Yeah, I've played that situation in my head and worried that I would not slide and end up with the buggy tangled into the lines. I will experiment a little in more manageable speeds before I try it in emergency. I might try an s turn as well. Turning slightly into the kite and then turn up wind while pulling the kite out of power zone. That has worked for me somewhat on my fb.

When in motion and with decent wind is when the term depower really applies.

When running with the kite at the edge of the window pulling the bar in drops the kite back a bit and creates a real power boost. Pushing it out sets the kite farther forward and spills more wind .

Flying in a sine pulling the bar in as you dive down each time helps generate power and speed.

When you feel over powered getting the kite low , to the edge and turning upwind is a safe way of slowing down although it feels scary.

Set the trim so a bar fully in will slightly backstall the kite. Then use the depower range if the bar to turn the power up or down as you get moving. There will be a bar position that feels like you are getting all you can from the kite. Adjust slightly to see if a little more or a little sheeting in of the bar is better.

Many of my videos are running with depower and you can see how I have the trim set and how I'm working the bar for the current situation.

Wow some good info in this thread for the arc newbs like myself. Wait a minute... I need wind first to even be a newb. Bwaaaahahaha. My wind looks poo poo through Sunday again.

Sorry bud I know you have been itching to get out there.

I also want to say thanks for the info.. I've been pretty quiet because I'm traveling in Bladerunner's country right now.

Thanks, great tips. Can't wait to try them when I get some wind.

There will also be adjustments done for different conditions like wind speed, angle you are traveling, size of kite and how much power you like to ride with, and adjustments for personal comfort.
In lighter wind it's always better to have kite speed first - so adjust so that you don't choke the power and slow the kite down too much when pulling in the bar. You might find as you start working the kite to get rolling you could pull the bar in a bit more before it just starts to stall but I may adjust the trim slightly so that you don't even have a hint of that ability to slow down on the kite. It's better to really work the kite up to speed, the apparent wind kicks in and now you can adjust the trim a bit more.
When the wind is at an angle to the beach and you are working a bit upwind one way and downwind the other. I might be using a bigger sized kite so upwind I have it trimmed for less power to get the kite as far out front as possible and then downwind adding as much power as possible so that I don't outrun the kite and also using a bigger kite and running downwind i can have it to max power.
Running on the dry lake and running a kite in the 8-12m size and going totally lit I find at the once you work all the angles of wind and change direction a bit and work up more speed etc - when you are powered and angling upwind a bit you can have your arm fully extended and bar out and that kite is still traveling fast and as you angle upwind there is still a lot of pressure until you come upwind enough to slowdown. So there are times when you can be riding with the bar in and times when the bar is out and you still have the same power but that's generally when you have a lot of room to run - works the same kite skiing fully powered.
For personal comfort there are times when I'm riding and find that I am working the bar a little and maybe pulling it in so that it's 4-5 inches from the chicken loop and that's where the sweet spot is for max speed but I realize I'm holding bar pressure. So at times like this I may adjust my trim to slightly de-power a bit that means that sweet spot is now closer to bar fully in and puts my arms as a slightly more relaxed angle not needing to hold the pressure further out.
Line length changes it as well. Being able to run long distances with a GPS/speedometer visible for current speed is a nice way to see how different things change the speed. At times when you think adding more pressure helps to boost speed often slows it down a bit.
I was telling Jason it's better to be on the side of kite speed first - setting slightly light. You can always add power but if you start off choking or stalling the kite you might be frustrated and not understanding why you aren't moving as good as you think you should be.

This thread has been very helpful in confirming my decision to fly foils. :P

I think it takes me about 3 minutes to get my kite in the air on a very bad day.

Regarding Montanas and the nosedive crumple in light or twisty wind. I added about 5mm to the A bridal cascade on my Montana III 9.5 to bring the leading edge of the kite up just slightly. It made almost no noticeable affect to the performance of the kite other than to prevent the thing flipping over in gusts or vorticies. I have a 9 M Montana 7 now so I may be interested in letting this kite go if anyone is interested.

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[quote by Phreerider] now back to the wildcat thread show,