I'm trying to simply drill a 1/4" hole on my standard pl buggy to bolt the side rails to the axle. The side rail tube slips into the axle tube. I've burned up a couple high speed bits and I used 1/8" bits to start. I've gotten through the outer most tube but still have to go through the side rail and out the bottom of the outer tube. Any suggestions? I'm using plenty of pressure and low speed to bite. Also using some 30 weight oil as drilling fluid.

Something I've always planned on doing for a couple reasons but always thought it would be easy.

I've only had good luck with HSS bits in wood and aluminum. Get a cobalt bit:

http://www.browntool.com/Default.aspx?tabid=344&Category...

I think Lowes/Home Depot sell them too. Be sure it's not a "Titanium Nitride Coated" bit. I don't really care for those coated bits. Once that coating wears off the cutting edge; what good is it?

Titanium Nitride bits have lasted longer in my experience, and resharpening bits can help. The big things I've always been told are going slow, use cutting fluid, and getting a drill bit with a larger angle, so you cut more with easy pass, can help a lot. My most recent drilling project I ended up going through 2.5 bits. The one pilot and one and a half of the final size ones. Though resharpening in the middle of said project. I'll post pics on the right thread and link it tomorrow.

Sean, you need a GOOD quality split point bit. Try an Ace hardware etc. Not the junky Dewalt ones from Lowes..
You'll know it from the obvious price difference.

Almost 50 minutes of destroying perfectly good metal with a variety of drill bits.... or what to do in the workshop when you are particularly bored.



ATB,
Sam

Thanks guys, I've got a tool supply business by my office that I'm sure will have all sorts of bits in stock. I'll just keep drilling.

I need the bolts so I can buggy jump with my hotwire system, not really, I just want to be able to hang my buggy on a wall without the axle coming loose. That's been bothering me for awhile. It seems like it makes sense to have the axle bolted to the side rails. I've always thought it was weird that it's just a slip joint.

Sean, this sounds like a good plan. One thing I will say, however, is that every once in a while a seemingly faulty design comes in awfully handy. I slammed my right rear wheel or axle (not sure which) into a steel soccer goal post at high speed a month or so back, enough to displace the goal about five feet. This is a large goal structure that takes two people to move around. I've got a BigFoot and the rear axle is secured to the frame by under-the-seat straps (I suspect yours is like this too). The impact pulled the rear axle off of the side rails sort of dismantling the buggy. Turns out the buggy is complete fine. I suspect if I had dropped bolts through the couplings as you are trying to do that I would have surely broken or severely bent things on the bug. :o

Just sayin'....

Good point Steve but pesonally I like to keep a decent distance away from hard steel objects. :evil:

I suppose duct taping would accomplish my goal and still afford a break away axle, but I'm committed at this point with partial holes drilled.

I totally get it. Go for it! I plan to dodge those goals in the future....

Just teasing Steve. I've come very close to many a obstacle but been lucky. Your not the first to have an encounter with a goal.

Dang, got new bits, finished first hole, second hole, as I was poking through, breaks $300 lithium ion drill. Usually that's when you break a bit not the drill. Guess I should have used my corded drill. At least I get to take apart and learn how to fix a drill.

Too late now, but honestly don't know why you are drilling in the first place. That axle attachment is solid with a properly tightened seat strap.

Quote: Originally posted by acampbell

Too late now, but honestly don't know why you are drilling in the first place. That axle attachment is solid with a properly tightened seat strap.

Because there just aren't enough OCD people and latent tinkerers on PKF. :wee:

ATB,
Sam

Very true Sam :D

I found that the straps loosen slightly with use. I e largely eliminated that by taping my straps but there is still just enough play for the axle to pop out. Even when tightened there is still a little play in the axle when loading and unloading. I think it will make wall hanging better and give me a little more peace of mind when hot wired just in case there is a little accidental lift, I want my axle to stay with me.

Also flexi buggies look like they are fastened there from pictures I've seen so it's not a new idea. Am I the only weirdo that thinks it's nice to have it fastened?

I totally feel your pain! When I built my buggy blades I ended up drilling 12 holes in 1/4 inch stainless plate. It was by far the hardest part of the project. I blew a small fortune in drill bits:evil:

Quote: Originally posted by Cheddarhead

I totally feel your pain! When I built my buggy blades I ended up drilling 12 holes in 1/4 inch stainless plate. It was by far the hardest part of the project. I blew a small fortune in drill bits:evil:

Man, I had no idea stainless was so different. I've drilled a fair amount of mild steel in my day so I didn't think anything of drilling a couple holes through some relatively thin ss

High speed is your problem. Stainless is similar to aluminum in that it builds up extreme heat very fast. If you go fast, it heats up the metal and the bit so quickly that it just melts the edge and dull's it out. Get some Rapid Tap, any good hardware store will have it in stock, that stuff is like gold when drilling anything and will help your drill bit last longer. Motor oil is worthless on stainless.

Set your speed to medium or slower so that the bit cuts good and doesn't just spin around fast and build heat. Once you get the right speed stainless cuts very nicely with minimum heat. Slower is better than fast.

Luckily my drill is not broken. I had accidentally bumped the speed setting between high and low effectively taking it out of gear so to speak. :embarrased:

:bigok:

Quote: Originally posted by awindofchange

High speed is your problem. Stainless is similar to aluminum in that it builds up extreme heat very fast. If you go fast, it heats up the metal and the bit so quickly that it just melts the edge and dull's it out. Get some Rapid Tap, any good hardware store will have it in stock, that stuff is like gold when drilling anything and will help your drill bit last longer. Motor oil is worthless on stainless. Set your speed to medium or slower so that the bit cuts good and doesn't just spin around fast and build heat. Once you get the right speed stainless cuts very nicely with minimum heat. Slower is better than fast.

We at work do a fair amount of drilling into metal for mending plates etc. The above statement is true....slow speed to reduce heat....I would still put a couple drops of oil on it as it never hurts.....small 3 in 1 container to just drip it down the bit as it turns....smaller holes first leading up to the bigger one (pilot hole)

You could also just bring it to a machine shop and they would charge you like 5 bucks to drill a hole....maybe free if you make them laugh with being pulled in a buggy holding a kite. Most of those guys love things that move. (fast cars, sleds, etc).

Quote "Luckily my drill is not broken. I had accidentally bumped the speed setting between high and low effectively taking it out of gear so to speak. :embarrased: "


Man Card Fail.

Thanks Windy, I deserve that.

Mission complete, I no longer have to tolerate the slightest of noise in the slip joint going over bumps or any minor handling inconveniences when storing, loading, unloading that it had caused. Stainless 1/4 x 20 with washers and nylock nut with anti seize put on the threads of course. I had to go to a couple box stores to find the stainless parts. I've noticed the stainless section in most box stores are in drawers and looks like a crime scene that has been ransacked.

That is sweet Sean! Very happy for ya bud. I know exactly what you mean about the Crime Scene. For me the logical (10 minute drive) choice is a Home Depot. They have exactly that, a series of trays in drawers with the stainless and metric stuff all together. The labels on the outside of the trays look nice and orderly, but open the drawers and it looks worse than my son's Freshman dorm room (smells about the same too).

I hit the jackpot last time I was there as the company rep for the hardware that goes in those trays was actually stocking when I showed up. He was EXTREMELY helpful in answering all sorts of specific questions such as steel strength and grade for different applications, thread pitch, how often you can tighten and loosen nylocks, nut thickness (here it comes....), etc., the whole shooting match. You know, all the stuff my wife is eager to discuss when she asks me what I'm thinking about....

Wow,... I'm out of the loop today gang... looks like you had quite the adventure today Sean... good work!

Good job Sean! Looks top notch. Perserverance pays off once again