Where can i find some pulleys to do a cross-over bar setup?

Thanks,
-Dusty-

I saw them at Home Depot

will home depot pulleys be good enough?

If theyare not too heavy, yeah.

I went to West Marine and got some nice little pulley blocks. They are more expensive because they are "marine" but the blocks are statinless steel. You do not need the ball-bearing type. I paid like $9.00 each

We don't have any good marine shops that i know of here.

thought you were on vacation?

-Dusty-

While we are on the subject, where is a good place to get wichard shackles?

Packed and ready, killin' time waiting to leave for the airport.

http://tinyurl.com/23r2gq

http://tinyurl.com/28p9kc

http://tinyurl.com/26pl4z

Good deal. have a good trip. thanks for the links.

Quote:

Originally posted by ratindahat While we are on the subject, where is a good place to get wichard shackles?

http://tinyurl.com/3bdnbf

wow.. i think i'll just buy a chicken loop at that price

I picked up my 1st pulleys at a local hardware shop. They work well enough to get the job done cheap. You can then decide if you like it. I changed my center brake pulley to a lighter weight rotating pulley. I got it at a climbing shop. The climbing shop also has wichard releases.

hmm.. wonder if REI has stuff.. That's where i get most of my climbing gear.

DaVinch found some great Ronston kite pulleys and put them on my Bego - super light and tiny. I believe Tridude had them too. DaVinch posted the link some time ago but I can't recall what it is - probably a quick search here or on google for "ronstan kite pulley" will yield good results.

Shackles are nice and they are great for quick releases but they aren't necessary.

Peronsally, I like the least amount of clunky stuff attached to me as possible and those get clunky, IMO.

If you are stropping in with handles and things go bad on just a spreader bar, you won't be able to easily get out but you should be able to really torque your brake lines and get things under control just by grabbing them - your hands become kite killers when stropped on handles and you should be able to reach up and grab a leader (or two) if you haven't made your strop too long.

If you are doing this for a cross over bar just get a break-away strop (flexi and just about anyone else) and use a standard spreader bar and simply pull the bin on the bar strop and you are free.

I'm kinda wanting to make or buy a chicken loop for a bar setup.

You will find ronstan kite pulleys here for $3 a pop!

https://www.apsltd.com/Home.asp

Maybe I'm confused?? What are you wanting the chicken loop for on a fixed bridle kite? If you were to attach it to your brake lines, it simply acts as a killer and you would still need a strop on the bar if you were to hook in. Not that there is anything wrong with that but a flexi killer attached to your wrist or your spreader bar is just as good and a bit cleaner, IMO.

If you were to attach it to your bar you'd have to put it on a strop or something and in that case you might as well just use a strop.

Regardless, you can buy chicken loops here if desired you can buy chicken loops here. http://www.powerlinesports.com/store/index.php?cPath=41_64&a...

Depower is of course something else but none of the kites in your sig fit that bill.

Don't get me wrong, I'm not trying to give you a hard time, just trying to figure out what you're doing and maybe offer up more simple and cost effective solutions.

Not trying to depower, yet.

I was kinda liking the idea on one of the crossover bars. He hooked the brake to a chicken loop so he could brake it without dropping the bar. that making a little more sense?

I know i need a strop to "hook" in, but i could see the advantage of having brake control and control of the kite at the same time.

I might just go with the simple 2 pulley set-up, but not sure yet.

-Dusty-

Gotcha. Alternately you could add a length of cord to the crossover ring / pulley and simply grab that to add additional brake to land the kite or kill it.

I think the ozone samuari bar allows for some brake adjustment via some chicken loop method to. Its not a crossover set up but perhaps that will offer additional inspiration.

the length of cord idea isn't bad as long as i am hooked in.

You might not need to be hooked in to pull the cord. I have a bar for my 8.5 and flexi sets that up with a killer directly attached to the brake line setup but even unhooked, you can fly the kite to the edge of the window and then start on upward turn holding the bar with one hand and reaching forward with the other to grab the brake line leader and kill or stall the kite.

Even in a powered loop, if you hold the bar with one hand all the way at the end with the bar pointing towards the kite - you can still have enough time to reach foward and pull the brake leader. Of course, the 8.5 isn't the quickest thing out there so you might be more challenged on a smaller kite - I'm just trying to help you visualize ways to use the brakes without fastening any extra add-ons.

Makes sense. I appreciate all the input i can get

Dusty -

FWIW, I am not a fan of hooking my harness into a strop, chicken loop, or anything attached to a kite, fixed bridle or depower, unless I have a solid quick release.

I now use a modified Wichard WC2673 QR Snap Shackle. Bought it from APS. Yep, the expensive one. It's set up like the Chicken Release at:

http://www.embado.com/kitesurfkit/chickenrelease/features.ht...

I NEVER run a rope strop through the shackle - only a heavy SS ring or sailmakers thimble I know will activate and clear the bail without hanging up. If I'm hooking to a rope strop, the strop rides thru a block which is attached to ring or thimble.

A couple of my bars are still set up with Airrush small QR chickenloops w/ spinning leash attachments that hook into my spreader hook, but I'll be switching those over soon.

Better not to hook in than to hook in with marginal gear. One drag thru the #@%$#!ly pear down there is all it'll take...

Later,

krumly

That is exactelly the type of setup i was looking at for my loop. Well, pretty close anyway.

Nice setup--how much did that cost you?

Tridude -

The Wichard WC 2673 was around $58. I cut a 1" dia x 3/16" t. SS ring about in half, ground the ends to a blunt point, and a friend tigged it on for free. The loop was probably $3, and if you had to pay for the TIG work, maybe add $15-20. All the other stuff I had around, the webbing parts I sewed myself. So about $65-$70 for me.

I use Loos continous SS sailmaker thimbles on the depower lines - about $4-5 each. All the stuff came from APS. They rock for sailing hardware and line.

krumly

I've gotten a couple D-loops, old kite surfer stuff to put on the bar to hook into, I've found a number of them that have a quick release on the D-power loop. Simply attaches to a standard bar and gives you a fixed power loop for the bar. Then run the brake/safety through the center of the bar to your harness/wrist strap and after you pull the safety to release the bar the center line will kill the power and put the kite to safety.

Pablo, are we talking about the strops with releases? or chicken loops you use to hook it?

-Dusty-

I've got a single D-loop that hooks directly onto the bar, old kitesurfing method, you used to use them to hook onto your harness with full power. then you could unhook it and use the chicken loop for depower. I've found a couple of these D-loops that have a release on them, but they're getting harder to find now days. I guess the D-loop would be the equivalence of a strop for a fixed bridal bar setup.

I have a couple fixed harness loops w/ quick release as Pablo describes. Airrush brand, and I think they stopped making them a year ago and just ran out of stock. I use them occasionally and hook into my spreader hook (the Wichard assembly sits above the spreader hook).

Good thing they have a QR, or I wouldn't use them at all. Thing I found when I had the fixed bar loop and a chicken loop together is the fixed loop would end up getting inadvertently hooked in when I was sheeting the bar in an out if I wasn't paying close attention to how I had my wrists rotated.

krumly