I made a harness for my kite (I have an 8 meter Pansh Ace coming and i need it for the power) So harnessing in is easy enough but with a caribener (cant spell) it is really hard to get out when you are getting dragged across the field. So all quick releases require the same basic things; 2 separate 'rings or loops" one that goes to the harness and the other to the handles/bar. A pin that goes through the loops or rings, a ring attached to the pin so it is easier to pull out. And a sleeve that the pin and loops go into.

For my loops i just tied a loop out of 110 lb dacron (you might want heavier duty if you weigh more than 130lbs) there is one loop tied right to my harness and the other goes to a carebener that hooks over the line between my handles. My pin is a piece of aluminum rod i found in the trash bent over at the end to make a loop. (You could probably use other things like steel as long as they are smooth, DO NOT USE THREADED ROD IT WILL NOT PULL OUT) For the ring on my pin i just tied a key ring on with dacron. And my sleeve is a piece of 1/2 inch PVC pipe with a hole drilled in it the size of the pin.

To set the quick release put the 2 loops through the PVC and put the pin through the hole. Now but tension on either side and pull out the pin, it should be hard but not impossible. Then go out and fly the kite but dont wait for something to go wrong to test it. Put on your kite killers (if you have handles) if you have a bar just tie it to your harness (here it doesnt matter you just dont want to lose your kite) so get it up and then pull the release if all went well you will be holding a pin the sleeve will go flying there will be no tension in your harness and the kite will fall to the ground.

It would work for kitesurfing i guess but you will have to quit if you pull it and make another cuz you will lose the sleeve and maybe the pin. If you are going to use it for kitesurfing (not reccomended) or you just dont want to search for your sleeve, drill a small hole in the PVC and tie it to the loop and same with the pin.

I will put some pics up later.

I dont want to deal with the image hosting thing
so here are a ton of posts:

Here is the loop that goes to the carebener (i lost mine so i used an eye bolt)

Loop on the harness

Pin and ring

PVC Sleeve

Quick release assembled

I put some foam insulation around my QR with a rubber band so it doesnt come apart in transport. Just dont forget to take it off

I wouldn't hook myself up to a kite with those things if you paid me !
I know you have to make with what you have got but your safety is a lot like the brakes on your car. You can rebuild your own brakes but you wouldn't create them from unrelated bits and pieces !
Just like with brakes on a car your safety is there to protect others as much as yourself. I personally wouldn't ride with you if you were hooked up with that thing ! Some things you just CAN'T scrimp on , safety releases are HIGH on that list.
A young fellow from around here has ridden for 2 years now without a harness and learned to jump + do buggy / KGB tricks well. Better you ride without hooking in if you can't afford a proper harness. It'll make you stronger and safer !

P.S.
AT 10mph you will be starting to think about packing up an 8m. It is going to leave you sitting there looking at real wind or ( and it seems more likely ) fly it in too big winds and getting in big trouble. IMHO

Well normally i would be just hooked into the harness no quick release so the homemade QR is alot better then no QR. And it has more of a tendency to fall apart then get stuck. And i really only hook in when i buggy as i need it more (the only other time is static flying) but when i ATB or skateboard or jump or whatever i find it much more of a pain to hook in and out then just fly holding on.

and with the 8 meter will i be able to jump in 10mph wind?

I picked up my Wichardt QR for $25, money well spent then a $5 pulley and $2 shackle from the local hardware store, it's held together and hauled my 250lb rear around when fully lit for almost a year now, time to replace the pulley but it's the minimum setup I'd consider when going fully captive.

If you want the proper way to do it, get Zloty to show you a picture of his setup.

I'd personally ride unhooked until you know exactly where your kite is without having to look at it, and are used to using the brakes to get out of trouble instead of relying on KS-P-A-M-L-I-N-K-s.

I'm using this set up as everything else failed for my style of riding.This setup is perfect with mystic harness as it goes around bar hook and it still move freely from left to right without being locked like on other bars,that is due to hook design. http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2151/1676149176_de78e57fca_b....
http://www.flickr.com/photos/slawek2006/1675293449/in/photos...
It will last me for one year intensive riding on the beach and it would last way longer if it wouldn't be in contact with sand. It cost $100 and its worth every penny I would spend for replacing other blocks.I've learned hard way.It is also important that this set up will not take Your kite to far away from You (2'' or so) like other setups so It also allow You to make Your strop longer. I would find friend that have West marine member club card and than You will pay only $75.Now this is SLAWEk approved

NPW, your resourcefulness is admirable, but I'm with Snowbird. A kludged homebrew safety isn't a safety as much as it is one more thing to go wrong at the wrong time.

I also wouldn't recommend harnessing to a plunger-pin style QR shackle as in Zloty's pic. I had one jam on my sailboat that was used as a genoa shackle, and that was enough to convince me not to trust them on a kite harness.

It's pretty generally accepted by kitesurfers that the Wichard #2673 is THE one to trust to open reliably under load around sand and saltwater (and even there the debate rages on). Attached is a photo of my latest set-up, with 1/2 of a stainless ring TIG welded on to larkshead my leash to. It's pretty much the same as the Chicken Release at http://www.embado.com/kitesurfkit/chickenrelease/features.ht...

I prefer the closed loop stainless thimbles on my depower line. The large diameter minimizes metal wear releases cleaner than any rope or tubing will. With handles and a strop, I shackle through a large Holt Allen #1375 snatch block.

krumly

Well I don't know about jam with this one.If You using old gear expect it to fail.I use it now for over a Year riding few times a week and it is my second one as first went bad with teflon wheel from strop making a notch in it after 11 months . I did never had a problem with it and I did release it few times with no problems.I also know few people that do hardcore freestyle and using this kind of setup.I would strongly recommend it if You are feeling comfy with being hooked in.Most of my wipeouts where actually with out this block by other setups failure. One more think to remember to have knots larger so they don't stuck in block as it will loop Your kite in no time .I mod some of my handless so they don't have tails with knots(strop goes in to the handle.I also cut off little of block rubber as strop will make notch in it.

Good point about large knots at the strop ends, Zloty. I usually have a small Delrin stopper ball at each end that the knots seat into, just to be sure nothing can press fit into the sheave.

FWIW, the shackle that jammed on my headsail was a Wichard piston shackle, but not the #2673. With its open SS wire spring bail, there's not much that sand or crap can do to jam it as far as I can tell. I'm sure keeping any shackle clean and dry lubed will help, along with regular replacement.

As a crude test, I hung from a static line in my harness and bounced while pulling the safety on both shackles. The #2673 felt like it released more easily, but I'll admit it was a subjective test. A couple folks have mentioned in kiteforum where they have broken the welded split ring on a piston shackle under load, preventing release.

In any case, I love the shackle setup in lieu of chicken loops w/ a bar 'cuz the bar's in closer and I can set it up for more throw. Very nice with PL kites.

krumly

NPW, I have to agree with the others on this topic. I admire your ingenuity but a failed safety release is worse than non at all.

Go without or go with a wichard.

The forces that will be exerted on the device when you are in a panic situation will not be equivalent to any test you run - nor will your panic levels.

Its a good idea you have but there is no price to personal safety or the safety of those around you.

Quote:

Originally posted by NPWfever And it has more of a tendency to fall apart then get stuck.

I kind of thought it would fall apart to ! That's not something you want a safety to do.
I was also a bit confused. I thought you were making this instead of a proper spreader bar and harness. Lots of folks ride with just a strop and spreader bar. I'ld avoid jumping without a Q.R. but to hook in with just a strop and extend your fly time can still be a pretty safe option.
Hey, you have figured out how to make your own wing and buggy. You are going to figure out a lot of stuff and make your dream happen. Making a safety that is weak is not time well spent compared to your other stuff !

Looking at the pics again, I also suspect I'd snap the loops on the harness and strop end first outing. Are you using a rope with pipe insulation as a harness?

Once again, creative, but maybe not the safest method. I've also used a standard hook style harness with a loop of rope and a pulley, make the loop big enough to slide on and off the hook easily, then you release by simply pulling towards you and taking off the tension, the loop falls off your harness automatically, much safer than something that may self destruct mid air.

Keep it up though, I'd suggest as Ken said, put your creative side to stuff where it'll be better used, buy proper safety gear.


And remember, some famous people started out being creative.

http://www.sobb.us/images_2003/images/eli_on_his_first_buggy...

And yes my harness is rope with pipe insulation. LOL:D

Doood is that ur buggy? Its better looking than mine. Mine is like a demonic big wheel. :evil:

Nope, I do believe that was Eli's first buggy, He's got way sweeter stuff now, here's my buggy.

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f201/targo88/PabsBuggyKite...

or the infamous lake shot

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f201/targo88/Pabsand13m_1....

Those are some pretty sexy pics! I want a not crappy ass buggy but I dont have enough $. I have been trying to order my pansh ace 8 meter but it wont go through and i went to try today and the price went up $30!!!! F***ING A!!!!!! i am so pissed, now i have to pay an extra $30 just cuz their system sucks. Like if u use a credit card u have to use internet explorer and i have a mac and the new version doesnt work on macs! AHAHAHHHHAAAH i love my mac but the whole world functions on PC's and I cant function with them. WAAAHHH!!

sorry, another one of my tourettes moments (and i actually do have tourettes :ticking: so i am allowed to say that), but its not screaming profanities, or massive arm movements, (that would make kiting really hard) its just like face ticks (kinda like my buddy up there) YAY! i love TS its like a magical cloak that makes me impervious to getting in trouble! (yep thats right, south park refrence) yep i went there. LOL!

Lets see what else did i want to say.... Oh yes can you put a pansh on a bar (i am gonna get a proper QR and harness for snowkiting) and then i can use my harness for kitesurfing (thats why i want to switch to bar, when i go out back east next summer i am going to try) also can you kitesurf on a lake? Like if i used my 8 meter and a homemade board (one of the plywood ones) its a really tiny lake, like 100 meters one way and 300 the other way (its a windsurfing lake) I would still have to see if they would let me though.

Do a search for the Cross Over bar setup, easy to make, costs next to nothing and will work for any foil with a little adjusting. usually about a 5 min trial and error session to get it dialed in.

I actually made a bar out of an old aluminum tube (off of a wind chime) don't worry its strong enough (i hung from my rafters with it) it also has some 1/2 pvc inside to further reinforce it. And I drilled a hole and put in an insert so the metal doesn't fray the line, and some paracord on the ends. Should take me a good hour to figure out the lines tho cuz its a total redo (i have a general idea of what i want to do) but it will take some time (thats for my NPW, should be easier on the pansh)