeper profile... longer c and b line??

thanks for your replies :puzzled:
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B-Roc
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[*] posted on 12-10-2014 at 05:05 AM


Before you do any adjusting, what size is the kite and what were the wind conditions and speeds when you were experiencing the tip tuck and overflying?



Depower Quiver: 14m Gin Eskimo, 10m Gin Eskimo III, 6m Gin Yeti, 4.5m Gin Yeti (custom bridle and mixer)
Fixed Bridle Quiver: MAC Bego 400, JOJO ET Instinct 2.5 & 5.5, Lil Devil 1.5, Sting 1.2
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solamentej
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[*] posted on 12-10-2014 at 06:31 AM


conditions were NW wind 15-18km/h
wind gusts to 32km/h

flysurfer pulse2 8m2

thanks again
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PHREERIDER
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[*] posted on 12-10-2014 at 08:47 AM


too much depowered trim for skill level, trim OUT so kite sits further back in window.

this unit has to be flown with BAR IN pressure, a continuous nursing of back line tension, if not front collapse will continue with trimmed depower setting. not the greatest unit to start with, but easier than most FS of same era. these kites NEED smooth consistent wind anything less will be challenging

tip collapse usually NOT a feature in this model, is it one side or both?

considerable experience is need to get the unit to flow, this unit comes with a mountain of power and forever float. kinda slow unless fully depowered . at the top of the range, more like beyond, unit will increasingly become difficult to control to the point where it will not turn.

set mixer to heaviest setting and leave it, just needs to reasonably close on evenest if there is big discrepancy theres ur problem



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powerzone
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[*] posted on 12-10-2014 at 04:35 PM


actually tip collapse is more common than you might think on the pulse2.. it has ringlines on the wingtips.. they shrink after a time and cause instability in the tips. i bet you'll gain about an inch or so of length if you re-stretch the ring lines.





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Flyfish
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[*] posted on 12-10-2014 at 07:57 PM


John (power zone) is right on. I bet it is your tip ring lines. I have a full quiver of Pulse 2's that I regularly fly. I always replace my tip lines once a year at the end of the season. Ther're super easy to Change out.
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solamentej
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thumbup.gif posted on 12-10-2014 at 09:10 PM


Thank you all for your reply.
:-)

I have been out today...flying the kite a bit....winds were lighter. .....played with the pulley system...adjusted a bit....extended c line by about 2cm...b line by about 1/2 of that....felt like the kite was stable...turning somewhat faster..and could fly it nicely lower. In the window.....not sure, if my adjustment made the difference..or just the lighter wind conditions made it easier to fly.....BUT even the mostly lower tip folding issue has disappeared. .. good...yeah...loving it

If it is gusty...quite challenging. ..but that is probably my lack of skills...but in steady wind flow..it feels good to fly this flysurfer
It should give us some good time in winter on skis or boards....BUT cannot imagine to use this kite in water...the bridle system is quite complex....the gust twisted this kite few times over our weekend of flying...no way.. I could fix the lines in the water...especially with waves moving me, kite and all the lines....but on land..we will and already have FUN with this flysurfer kite...thanks again for your repplies. ..more of your ideas... more I learn...
:-)
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[*] posted on 13-10-2014 at 05:42 AM


definitely swap the ring lines , they do wear fast, i replaced with dacron cord and could make it 6 months.
great kite on the water , powerful and smooth, crazy boost float, get more time on it and it will smooth out the action , a little bar in tension will help keep kite happy, it needs continuous flow of smooth input

on the water you would be working with a decent solid breeze, in the sweet spot of performance really nice unit ...couple more sessions and it all come together.



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solamentej
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[*] posted on 13-10-2014 at 09:51 AM


OK.. great.. I will order 2 "tip sparepart lines".. I think that's how they call it in the manual.:thumbup:

they ( flysurfer company) describe the line material as DNV120....hopefully the guy, I order it from, will figure out the best material for it.. the only place, I know, is "ComoxKiteRepair.ca".. I think .. they are in B.C. Canada
**ANY OTHER PLACE to GET new kite lines or spare parts?** quick...

??Do you think.. that my "mixer " adjustment made the kite more stable ( as I have described before... made the c-line about 2 cm longer towards the canopy of the kite.. thus, I believe, created deeper profile in the kite)??

Anyways.. flies better now... will change the tip sparepart lines.. when I get them... and let the fun begin :D

THANKS TO ALL
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solamentej
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[*] posted on 13-10-2014 at 10:21 AM


:thumbup::thumbup:for PHREERIDER

"too much depowered trim for skill level, trim OUT so kite sits further back in window."

??CAN you EXPLAIN the effect of the depower strip adjustment on the kite behavior??
If I depower...shorten the front lines...I lower the angle of attack.. right... thus less power.... BUT how that effect the position of the kite in the window....

which settings gets me closer to the edge of window...... is it shorter front line... less angle of attack which gets me closer to the edge... and then ....longer front lines.. fully powered strap will keep me deeper in the window???!!!

thanks for your explanation..

CHEERS
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[*] posted on 13-10-2014 at 12:37 PM


with the trim out (making front lines, in total, longer ) steeper AOA , with this setting the increased angle causes MORE TOTAL DRAG, hence kite is pulled backwards to satisfy drag/ lift balance. in higher winds this threshold actually changes as lift over powers things and fully powered becomes useful.

with the trim in (shortening the front) the total drag is reduced allowing kite to lift greater than be pulled back, and sit further forward , in this setting the kite will fly faster because reduced total drag as well, so its a performance jump for a slow kite to trim to depower.

the relative factor in both settings is bar position while in flight, if kite is trimmed out the bar will peg itself at stopper and idle nicely at apex in decent wind and choke(stall ) all the way in.....as you trim in and shorten the front YOU have to keep bar input(bar in) to keep back from the edge of the window.

while MOVING, the trimmed in kite will give better UPWIND and fly faster thru window because kite is flatter(expanding its range in the window at the edges)

but at idle(or slack) the kite will rush to edge of the window and with less drag can slip thru the edge and collapse forward , this is the point where super close attention is paid to bar tension in to control overflys


finding good balance with trim is important, esp. with FS, this units are sensitive, powerful and efficient. so keep them flowing and happy sometimes is a narrow path.

ID the units back stall and trim in til unit is powered without stalling backwards best place to start.

kinda rush through this but hopefully it will enlighten, but your fly time will be the best to teach you and you experience it.





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solamentej
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[*] posted on 13-10-2014 at 07:31 PM


thank you.. great help...
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powerzone
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[*] posted on 14-10-2014 at 07:48 AM


i can make you up a set of ringlines, what size is your pulse2?

email me to set it up.



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