I think this is the ticket, no?

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/produc...

Yes indeed!

What is the learning curve like on doom wheels compared to a buggy or landboard? I could put a set of these together on a saturday morning it looks like. And what about power requirements. I imagine it takes a little less power than a landboard?

Generally speaking, buggying is easier for many, though the basic principles are the same. Some folks prefer to sit and go whereas kiteskating involves more setup time and uses more of your body.

The difference between skating and landboarding depends on your previous experience. Those who ride boards a lot may find boarding easier, however, everyone either knows how to skate or ski - both similar to kiteskating.

Either way, the learning curve is quick. You should have the basics down in an afternoon.

Regarding kite size... Of course this depends on the available wind, but I suggest start small and size-up as you build experience. Start with a 3m in 13+ wind.

Launch with your wheels pointing directly downwind and then turn both kite and skates in the same direction as the kite rises. Bring the kite overhead to slow. Turn the skates sharp upwind to stop. Check http://www.doomwheels.com for more tips.

Good luck building your skates and welcome to kiteskating!

Ok- I have to be different and ask- why doesn't anyone use the 12.5 inch bike wheels that come on kids bikes? Maybe because the way I have figured out to do it requires welding? So anyone in the SF Bay area that can recomend a welder who can mig or tig up a 4130 steel frame?
I am completely open about these plans by the way. I think these might be prety fast and stable at speed but I am not seeing much in comercial potential.

My plan involves using a skateboard blank as a deck, and bolting rollerblade brand type boots to it (they have a nice bolt on attachment to the frame). the 4130 molly tubing is joined in a ladder config with 4 1/4 in mild steel straps welded to the top of the tube in such a way as the steel plate can be bolted flush to the deck on the underside - the boot bolts go through 2 of these per skate. This may need a triangle of steel plate tapering from the from the tip of the tube to the deck but I am not sure yet. the ends of the tubes are then flattened and slotted so that the wheel angle can be changed from straight if needed.

What I have found out so far - these kid bikes are very cheap at garage sales- I scored a barbie special for three bucks- but converting the back wheels to front can be tough- I can't find a source for these little 16 hole hubs anywhere- or the spokes- but spokes can be cut to length and I may convert my back wheels by using 32 hole hubs (use every other hole or drill the rim for twice as many). (I have 2 sets of wheels). In my opinion the good wheels on these have steel rims- some of the newer bikes use plastic but I am not sure that is good in an aviation app (I may speed ride with these as well - you know- the small paragliders). Some of the jogging strollers have nice looking 12 inch alloy wheels but I don't want to buy 4 strollers to score a set. Besides- I actually think i am going to like the steel rims if I can get this welded up.
So- anyone local to me with a mig or tig rig want to partner up to come up with 2 pairs of these?

maybe i should leave the coaster brake on one and see if I can hook it up to the old skate brake attachment- not sure of this yet.... looks like I need more travel for that than is available.

Some kids bike wheels will work - I don't like spokes so advise using the plastic rims. They will last longer and won't rust when used at the beach.

Commercial potential? There are a couple manufactures that sell downhill or offroad skates. Two or so of them advertise use with kites, but no, I don' think anyone will get rich from making kiteskates. I offer these DIY plans as a low cost way of making your own.

Using skateboard decks as skates? Interesting, but may be difficult to turn. Good luck.

plastic, no rust and lighter is the way to go.

macboy I got the exact set of from "mike's bikes" ebay for $5 each.

the set up comes with the low speed bearings as those from NT, definitely upgrade if your clocking alot time on them. the 8" set up i posted are MBS wheel pulling double duty on the board too.

The skateboard deck is just a good mechaincal hookup to the subframe which is the attachment point to the wheels and should contibute nothing to the turning charachteristics.
I just like the material (laminate maple ply) and it is very reasonable- I can buy a skateboard blank large enough to cut up for 2 skates for around 15 bucks I think.
thanks

What do you recommend for upgraded bearings?

I bought the NT wheels and the bearings are not sealed. Everything seems to get into the bearing.
I'd like to use them on the beach and anything you can recommend that will keep sand out and tips on how to prevent rusting will be appreciated.

Don
Skis, hockey skates, kite skates, Paraski-Flex, Peter Lynn Phantom 12, Phantom 15 and Venom 13 plus doom wheels.

GO to VBX bearings, don't remember to size. regular sealed are a good start. water will eventually kill them if they are kept dry they last a season easy.

the low speed bearings have a flange (i think) you may need that for the seat.
the low speed will last about 25-hours much less if they get wet or heavily loaded with sand /dirt.

mic the axle and the wheel hub to get the size

I bought the Northern Wheels as well and threw out the bearings. Bought some ABEC 1 sealed bearings from McMaster Carr that were a light press into the nylon wheel/rim. VXB is probably cheaper for bearings. Also made some tubular ss compression spacers to so the bearings don't bind when you tighten them up on the axle bolts.

krumly