does anyone use this setup when running stropped

http://www.kitepower.com.au/catalog/product_16806_Wichard_Sn...

just curios about the release on this setup its a piston release not a quick release will that make a big difference on how it will release

I am just using 1/4 inch gray amesteel line with my HQ seat harness. No need for a quick release, just drop handles and everything flies away. Atleast untill the slack in the kite killers is taken up, then kite falls to ground in big heap.

That is definitely the wrong kind of release, you want a witchard. I have a line on the snatch block, if everyone want one I'll get the price and free shipping.

Quote:

Originally posted by WolfWolfee That is definitely the wrong kind of release, you want a witchard. I have a line on the snatch block, if everyone want one I'll get the price and free shipping.

I think the picture just shows how the snatch comes loose so you can load the strop line in... The quick release has the white line and the stopper ball attached to it.

I'm no expert, but this looks like a pretty good quick release. Expensive... but good. Other setups I have seen seem a bit bulky, but this one looks pretty good.

don't like pistons myself, they tend to get stuck if not brand new and perfectly maintained.

Quote:

Originally posted by csa_deadon I am just using 1/4 inch gray amesteel line with my HQ seat harness. No need for a quick release, just drop handles and everything flies away. Atleast untill the slack in the kite killers is taken up, then kite falls to ground in big heap.

I don't understand -- how can you just drop handles and go to killers if you have some kind of attachment to your harness? :puzzled:

your description sounds just like what I do when flying unhooked? :puzzled:

Have strop line connecting handles.
Have strop line hook in to the spreader bar on the harness.

Takes the pressure off your arms just the same. The only drawback is, occassionaly the line will drop off the spreader bar. Which is no biggy.

That shackle is quick release. This does not mean that it will release under load. It was designed to be faster to move than a screw shackle, not to be an emergency release. Wichard does make a shackle which is designed to release unload; this is not it.

S

CSA,

Deezpanshes is looking at a " captive system " . I'm not fond of the set-up but many people think it's the only way to go . That is to say they are always hooked in and must pull a ( wichard ) pin or release the snatch block to get away from the kite.

You and I just flop in and out of the hammer head on our spreader bar. I have made small Q.R. releases for my strop using the DIY god thread. The big danger of the way we hook in is if we forget to push out before releasing to K.K. the death spiral usually follows !

I have had a look at that type of release and while it would be better than nothing, I believe it is false security. The piston type of release would require constant attention, especially if used in sand. The real problem, IMHO is actually the shape of the bail. When fully opened it still has some what of a hook shape to it that doesn't look like it would release cleanly under a load, especially if the load is pulling at an extreme angle. If things are going so badly that I need cut loose from my sail, I want something that I don't have to fiddle with and that I know will work when I need it to.

I have not tried it yet, but I am going to take the d-loop off a bar and connect it to the handles. I have it done already ... just waiting for wind to try it. This way I will have the safety release of the d-loop (same safety as a chicken loop)

Quote:

Originally posted by DAKITEZ I have not tried it yet, but I am going to take the d-loop off a bar and connect it to the handles. I have it done already ... just waiting for wind to try it. This way I will have the safety release of the d-loop (same safety as a chicken loop)

I know Spelio' does this. I have always figured my D-loops from a kitesurf bar will be too short ? It looks like Spelio's is a longer windsurf one ???

Please let us know how it works !!!!

I was wondering about this myself, Dakitez. Could you post a pic for those of us who don't have or haven't flown with a bar? Do you still use a block with that set up?

There's a guy on my beach who does that, works ok but his range of motion is limited from what I can tell.

I've got a similar setup; it work ok but it's not my favorite. If I'm not hooked in it's hard to sometimes hard to dig the block out of my crotch and hook in which means you pretty much need to hook in before you sit down and stay hooked. Once you unhook you pretty much need to stop and reset. I've also noticed that if I use the qr to unhook then I've got a block flapping in my face; only been hit once Also one thing to be aware of is that the block and connector add length between your harness and where the lines attach. doesn't seem like a big deal but the more length from you and the harness to the strop attachment, then shorter the stop need to be; which just means a limited range of motion. So the shorter you can make the attachment point to the stop the better.

I've seen some spreader bars with a curved piece of plastic, but I've seen that it just frays the strop like crazy and they don't close the line in, it's just line pressure. For some reason I haven't seen a spreader with a real pulley. I think overall I'd prefer a spreader with a built in horizontal winchard-style pulley + qr. ?

I've seen something like what you are talking about, arkay. I think it was a Dutch site with spottty English translation and the prices for the good stuff was like $300 and up. I think I'd rather spend the cash on more Kites

Quote:

Originally posted by Scudley That shackle is quick release. This does not mean that it will release under load. It was designed to be faster to move than a screw shackle, not to be an emergency release. Wichard does make a shackle which is designed to release unload; this is not it. S

Here is the Wichard 2673 Quick release that will release under load. the release trigger cord is tied to bight colored bandana that can be easily grabbed blind.
It is coupled with a Holt Allen Block (West Marine part # HA4475/1, shown with the cheek in the open postion to receive the strop (then snap shut). The block had a hinge pin riveted permanently in place, but it was easy to drill off the rivet head and remove the pin. Then put the quick-pin of the same diamer (also West Marine) back into the block, engaging the sqivel eye of the Wichard QR.

This puts the strop only 3" or less from my harness hook.

This was inspired by a post by Brad Rex with a similar rig.

Another view connected to spreader bar and with strop in and block cheek closed.
The way the trigger line is oriented, the safety has to be pulled from the side or outward, not toward you. This turns out OK because the rig is so close to the body it iseasier to pull to the side or away than it is to pull in.

Yanky the Hanky and no more Cranky

Has anybody here tried the slingshot surefire spreader bar?

On paper, it looks great, and seems to be less clutter than any of the other setups I have seen.

Just wondering if anyone has used one?

That's what I got too. But mine is opposite, I just release the block not the wichard too. Look on fleabay for wichard

Here is what i am going to try. Overall length is 24" ... minus 4 " for the QR ... so 20" of usable length. You can see in one of the pics. the QR is shorter than the standard strope bridle on the handles. The length seems just right for me, but I won't know for sure till I give it a true test. This is not to take away from bbrex or acampbell's setup as their setup is the best IMHO. This is just something I want to try.

Thanks for the pics, Dakitez. I would like to know how this works for you. I too would like the wichard set up but right at the moment it's a little cost prohibitive. I was going to set it up like weldngod- ditch the block not the whole assembly. I don't want to keep dropping a $100+ qr in the sand. I realize that it would be a stop and reset assembly but to my mind if it's time to cut loose from my rig then I am probably having bigger problems. Not a lot of experience here but that is what seems like it would be the best for me. This is like any other sport where one's personal safety is at stake- fit, comfort, and functionality to the user is what will pay off when things go wrong.

If you are still learning to fly you are far better off avoiding a captive system until you get used to being hooked in under all situations !
I have flown a few years now and with my clumsy style I still NEED to get unhooked to recover from my crazy mistakes.

I have home built some Q.R.'s like the one on the end of the D loop Datkitez shows. I put them one one end of a typical rope strop.

I see you are running the D loop on a roller. I'm wondering how they slide on a typical hammerhead ?

Deez, this is why you have never seen me strapped in yet. I myself prefer to be strapped and belted down but I do some insane stuff and careful when and who I do it with.
I've been around along time and had the bumps and bruises etc. I use to fly stuff that had no names..lol. I try to ride to a level were everyone is learning and no one gets hurt. This year it will be backward, two wheel and then start some bunny hops.
Remember what it was like when you finally stropped in, a huge door opened and what a great feeling to get that pressure of your arms.
I've got a line on all the right stuff to set you up here locally. So we'll get your rigging set up right the first time.

B , I have to say captive is the only way I can fly half the time running pretty powered up in a Flexi and now I am getting pretty good time in the air. I use to want to go fast now its how high and how much ground can you cover...lol
I actually have my witchard setup with a lead running to my lap belt than when it releases it drops the belt and I'm buggy and kite free.
I am really getting into the depower with the Sabre now tweaked up and a 16M Scorpion on its way.
Time will tell.

looky what I found , This is a deal .
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Wichard-Stainless-Quick-Relea...

ya I seen that but its used

For SURE Wolfee,

A great many people think captive is the only way to go! Usually way better fliers than me !

There is a time and a few good reasons to go captive but I'm happy flopping in and out ! Just like You soon. I'm usually on a chicken loop now!

With my Reactor 10.8m, you really have to be captive. Anything above 5 mph and it becomes too hard to hold on to, and upwind in anything, forget it.

DAKITEZ i have used a D-loop with pin release, it works fine, a pulley would sweeten it for sure. seemed a little short but works great for cruise N and rest

but i never used the release ..any old scrap of rope seemed to work fine too, eventually the knots get in the way after it breaks

it all breaks eventually

I can't fly my 9m Blade for more than about 5 min unhooked. I DON'T need to be captive to handle it, just hooked in. I'm not clear why captive is better than hooked in Angus ???

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Originally posted by acampbell With my Reactor 10.8m, you really have to be captive. Anything above 5 mph and it becomes too hard to hold on to, and upwind in anything, forget it.

In this case I was thinking of either captive or hooked in.

But if pressed for the difference, I think with just hooking in with a strop and roller or hook, it is real hard to un-hook when you need to the most- such as under load of acceleration or being lifted.

That said, it's nice be able to hook if for an upwind leg and un-hook for downwind where the added range of motion is useful.

I think Dakitez's approach is smart since it will let go under load AND lets you hook and un-hook.