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Author: Subject: Great trick learned for arc users
PHREERIDER
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[*] posted on 15-1-2009 at 12:20 PM


close on the bar end/knots backline leader (flipped)

the lark is open, showing the ability to slide the knotted line super easy

0115091308a.jpg - 231kB



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[*] posted on 15-1-2009 at 12:28 PM


Interesting thread...nice and simple setup PR.

Hey FB...did you think about posting this question to the arcusers group...I wonder if this concept has been tried before or if someone has come up with a workable solution (other than PR's)?



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[*] posted on 15-1-2009 at 07:19 PM


I'll see about posting it on the arc users group - never have gone on to that site but should be very informative.

Thanks PHREERIDER, I'll definitely give that a try - nice and simple. The concept that I had laid out was just an idea - yeah it would be cumbersome and probably not a good idea to have chunks of metal flying around on my bar, but just a concept - that has now changed over to something usable.

I talked to DAKITEZ today and he says he may have some extra sheeting straps that he will let me try this idea out with later. But I will be setting up my bar with the mod that PHREERIDER has posted - I'll let you know how it works for me.



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[*] posted on 17-1-2009 at 04:53 PM


Phreerider's idea is slick - might have to change the Airrush bar ends on my GII over to that, and ditch the pigtails with knots up at the kite.

Now really, what ya need is a longer depower strap, and a way to be sure all the extra strap end when pulled in doesn't end up flapping all over.

I'm not enamored with v-cleats or the mini clam cleats idea. My PKD handles have those for the brakes, and as slick as they are, the line pops out too often. I'm ready to switch to knots.

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[*] posted on 3-3-2009 at 04:29 PM


Instead of adjusting the outside/bottom lines, use a clamcleat just above the chicken line. Adjust the top lines, not the bottom. We are just talking about differences between the the top and bottom lines, right?

I'll take picture of the setup I have on one of my bars at home. The cleat has never slipped, and it is used in the water. It will save you alot of trouble, IMHO.

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[*] posted on 3-3-2009 at 08:48 PM


Thanks - I have been wrestling with an option that isn't too obtrusive and can be done on the fly instead of having to land the kite to adjust - gusty conditions don't usually wait for you to get setup.



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[*] posted on 4-3-2009 at 08:29 PM


Thought I had posted this last night...sorry.

http://www.pbase.com/geokite/cleat
The pictures show the bar setup. I think there is a similar/exact setup over at at the arcusers forum. Adjusting it is a two handed operation; one to pull/release the free line, another to make sure (push) it is in the cleat. Bungee and cordlock to hold excess slack if needed.

Hope that helps.
Steve
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[*] posted on 4-3-2009 at 11:18 PM


Quote:
Originally posted by geokite
Instead of adjusting the outside/bottom lines, use a clamcleat just above the chicken line. Adjust the top lines, not the bottom. We are just talking about differences between the the top and bottom lines, right?

I'll take picture of the setup I have on one of my bars at home. The cleat has never slipped, and it is used in the water. It will save you alot of trouble, IMHO.

Steve


I agree, I use a Naish Smartloop SLE bar on my 12m Phantom and although I'm not a big fan of a below the bar cam cleat it does give a huge range without having to land the kite to make adjustments. having an extra long depower throw and a stopper is pretty nice too. I think I could comfortably ride suicide with such a long throw.



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